Now's The Time: For A New Spyderco Hawkbill

BHQ exclusive natural g10 harpy with a plain edge m4 blade would be awesome.

(Seki has started to use American steel, but I know it'd be a definite long shot)

That's a really interesting suggestion :thumbup:>> M-4 would be an interesting Hawkbill blade I'm sure. I've been wanting to test M-4 in Spyderedge for a long time now and maybe that would make it happen?

As long as they offer them up in PE & SE both I would be for it.
 
Hap40 may be a more reasonable request. I like it also, and my hap40 endura and delica have been easy to sharpen and have held an edge very well.
 
Hap40 may be a more reasonable request. I like it also, and my hap40 endura and delica have been easy to sharpen and have held an edge very well.

I've yet to get a Spyder with HAP40 but I've heard good about it. At this time I'm really curious as to how tool steels like M-4, D-2, and others of that ilk would hold up during hard use. I'm also curious as to how more of these Nitrogen based steels like LC200N would perform in a Hawkbill or even a Reverse S blade for that matter.

Overall like the title says I'm ready for a new Spyderco Hawkbill and I know that many others are ready for some new Hawkbill models. A fixed blade Hawkbill would really be nice.
 
I've yet to get a Spyder with HAP40 but I've heard good about it. At this time I'm really curious as to how tool steels like M-4, D-2, and others of that ilk would hold up during hard use. I'm also curious as to how more of these Nitrogen based steels like LC200N would perform in a Hawkbill or even a Reverse S blade for that matter.

Overall like the title says I'm ready for a new Spyderco Hawkbill and I know that many others are ready for some new Hawkbill models. A fixed blade Hawkbill would really be nice.
But JD , given how Hawk bills are used largely in the marine industry , wouldn't it be counterproductive to make them in non stainless steels ? :/
 
+1
That's why I voted for H1, it's essential for my tasks with Hawkbills...

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and this way you avoid chipping their fragile tip, typical of this shape, and you can dig deep into roots or sand/beach soil without worrying of rust in the pivot or steel

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while keeping it affordable! :thumbup:
 
But JD , given how Hawk bills are used largely in the marine industry , wouldn't it be counterproductive to make them in non stainless steels ? :/

OH I've thought about the corrosion aspects of Non-Stainless blade steels but for most of us who actually use blades and use them hard and on a regular basis I really don't think that that corrosion concerns would affect most knife aficionados like they would with the general public which would mistreat and misuse a blade irrespective of what type of blade steel it has. Your point is well taken however and one to be considered>> because on the actual Spyderco forum I even made a case for the use of more "nitrogen based" blade steels for Hawkbill and Reverse S type blades which would ultimately solve all corrosion problems and concerns with working in harsh environments.

My slant on using tool steels is to see how well they would perform in most pull cutting jobs which Hawkbill blades definitely excel at>> and would deal accordingly with any problems that may result. But again "carbonsteelfan" we are more on the same page than it would seem at face value and I'm fully aware of your primary concerns especially in the areas of knife care, corrosion resistance and optimal materials for folders and fixed blades of their respective sectors>> and don't lose sight of the fact that Hawkbill blades are truly a unique creature in the area of edged tools.

But again my friend you always make great points. So what blade steel would be your ultimate favorite for Hawkbill and Reverse S blades?
 
I recently bought a new Matriarch 2 Emerson in all black and decided with this one I am going to put it to use whenever I need a serrated hawkbill or similar blade for anything. My other M2 I reserved only for defense use and never anything else, I decided this one I am going ot put through it's paces. For now, my primary EDC combo is going to be my Manix 2 LW S110V and the M2 when I carry two knives. When I only carry one, it will be my Emerson Sheepdog (which weighs more than both the other combined!).
 
I recently bought a new Matriarch 2 Emerson in all black and decided with this one I am going to put it to use whenever I need a serrated hawkbill or similar blade for anything. My other M2 I reserved only for defense use and never anything else, I decided this one I am going ot put through it's paces. For now, my primary EDC combo is going to be my Manix 2 LW S110V and the M2 when I carry two knives. When I only carry one, it will be my Emerson Sheepdog (which weighs more than both the other combined!).

So "John_0917" if you were going to lobby for a new Spyderco Hawkbill model based on what you just told us which would you prefer? Also which handle material, blade steel and format?

Are you or others on board with a G-10 Harpy and/or G-10 handled Spyderhawk model? Or do you have another Hawkbill model which you think would win many converts to using Hawkbill blades?
 
Are you or others on board with a G-10 Harpy and/or G-10 handled Spyderhawk model? Or do you have another Hawkbill model which you think would win many converts to using Hawkbill blades?

I think that if you are looking at a new model to win/introduce converts to the hawkbill blade, the dragonfly hawkbill would be the way to go. I hope that the rumors are true and it is a hawkbill sized dragonfly and not meerkat in H1 that is currently being worked on by Sal and Co.
The smaller size of the dragonhawk would make it more likely to be carried as a secondary blade. I have followed a lot of your threads, JD, and you are an ambassador for the hawkbill blades. You speak of carrying a hawkbill as a backup to a more 'normal' blade shape. With the smaller dragonhawk, I think a lot more people would be willing to carry it and test it out. With a FRN handle, it basically disappears in your pocket until needed. It is then that people would be able to see how beneficial a hawkbill blade can be.
Once people realize how beneficial a smaller hawkbill is, I think that on a larger scale they would be more accepting of a larger hawkbill, and in fact look forward to it.
Currently, as a niche type knife, I'm not sure people other than those aware of the benefits of this type of blade, would welcome a larger hawkbill blade. The smaller size of the dragonhawk, IMHO, allows for an introduction to the hawkbill without the added size and expense.
This may be a rambling post, but I hope that my point comes across. A dragonfly sized hawkbill would be the perfect introductory sized blade for a fledgling hawkbill enthusiast.

John
 
I think that if you are looking at a new model to win/introduce converts to the hawkbill blade, the dragonfly hawkbill would be the way to go.
The smaller size of the dragonhawk would make it more likely to be carried as a secondary blade. I have followed a lot of your threads, JD, and you are an ambassador for the hawkbill blades. You speak of carrying a hawkbill as a backup to a more 'normal' blade shape. With the smaller dragonhawk, I think a lot more people would be willing to carry it and test it out.
Once people realize how beneficial a smaller hawkbill is, I think that on a larger scale they would be more accepting of a larger hawkbill, and in fact look forward to it.

This may be a rambling post, but I hope that my point comes across. A dragonfly sized hawkbill would be the perfect introductory sized blade for a fledgling hawkbill enthusiast.

You've made some excellent points "Street Soldier":thumbup:>> And I do believe you're on to something as far as marketing Hawkbill blades for most people who haven't really had any experience with them in the past. And when you consider that even a plain Jane, VG-10 Harpy costs anywhere from $60 to $80 the end line user expects to have a folder that he/she can use in everyday cutting chores. Yeah I tend to agree with you wholeheartedly.

Getting people to actually use one is almost as tough as getting an average knife user to try one of Spyderco's full Spyderedged models. And believe me that takes a lot of convincing. Because I myself was very negative about serrated blades at one point until I got some of Spyderco's SE blades. Pull Cutting is mainly what Hawkbill blades excel at and less than half of most people's cutting jobs would truly benefit from "pull cutting".

Also I think it goes without saying that Hawkbills are the one blade design where serrated/Spyderedged blades really stand out. Because I can accomplish much more with a serrated Hawkbill than I can with a plain edged version. Now there are cutting jobs that plain edged Hawkbills do good at but for the most part the Serrated, Harpy sized folder really does great on most pull cutting jobs. Not to mention they are safer to use than most blades for certain jobs. I would eventually love to see Spyderco come out with a Dyad type Hawkbill at some point.
 
You've made some excellent points "Street Soldier":thumbup:>> And I do believe you're on to something as far as marketing Hawkbill blades for most people who haven't really had any experience with them in the past. And when you consider that even a plain Jane, VG-10 Harpy costs anywhere from $60 to $80 the end line user expects to have a folder that he/she can use in everyday cutting chores. Yeah I tend to agree with you wholeheartedly.

Getting people to actually use one is almost as tough as getting an average knife user to try one of Spyderco's full Spyderedged models. And believe me that takes a lot of convincing. Because I myself was very negative about serrated blades at one point until I got some of Spyderco's SE blades. Pull Cutting is mainly what Hawkbill blades excel at and less than half of most people's cutting jobs would truly benefit from "pull cutting".

Also I think it goes without saying that Hawkbills are the one blade design where serrated/Spyderedged blades really stand out. Because I can accomplish much more with a serrated Hawkbill than I can with a plain edged version. Now there are cutting jobs that plain edged Hawkbills do good at but for the most part the Serrated, Harpy sized folder really does great on most pull cutting jobs. Not to mention they are safer to use than most blades for certain jobs. I would eventually love to see Spyderco come out with a Dyad type Hawkbill at some point.

Very true words.
I was reluctant at first, and never had a fully serrated blade before, but I then tried the Pacific and got hooked.

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Even after that I thought it was absolutely stupid to have a fully serrated fixed blade, I'd never waste my money on one, I said to myself. Look at me now...:D

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Never judge a book by its cover
 
i will also be happy if they make stainless steel scales for the tasman,

Well they've had stainless scales on the Harpy ever since it's inception>> so I would be more apt to go with Titanium myself and it would be consistent with the H-1 Salt, no corrosion format. I actually like Titanium and I've wondered how a Titanium TASMAN, HARPY, MERLIN, SUPERHAWK or even a Titanium Spyderhawk would be like.

As much as my fantasies want to be fulfilled with a G-10 Spyderhawk and I would more than settle for a Titanium handle.

Brother Peacent!!?? Would Titanium suit you better than G-10 for a new Hawkbill model? Or any of the rest of you all for that matter?

But I'm still more than open for suggestions. Because it is high time for Spyderco to come out with a premium grade hawkbill in my opinion.
 
Well, I dislike the added weight of titanium over other plastics/synthetics, I have heavier blades for heavy duty tasks

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an attribute I appreciate a lot of the Salt series is their light weight and the easy load they are in the pocket.

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I really dig linerless FRN for that very reason, but who knows, maybe if the knife itself (Spyderhawk sized) can be kept at under 4 oz...and I can't paint and dye titanium as easy as FRN! :D

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Well, I dislike the added weight of titanium over other plastics/synthetics, I have heavier blades for heavy duty tasks

an attribute I appreciate a lot of the Salt series is their light weight and the easy load they are in the pocket.

I really dig linerless FRN for that very reason, but who knows, maybe if the knife itself (Spyderhawk sized) can be kept at under 4 oz...and I can't paint and dye titanium as easy as FRN! :D

I sort of hear what you're saying "Peacent" because it truly does matter how thick and massive the handle is especially when weight could be a negative factor>> for instance when I got ahold of two of Spyderco's "Holy Grail" models i.e. the Titanium Peter Herbst models I was kind of blown away at how heavy they were>> it actually surprised me because up till that point I didn't think titanium was much heavier than aluminum>> but it adds up with handle scales which could be more massive. Whereas handles like the original titanium ATR model was a less massive handle material wise and it was perfect for that model IMO. It was as though the Titanium Herbst models were made with a ferrous metal rather than a light, corrosion free metal like Titanium, aluminum ect.

I truly see your point with the polymer type handles for use with those types of folders and truly with Hawkbill models as well. And it's probably one of the factors that has made the H-1 Salt Series so successful. And with the prepper/survivalist trend one of things they talk about the most is traveling light and keeping your bug out bag items at a minimum where weight could be a negative factor. Also polymer type handles can take harsh environments much better in the long run. Which makes them more maintenance free as well. OK at this point I'll focus on more nitrogen based steels and maybe G-10 being my ideal handle material. Although I won't exclude titanium for a handle with less material in it.

Also keeping costs down to a degree might make a new model hawkbill more appealing to a first time user?
 
I sort of hear what you're saying "Peacent" because it truly does matter how thick and massive the handle is especially when weight could be a negative factor>> for instance when I got ahold of two of Spyderco's "Holy Grail" models i.e. the Titanium Peter Herbst models I was kind of blown away at how heavy they were>> it actually surprised me because up till that point I didn't think titanium was much heavier than aluminum>> but it adds up with handle scales which could be more massive. Whereas handles like the original titanium ATR model was a less massive handle material wise and it was perfect for that model IMO. It was as though the Titanium Herbst models were made with a ferrous metal rather than a light, corrosion free metal like Titanium, aluminum ect.

I truly see your point with the polymer type handles for use with those types of folders and truly with Hawkbill models as well. And it's probably one of the factors that has made the H-1 Salt Series so successful. And with the prepper/survivalist trend one of things they talk about the most is traveling light and keeping your bug out bag items at a minimum where weight could be a negative factor. Also polymer type handles can take harsh environments much better in the long run. Which makes them more maintenance free as well. OK at this point I'll focus on more nitrogen based steels and maybe G-10 being my ideal handle material. Although I won't exclude titanium for a handle with less material in it.

Also keeping costs down to a degree might make a new model hawkbill more appealing to a first time user?

Agree 100% on the "keeping costs down", that0s one of the things that brought me to the Salt line and into Spyderco, as I was hesitant to spend big bucks just to try the brand.
On FRN and G10, one of my favorite folders is also majorly due to its light weight + cutting performance + slim profile.

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These four weigh a little bit more than a full sized titanium folder, and that's paramount for many knife users/carriers.
I amm totally in for lightweight G10 or Polymer/synthetics (thanks Lycosa!) handles, tough enough and ergonomic while still maintaining a ¡n excellent weight/size/strength/price ratios.
 
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