Oiling an Opinel pivot is dumb

Did somebody just ask what 3 in 1 oil was? Anyhow, I've been using silicone spray recently as it doesn't tend to leave much of a residue. I don't think it lasts as long as oil though. Might give it a shot, good luck.
 
But I would recommend to disassemble the knife first (for example forcing the lock ring off by opening the blade in closed position using something like players, and then removing the pivot), soaking the handle in the oil, than giving the oil to dry completely and assembling it all back.

That's a lot of work for a ten-dollar knife. :D

Me, I've been carrying Opinel knives for twenty years and never bothered with oil. Yes, they do get a bit tight when working in the swamps and Arkansas forests. If I were to oil the knife, I'd want to make sure it was a food safe oil.
 
Leave the knife in a car on a hot summer day or three until it gets floppy loose and then soak the joint in mineral oil. It will tighten up from the oil and be more resistant to moisture (but not impervious to it, Im finding).
 
I modified my personal Opinel No.8 Carbon by adding an "easy open" notch. In rare events when it stiffens up I can just pinch the blade open.
 
I used my marine tufcloth. Not on purpose but to protect the carbon blade and it got worked into the pivot. Seems to have sealed the wood enough to stop swelling and shrinking. Not sure how long it will last, but I shall find out.

Not sure about toxicity though, after it dries I mean.....the package says non-toxic.

The mineral oils a good idea though, will give that a try when I see it needs a reapplication. Thank you to gentlemen who suggested it.
 
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I used my marine tufcloth. Not on purpose but to protect the carbon blade and it got worked into the pivot. Seems to have sealed the wood enough to stop swelling and shrinking. Not sure how long it will last, but I shall find out.

Not sure about toxicity though, after it dries I mean.....the package says non-toxic.

The mineral oils a good idea though, will give that a try when I see it needs a reapplication. Thank you to gentlemen who suggested it.

I too use a ToughCloth on my Opinels. I just apply it, let it dry, and than give it a light wipe. You are likely to get more toxins from the food than the knife, IMO.
 
Just smear some Vasoline in the joint with a paper match and wipe out the exsess with a folded up paper towel. I've experimented submerging the whole knife in a glass of water after a vasoline treatment, and it's gone 20 minutes and still opened and closed just fine. You can also get a small brush and paint it with spar urathane and water proof it with that.

Carl.
 
I modified my personal Opinel No.8 Carbon by adding an "easy open" notch. In rare events when it stiffens up I can just pinch the blade open.

That, and sanding off the bump in the heel of the handle on the side opposite the slot are the only mods really needed on an Opi. Anything else is just playing, which is cool too.

Say, I was just looking to knock the pin out of an Opi, which I've never done. It's peened on both sides. Do you all sand or file off the peening, just power it through, what?
 
That, and sanding off the bump in the heel of the handle on the side opposite the slot are the only mods really needed on an Opi. Anything else is just playing, which is cool too.

Say, I was just looking to knock the pin out of an Opi, which I've never done. It's peened on both sides. Do you all sand or file off the peening, just power it through, what?
Even though it might look like it's peened on both sides, it's not. Take a closer look, only one side of the pivot pin has a head, the other side is just the diameter of the rod. It might look peened because it's sticking out of a curved surface. Just take a nail setter or nail of appropriate diameter and hammer it out.
 
Originally Posted by davek14
That, and sanding off the bump in the heel of the handle on the side opposite the slot are the only mods really needed on an Opi. Anything else is just playing, which is cool too.

Say, I was just looking to knock the pin out of an Opi, which I've never done. It's peened on both sides. Do you all sand or file off the peening, just power it through, what?
Even though it might look like it's peened on both sides, it's not. Take a closer look, only one side of the pivot pin has a head, the other side is just the diameter of the rod. It might look peened because it's sticking out of a curved surface. Just take a nail setter or nail of appropriate diameter and hammer it out. -

Mine seems to be hung up at the blade; I've bent a handful of nails trying to punch it through. If I get a real punch, what would anyone recommend as far as rigging things up to start pounding without damaging the inner collar and wood?
 
FWIW -
there is a page at the Opinel Museum (Musee de l'Opinel) on maintenance:

5. If the blade is difficult to open inspite of "le coup du savoyard" (knocking the end of the handle on the edge of the table), without doubt this is due to humidity; dry the knife on a radiator and lubricate the main joint with liquid wax or vaseline oil.

Hope that helps,

--
Vincent

http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent?showall=true
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
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Try changing your angle of impact. I set the metal collar on a slightly open vise jaw, and hammered the pivot pin down between the jaws. Keep in mind that the pivot pin doesnt go through the circular center of the wooden dowel, so you can't be hammering it perpendicular to the surface.
 
When I got my #8, I oiled the pivot with 3 in 1 to help make it easier to open (or so I thought), it became so hard to open and close it was dangerous!... I had to use pliers to pull the blade out of the handle; I couldn't do it using the nail nick. :o

I tried to clean out as much of the oil as possible and the blade has loosened up a bit now. :thumbup:

Good luck to the OP!
 
The entire page on smooth functioning at the Opinel Museum:

Smooth functioning

1. If the safety ring is difficult to turn, slightly pull apart the two lips with circlip pliers.

2. If the safety ring turns too freely, remove it with a pair of circlip pliers, then tighten it back again using flat nose pliers and then readjust it on the assembly collar.

3. From time to time, put a drop of vaseline oil between the two collars.

4. If the blade opens too freely, it should be tightened back again. In order to do this, remove the safety ring (see step 2) then place the head of the rivet on a metal surface and rivet the other end by gently hitting it with a hammer until the right amount of tightening has been achieved.
Readjust the safety ring by tightening it again, if necessary, in order to obtain the desired level of functioning. (see step 2).

5. If the blade is difficult to open inspite of "le coup du savoyard" (knocking the end of the handle on the edge of the table), without doubt this is due to humidity; dry the knife on a radiator and lubricate the main joint with liquid wax or vaseline oil.

As a general rule, never leave the knife in a humid environment.

from page on advice from Jacques OPINEL -

The advice of Jacques OPINEL

Maintenance

Never leave your knife in humid conditions and certainly never put it in a dishwasher.
Apart from giving an exceptional cut, the carbon steel has a tendency to rust. Always clean the blade well with an oily cloth after use, greasing the knife and the joint often.
A sharpening blade or grinding stone can maintain the cutting edge of the blade. In order to do this, run the stone along the blade from the base to the tip at an angle of 20°.
A "sharp edge" is formed on the cutting edge opposite. Remove it by running the stone on this side but without exerting any pressure.

Lastly on page: Description of the knife

by hovering over the handle
OpinelHandle.jpg

(one can make the text stay on the screen, by click and hold on the handle then move the mouse pointer off the handle area, and unclick)

--
Vincent

http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent?showall=true
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.multiply.com/photos
 
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