Now that's a knife! Anybody interested?

Uncle Bill, Cobalt et al.

I like it , the pound of butter tang (hey I'm from the South), the screws, horn handle, forging and general shape.

But, I still have another question - When one notes that the tang is soft - Is that soft like a Mercedes spring soft? Or, heated and then softened?

I'm really excited about this blade...my wife is too, but kind of in a different way...

As long as the tang is full and handles can be reapplied/changed with screws, then I'm not gonna fret the Kami's artistic ventures. I could always change the handle to fit my own needs easily.

There's gonna be alot of low riding Mercedes in Nepal,

John
 
John, look for the tang to be around Rc27-30.

It has to be heated and forged into shape.

Uncle Bill
 
I agree, John, the Kami's have an excellent record so far in my book.

As for the tang. I don't think you need to worry about bending a half inch piece of steel, forged or not. The fact that it's forged is even better.
 
Cobalt - "Great looking knife" - Don't know, but I wonder if a strong handle might be a little to thick with a 1/2" tang?

------------------



 
Only name for this one is the "Khobalt"

((on second thought the "Khobull"... nah!!!

[This message has been edited by Rusty (edited 02 April 1999).]
 
Cobalt, you is plumb crazy. I'm beginin' to get downright fond of you, boy!
 
Would it be possible to have the tang extended past the handle. This would allow for hammering which would otherwise damage the scales, and of course you could drill a laynard hole in it.

-Cliff
 
Yes, that's possible, Cliff. But you'll have to clear this with Cobalt. He is the design engineer on this project.

Uncle Bill
 
Cliff, great idea. How much exposed? Say like 1/2 inch of the end of the handle?
 
Don't forget to tell the kamis to harden the tang butt!!! I'm serious here.

And just to tease you, Cobalt, are you sure you don't want to go tin chirra ( triple line and double spine )over ang khola ( double line and single spine ) pattern just for that extra bit of toughness? Why do things half way?
 
Cobalt, 1/2" sound good to me. I agree with Rusty, the extended butt should be hardened if at all possible. It would be far to easy to mash it up if it was left at a low RC.

-Cliff
 
Why use water buffalo for the handles when wood would hold the screw/bolt/nut set-up better and is easier to hang on to? I have a WW II khukuri that obviously lost its' original handle and was replaced in the field with this and is very well used and seems to have held up great. COBALT, if you look in the pix I sent you you'll recognize it by the non traditional shape of the grip and the 7/8ths canvas covered sheath. I can send close ups to you or Bill for inspection if you'd like.

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JP
 
I have a suggestion. I believe that an extended tang would mess up the wonderful lines of the knife. But a butt cap would not. In fact the butt cap would also give us a larger suface area to work with. It would be much easier to hit what you want than an extended tang would. How about a nice steel butt cap for pounding?

Regards,

Tom Carey

[This message has been edited by Tom Carey (edited 03 April 1999).]
 
The idea of the screwed on scales has some interesting potentials. Rusty can throw away the scales and cordwrap his; anybody who wants the scales epoxied on can do that himself; some people may want to make their own scales of various materials -- but the *real* money-making potential is the Barby doll principle -- sell the knife cheap and then make your profit charging exorbitant prices for scales! Convince the customers they want a large variety of scales, different colors, different exotic woods ... mammoth ivory ... micarta in different colors, G-10 in an assortment of colors ... different handle shapes, too, some with palm swells, forefinger grooves.... Then if you can convince them they want a new sheath to match every handle they buy....
smile.gif


-Cougar Allen :{)
 
Cobalt, I can see the engineering by committee starting to take on a life. That's one of the problems I've noticed with these projects which many times results in nothing happening. But it is your design so play it as you see it.

Uncle Bill
 
If I eventually aquire enough chainpurs, I'm not going to worry about the handle if I buy one of these. My hands are small enough I can just shorten the slabs a quarter inch to let the tang's butt stick out. As to the handle slabs, and any screw holes, not important. I'd toss them anyway. Get a natural colored micarta and shape to fit. Most of us have access to a drill, and I'd use a piece of sheet steel as a template to drill holes in tang and backsides of handle slabs to fit concealed pins to tang and scales, then epoxy shaped scales to tang, then would drill throughholes for knifemaking bolts, bevel hole edges, tighten and locktite bolts, hacksaw them off close to flush against the handle, peen ( rivet )bolts into flared hole bevel, dress down flush.

But again, must first get a couple of spare 20" chainpurs, then maybe a 15" chainpur or two, pay off the 2 12" Ang Kholas when they get here...
 
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