Finally after compiling threads, schematics, parts lists, and whatever else I could find over the past year I feel that I am semi educated enough to build my oven. Almost all electrical from auber, a switch for on/off for controller, and a 2 pole breaker to kill the power to --both-- 220 legs of the elements. So no need to turn everything off, just flip the breaker, do whatcha gotta do and throw the breaker to power up the elements again. This also covers the fuse that goes on those legs. Getting my bricks from a local source. I am sure it might be a hair cheaper elsewhere, but why take the chance of buying a bunch and have em arrive broken. I am payin $32.50 for a box of 10 3"ers. High temp wire and connectors from Mcmaster, $7 a foot for 14/2 842deg rated stuff. Of course I will dig this thread up next week and post pics...
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Nother HT oven build...
- Thread starter gixxer
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Looking forward to it! It was fun building mine, and it took me about a week of nights to get it finished. Have fun!
One thing, you may still want to run inline fuses in front of the PID. It won't take many amps to fry that thing...much less than what your breaker will be rated for. The breaker's a great idea in case something goes wrong, but it wont protect your PID from a surge.
--nathan
One thing, you may still want to run inline fuses in front of the PID. It won't take many amps to fry that thing...much less than what your breaker will be rated for. The breaker's a great idea in case something goes wrong, but it wont protect your PID from a surge.
--nathan
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Noooooooooo! Do it as a WIP please.... We all wanna see it progress
Oh definately I have a 1A fuse planned. I am installing a pair of buss bars in my controller box and the breaker is turning the power off -only- to the elements on both legs. The PID gets its own fuses and switch. So when I plug the whole thing in I still have the switch to power up the PID only.
Alright Fletch I will do a WIP. Hey, what you kill this year? I am still getting my monster 6 dialed in and either way got skunked this year, hit the public land real hard but no bueno. I really need to get one of those torqueless grips.
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I unfortunately haven't gotten out as much as I would have liked to. I think I only made it out about 10-15 days. Wound up with 2 does and a fox. I guess considering the times I've been out that's not a bad success ratio
. With proper form you really don't need a torqueless grip. Before they stared making the grips thinner on bows there were a lot of pro shooters that would take their grips off the bow all together.
So all items are paid for except the bricks. Go to pick them up on Tuesday.
I ended up getting my high temp wire and connectors from Duralite too with the element, I figure the difference in price is not as bad as paying for shipping for the cheaper wire from Mcmaster. So, i did save a buck or two. Got DPST switch, fuses and fuse holders for PID from MPJA.com. They have a lot of crap for pretty cheap. They are also a couple hours away so when I order something I pretty much get it next day if I order first thing in the morn.
Side note. MPJA sells those variable transformers that go up to 130V for 50 bucks. Those of you that are thinking about anodizing Ti this is the way to go. They sell the bridge rectifiers too to get it to DC. search the forums for a how do you do it and then do it! But that is a completely new thread for my first folder.
I ended up getting my high temp wire and connectors from Duralite too with the element, I figure the difference in price is not as bad as paying for shipping for the cheaper wire from Mcmaster. So, i did save a buck or two. Got DPST switch, fuses and fuse holders for PID from MPJA.com. They have a lot of crap for pretty cheap. They are also a couple hours away so when I order something I pretty much get it next day if I order first thing in the morn.
Side note. MPJA sells those variable transformers that go up to 130V for 50 bucks. Those of you that are thinking about anodizing Ti this is the way to go. They sell the bridge rectifiers too to get it to DC. search the forums for a how do you do it and then do it! But that is a completely new thread for my first folder.
Ordered my quick release shop vise for plate quenching from Grizzly, got the 7 incher.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Quick-Release-Vise-7-Jaw/G9850
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Quick-Release-Vise-7-Jaw/G9850
Just got back from Superior Brick, I think I got a deal. 20 3" bricks, 1 gal of high temp cement, plus tax out the door $80. Those of you in the Tampa area looking to get some bricks even if it one or two that works out to be $3.25 a brick for the 3"ers. Call Bill @ 813 855 7122. They are not open on the weekends.
I got packages this week! I am waiting on the foil and vise. Tomorrow it is time for dry fitting and measuring. I need an extension cord to cannibalize, some random stainless nuts and bolts, a hinge, and off to the metal supermarket on the way to work for steel angle. If all goes well I will post pics of the mock up on Saturday.
You know when you have to go back three pages to get to your thread maybe That means I am working too slow! Got out the element, stretched it to a couple inches over the minimum(I got the 3000w 240v element, stretched it to 140, the min is 130) BEFORE REALLY MEASURING! got ahead of myself a little, but after laying everything out it will fall into place. Blind luck. Heh, you shouldve seen my wife holding onto the other end while I was pulling! She was so afraid it was gonna come back and smack her upside the head! Too funny.
My annular space is 15" deep, 4" tall, and a whole brick across minus 1/2" whatever that is (9"?). I spent majority of the day cutting the bricks on the table saw. SO EASY. all bottom and top center bricks got 1/4" notches in them cause I have seen other folks do it. Supports the top bricks, guess I did not have to do it on the bottom. Oh well. A little measuring, the elements are 3/8" dia so a couple sharpie marks, cut every brick on top and bottom before moving the fence, and everything lines up. I used my fingers to break off the wafer of brick left where the element goes, and clean it up with a round rasp. very easy to get carried away there, things happen fast. I kinda got into the groove so I only have three pics of bricks in various configurations. I made sure to number the bricks so they go back in the right order, and I also took pics of them to make sure.
One thing I noticed is these bricks are not perfectly square. I have gaps here and there. Anyhow tomorrow I start cutting and welding steel angle. Still need to come up with a plan for the door hinge. More pics tomorrow of something substantial besides bricks.
Here they are getting the slots cut
The slots line up!!
My annular space is 15" deep, 4" tall, and a whole brick across minus 1/2" whatever that is (9"?). I spent majority of the day cutting the bricks on the table saw. SO EASY. all bottom and top center bricks got 1/4" notches in them cause I have seen other folks do it. Supports the top bricks, guess I did not have to do it on the bottom. Oh well. A little measuring, the elements are 3/8" dia so a couple sharpie marks, cut every brick on top and bottom before moving the fence, and everything lines up. I used my fingers to break off the wafer of brick left where the element goes, and clean it up with a round rasp. very easy to get carried away there, things happen fast. I kinda got into the groove so I only have three pics of bricks in various configurations. I made sure to number the bricks so they go back in the right order, and I also took pics of them to make sure.
One thing I noticed is these bricks are not perfectly square. I have gaps here and there. Anyhow tomorrow I start cutting and welding steel angle. Still need to come up with a plan for the door hinge. More pics tomorrow of something substantial besides bricks.
Here they are getting the slots cut
The slots line up!!
Cutting those bricks on the table saw makes MOUNTAINS OF DUST! you absolutely have to do this outside unless you have a dust collection system that sucks at mach 7. I was outside my garage, but I made the mistake of keeping the garage door open. Even with a fan on everything got coated like pompeii.
im going to assume that the heating elements do a 180 bend at each end and then go back the other way? If so were are the cutouts for this turn at? i know on my first build i failed to make the turns properly and the coils in the turn always were coming lose and pinning them didnt help.
I bought this stuff from budget casting supply that bonds to the coils and the brick and stops them from moving all about. you welcome to try some of it as i have enough to do like 20 ovens now. the bonding material seems to have no effect on gaining temps as i can hit 2000 still pretty quickly.
I bought this stuff from budget casting supply that bonds to the coils and the brick and stops them from moving all about. you welcome to try some of it as i have enough to do like 20 ovens now. the bonding material seems to have no effect on gaining temps as i can hit 2000 still pretty quickly.
You are right about the pics not having cutouts for the bends. I stopped last night at that point and this morning after trimming some more brick I got the bend cutouts done. I dunno if anybody else has done this but I got the bends to stay in place by heating the elements with the torch and forming it around the cutouts. I did not exactly heat to a specific color, just enough to get things moving. I will post pic later tonight.
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Top of the thread, thread tools, subscribe to this thread. Then go to your userCP, list subscriptions...You're welcome
Fletch I already knew about thread subscriptions, you try finding a thread over at archerytalk two days later!!!!!
Dakota, pardon me for asking this question but did you insert the pins at a 45deg angle?
Here are the elements dry fitted to check for length and such. I had to stretch one end maybe three inches to get around the corner to the middle of the back wall.
Dakota, pardon me for asking this question but did you insert the pins at a 45deg angle?
Here are the elements dry fitted to check for length and such. I had to stretch one end maybe three inches to get around the corner to the middle of the back wall.
yeah i did pins in every concivible method and then some. ultimatly the constant movement is what caused me to redo my original build. my new build i made the slots out of the orginal heating coils kinda like a rasp. that way the new coils would fit 100 % tight. plus i had done my end turns like you have it showing on yours. my new build i slowly hand carved out a curve in the bricks, not having an open end like you have at the edge of brick 15. ill try and post a pic of the turn and the element adhesive
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I also had a lot of movement in my original setup. When I put new coils in about 3 months ago, I made some changes that improved fit.
I carved my grooves with a round rasp that approximated the coil. After I got the groove started, made sure to carve it into the brick so that it was not creating just a slot, but a slot where the bottom of the slot was carved down into the brick and was lower than the opening. So when the coils were put in, they rested down into the slot and were secured. Then I pinned using long U pins going down at 45 degrees. I haven't had trouble since.
IMPORTANT NOTE: when using long pins, make sure they don't touch the shell of the oven, or the shell will be life when the coils are on.
--nathan
I carved my grooves with a round rasp that approximated the coil. After I got the groove started, made sure to carve it into the brick so that it was not creating just a slot, but a slot where the bottom of the slot was carved down into the brick and was lower than the opening. So when the coils were put in, they rested down into the slot and were secured. Then I pinned using long U pins going down at 45 degrees. I haven't had trouble since.
IMPORTANT NOTE: when using long pins, make sure they don't touch the shell of the oven, or the shell will be life when the coils are on.
--nathan