Now here's a sharp knife

He doesnt have to prove anything I was interested in seeing how a different blade shape makes it thru it smart ass
 
Here's the thing, I do lots of abrasive cutting with my knives and I prefer high carbide steels that increase the cost of the knife as a whole pretty significantly. But my experience is that, regardless of steel type, most knives will lose that absolute razor edge just by cutting 10 or 20 linear feet of cardboard and rapidly settle into what most of us would call a working edge, good enough to cut paper cleanly and maybe shave a bit. The working edge is where high carbide, wear resistant steels really start to shine as many will happily keep that working edge through hundreds more linear feet of cardboard with minimal edge degradation. It took me awhile to figure it out, but if I was really determined to keep an absolute razor edge on my knives at all times I would never actually use the steels I'm paying for to their real potential and I might as well just pick less expensive steels. Or I could do everything I need to do with a working edge and let the knife shine with less effort and worry on my part.
 
I think part of the success is using a new unopened phone book and I agree where do you even find one anymore lol
 
Didn't think my edge would cut the phone book. I added unnecessary force, and not only did it cleanly cut. But I now have phone book confetti, and a walk to the hallway for the vacuum.
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Insipid Moniker said:
Here's the thing, I do lots of abrasive cutting with my knives and I prefer high carbide steels that increase the cost of the knife as a whole pretty significantly. But my experience is that, regardless of steel type, most knives will lose that absolute razor edge just by cutting 10 or 20 linear feet of cardboard and rapidly settle into what most of us would call a working edge, good enough to cut paper cleanly and maybe shave a bit. The working edge is where high carbide, wear resistant steels really start to shine as many will happily keep that working edge through hundreds more linear feet of cardboard with minimal edge degradation. It took me awhile to figure it out, but if I was really determined to keep an absolute razor edge on my knives at all times I would never actually use the steels I'm paying for to their real potential and I might as well just pick less expensive steels. Or I could do everything I need to do with a working edge and let the knife shine with less effort and worry on my part.
Click to expand...

You can cut a LOT of cardboard (3000+ feet) and still have a working edge (slices notebook paper) with pretty much any cutlery steel. It depends much more on sharpening than steel. The quick loss of the very high sharpness I like actually led me away from the high carbide steels. Not much point when they still need frequent sharpening to maintain the edge I want.
 
This is very easy to do with even a moderately sharp knife. Try it yourself. I did it easily on a much large cross-section of phone book:

XYZd7Rr.jpg
 
Someone should add the vid of the Rockstead fixed blade going to town on a similar book. It's posted in the Rockstead knowledge thread and it's impressive. I'm not skilled enough to post vids.
 
Don't really get the fuss over this, its much easier than anticipated.

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Even my $4 beater knife will do it.
 
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me2 said:
You can cut a LOT of cardboard (3000+ feet) and still have a working edge (slices notebook paper) with pretty much any cutlery steel. It depends much more on sharpening than steel. The quick loss of the very high sharpness I like actually led me away from the high carbide steels. Not much point when they still need frequent sharpening to maintain the edge I want.
Click to expand...

Really? I cut quite a lot of cardboard daily and can effectively kill the edge on anything from humble 1095 to 154CM within a day or two. Changing edge angle and finish doesn't change the results, either. I'm very curious as to what steels you've used to cut 3,000 linear feet of cardboard and could still slice paper cleanly, or what your sharpening regimen is that grants them this ability.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
Really? I cut quite a lot of cardboard daily and can effectively kill the edge on anything from humble 1095 to 154CM within a day or two. Changing edge angle and finish doesn't change the results, either. I'm very curious as to what steels you've used to cut 3,000 linear feet of cardboard and could still slice paper cleanly, or what your sharpening regimen is that grants them this ability.
Click to expand...
I'm curious as to this too....The only steel I've had stand up to repeated cardboard use is s110v, but I also routinely strop it after a hard days use to maintain its razor edge.

1095, 440, s30v, 154cm will be practically dull after a heavy day of cutting cardboard, and may or may not strop back.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
Really? I cut quite a lot of cardboard daily and can effectively kill the edge on anything from humble 1095 to 154CM within a day or two. Changing edge angle and finish doesn't change the results, either. I'm very curious as to what steels you've used to cut 3,000 linear feet of cardboard and could still slice paper cleanly, or what your sharpening regimen is that grants them this ability.
Click to expand...

Yeah I agree with you: The claims on edge holding are pretty much all over the place... I can't count the number of times I've heard "I used it a lot and never needed to sharpen it..."

Gaston
 
I guess a lot of people still have phone books??? I was not able to find any here or at my parents house.
 
Just asked, and we do not own a phone book.

At first I thought there was no way my knife would do that, but I use a wicked edge at 20 degrees per side on most of my knives.
I would hope they can do that. Curious now.
 
I've done it to settle an argument/provide proof of my sharpening jobs before, it's pretty dang easy.
 
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