Not the ordinary "best lock" question: gettin' dirty!

elkins45

elkins45

Joined
Jun 17, 2006
Messages
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So what's the best lock type for use under really dirty, muddy conditions? I was using a Manix 2 to open bags of wet peat and topsoil when I noticed the lock area was rapidly filling up with crud.

That started me to ponder which lock type is better able to resist getting filled up with dirt and not malfunction or wear out from repeated abrasion. Other than the ZT 0500 MUDD of course, since they are discontinued and are way too bulky for me as an EDC.

Which lock would you choose if your knife was destined to get really dirty and muddy?
 
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I'd guess the ZT MUDD or whatever it was called will be the most popular answer.
 
I think the frame lock would be the best under the worst conditions.
 
I think that the backlock would work fairly well, since when it's locked, theres not much room for dirt to get in.
BUT
if dirt does get in there, It's going to be much harder to get it out again compared to a liner/framlock
 
Here's a quick wet sand lockup on a Umnumzaan :)

While it does not lock up great when packed with wet sand, just a little bath and she was good to go.

[YouTube]7oi-aAoIAC4[/YouTube]
 
The best lock if you are panning to get it dirty? That would be no lock and just get a fixed blade. Then, all your troubles worrying about the lock go byebye.
 
Framelock seems a nice option or the rotoblock from Opinel.
Fixed blade, yeah... maybe it's out of question, but a small neck knife does wonderful things!
 
Ankerson, nailed it with the frame lock. It's the easiest to clean and has only 2 parts total only 1 of which is really considered moving.
 
framelock.

The nice part is that most locks would get wedged in the open position rather than closing unexpectedly.
 
phaserrifle said:
I think that the backlock would work fairly well, since when it's locked, theres not much room for dirt to get in.
BUT
if dirt does get in there, It's going to be much harder to get it out again compared to a liner/framlock
Click to expand...

Back lock would be the worst by far. All it would take is a little grime where the lock catches the tang, and the knife wouldn't lock. You could also easily get grime where the lock bar hinges if the knife was locked and open, wrecking it that way. That's been my experience when using a backlock for really grimy stuff.
 
I'd agree with everyone else that said framelock......not much you can't clean out with H2o.
 
This is precisely why I got rid of most of my Axis locks. It's a pain to clean it, and it "voids" the warranty if you want to do a thorough job.
 
framelock.

OTOH, the ZT 0500 mudd is the EDC of a friend of mine, and he loves it. it is not that bad for EDC. if you prefer not to use it, then whatever. however, it is the best.
 
[Youtube]Snz5IIIeAQ4[/youtube]

There are other videos if this one isn't convincing enough. I've gotten my AXIS locks pretty dirty, though nothing like the video, without anything bad except a gritty sound when the blade moved. I would expect that with any lock as long as the blade moves.

I'm also curious why a framelock is going to automatically get wedged in the open position? I have had a couple fail and they do so by the lock walking to the unlocked position and closing. I don't see a reason why a framelock only will 'fail' to the locked open position?
 
With my limited experience so far is a framelock and the Axis lock. Been covered in mud and dried out blood of deer without issues. Both would engage again, though they might have required a bit more forceful opening just to make sure for solid lockup (according to me at least but both kept on engaging). Blood can be a PITA if it feels like it. Back locks down fall is pocket lint or something getting in the engagement area. In my experience one just needed to shake it a bit or rinse with water and it was fine. Liner locks and mud dont seem to mix. If sand gets between the scale and the liner it will affect the unlocking of the knife.

However if you want a knife to function no matter how much crud gets into it and it has to be a folder.....look into friction folders. It can take a pounding and still function correctly and gunk and crud cant affect the lockup unless it affects your hand.

Here are a few I am interested in by custom maker Peter Steyn. He uses G10 and natural materials and is a great guy to deal with. (pictures were taken from his FB page), he is also on his way to blade for those that are going.

182870_164226153628542_100001234744336_375062_3496617_n.jpg


182870_164226156961875_100001234744336_375063_5600853_n.jpg


182870_164226160295208_100001234744336_375064_3538200_n.jpg


227153_188573997860424_100001234744336_531482_5028297_n.jpg


elkins45 said:
So what's the best lock type for use under really dirty, muddy conditions? I was using a Manix 2 to open bags of wet peat and topsoil when I noticed the lock area was rapidly filling up with crud.

That started me to ponder which lock type is better able to resist getting filled up with dirt and not malfunction or wear out from repeated abrasion. Other than the ZT 0500 MUDD of course, since they are discontinued and are way too bulky for me as an EDC.

Which lock would you choose if your knife was destined to get really dirty and muddy?
Click to expand...

I have to ask, did the Manix 2 keep on engaging after it had some crud in it?
 
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