oil

Lots of ideas but few mentioned WHY they use it. I stick with mineral oil because it's food-friendly, doesn't reek (some guys claim to get aroused from the scent hoppe's #9, and other stuff, but it makes me want to hurl) and doesn't seem to eat up leather sheaths. It also doesn't turn rancid, as I've heard olive/vegetable/nut oils can.

"20 years in front of printing presses and guitar amps... and people wonder why I say 'huh?' alot..."

JT -- formerly known as GibsonFan
 
Lots of ideas but few mentioned WHY they use it. I stick with mineral oil because it's food-friendly, doesn't reek (some guys claim to get aroused from the scent hoppe's #9, and other stuff, but it makes me want to hurl) and doesn't seem to eat up leather sheaths. It also doesn't turn rancid, as I've heard olive/vegetable/nut oils can.


Mineral Oil is the way to go. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:





"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
i rarely use anything, but in the past i have used:

mineral oil
3-in-1
peanut butter
veggie oil
butter

they all worked fine as far as i could tell.
 
Never- I mean NEVER - use WD-40 . . . Its absolute crap.

Leatherman recommends WD-40 on its multitools. Link.

It contains mineral oil, which most folks in this thread (including me) seem to like, along with mineral spirits to emulsify grease and gunk. The mineral spirits evaporates, leaving the mineral oil behind as a light lubricant.

FWIW, Johnson's baby oil is 100% mineral oil, plus fragrance.

Just another view on WD-40, which I have used with good results on just about everything, including blades and pivots. I like the stuff a lot.

:thumbup:
 
Instead of oil, I use Sentry Solutions Tufcloth---a dry, film-based lubricant. It's very nice...that package says it's used by the U.S. Navy's SEAL Teams, which I can't verify...Irregardless, it works well for me, though a SEAL I am not. :D
 
Leatherman recommends WD-40 on its multitools. Link.

Just another view on WD-40, which I have used with good results on just about everything, including blades and pivots. I like the stuff a lot.

:thumbup:

Good to hear you're getting good results with it. My experience with it is, once exposed to dust and dirt it gums up. It does what it claims. Displaces Water. I just never had any luck with it on blades.
 
The problem with oil from what I've been taught is that it "attracts" lint. That is any lint will stick and build up on/in your knife. I've never experienced that problem with the Tuf Glide I use on all my knives including my collection of autos. As mentioned, however, it is NOT for use on food prep stuff. There is also some stuff called Militec which requires heat to work correctly. You can use a hair dryer but this seems like it would be a hassle. Many speak highly of Militec. I think it is also NOT for food prep stuff. On my Sebenza I use the CRK fluorinated grease. -DT
 
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Kano Kroil:thumbup: Smells great...I use it on all my guns, too. Unsafe for food prep so I use Mineral Oil for my non-stainless food prep knives. I think CLP is a great product and would use it more often but it has IMO absolutely the worst smell of any product of its kind.:barf:
 
Olive oil on my user knives, It isn't on there long enough to become rancid.

For storage and on my guns, wd-40. I keep a rag soaked with it in a ziplock in each gun case. WD-40 is great for displacing water and is thin enough to run into crevices other oils take time to get to.

I am hard on my weapons and with the exception of my waterfowl beater 870, they have no rust at all.
 
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