Old edge vs. edge 2000 thread

Thats Buck kitchen knife. Sharpened on both sides. Rod works whichever side your on.
 
Old Biker said:
It was requested that I start this thread. If others don't chip in it will be a very short lived thread, because I don't have a lot of information. What I do have is a Gritomatci first generation Goniometer.
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Old Biker said:
These results are consistent with what I have measured in the past on knives I have sharpened. Usually about 15º, give or take one to two degrees. Sometimes the angle varies from one side of the blade to the other. Sometimes it is perfect.

I don't have any old Buck knives with original blade grinds.

O.B.
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Thanks man, I did not know that there was an affordable version. I ordered one today. I may have a new old stock Buck sitting around with an original blade grind. Not sure. I know that my Buck Onset was an almost perfect 15 degrees each side (30 total); or at least it touched up very fast on my Spyderco at 15 degrees. No way they did that free hand. I need to check. Yep, a buck 305 with two blades.
 
pitonyak said:
Thanks man, I did not know that there was an affordable version. I ordered one today. I may have a new old stock Buck sitting around with an original blade grind. Not sure. I know that my Buck Onset was an almost perfect 15 degrees each side (30 total); or at least it touched up very fast on my Spyderco at 15 degrees. No way they did that free hand. I need to check. Yep, a buck 305 with two blades.
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It was done free hand. All edges are put on by hand. we have not found machine yet that can provide the sharpness we require.
 
J Hubbard said:
It was done free hand. All edges are put on by hand. we have not found machine yet that can provide the sharpness we require.
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Freehand, I am impressed! I have found my Buck knives to be one of the most consistently sharp out of the box. Another made in the USA brand that I really like (because of the handle varieties and knife types) their knives are far less consistent on their grind. Obviously the guy who ground my 040 Onset was having a very very good day; my favorite EDC knife to date.
 
Mister Coffee said:
J J Hubbard If I'm freehanding a Buck 501, what degree angle should I be going for?

Sorry for hijacking the thread. :)
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If it is new, it should be close to the 15 degree mark right? If you are free handing, you can also match what they have. Darken the bevel with a black marker and you can easily see where you are taking off metal and match the angle. I usually do that on a fine stone so that I am having minimal effect on the existing edge. Then you can decide if you want to (1) match the edge (2) reprofile the edge, or (3) simply use a microbevel at say 20 degrees and move on. Curious to see what J. Hubbard says. Always liked the look of the 501, do not own one yet.
 
J J Hubbard It occurs to me that I am I the dark about "Edge 2000." I gather that this is a new edging process that started in the year 2000. My Buck 501 happens to be from 1980-ish (date of purchase). Before Edge 2000, was Buck going for something other than 15/15?

Sorry for my benightedness concerning this part of the Buck story.
 
Mister Coffee said:
J J Hubbard It occurs to me that I am I the dark about "Edge 2000." I gather that this is a new edging process that started in the year 2000. My Buck 501 happens to be from 1980-ish (date of purchase). Before Edge 2000, was Buck going for something other than 15/15?

Sorry for my benightedness concerning this part of the Buck story.
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Just think of it as "Buck did some research and decided to change how they would sharpen a knife". More specifically, Buck engineers Bill Keys and Pete Quintanilla had a post about the E2K edge. It was titled:

EFFECTS ON EDGE SHARPNESS STEEL TYPES AND EDGE GEOMETRY

They studied edge retention based on different angles of sharpening. Images were labeled things such as "CATRA Edge Retention Test" "Edge 2000 versus ATS34 & BG42 @ 40 degrees. I took a bunch of notes way back when but I did not retain links. My notes also state:

Buck reduced the angles from 35-50 degrees included to 26-32 degrees included and switched to a harder sharpening medium and thus removed the convexing of the cloth wheels. This work (2001) showed blades which cut better initially but cut better for longer. The effect of geometry was so significant that a 420HC blade with the flatter and more acute edge outcut both a ATS-34 and BG-42 blade with the older thicker convex edges. Now if you also re-profiled the BG-42/ATS-34 blades they would of course outperform the 420HC blade.
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In other words, they figured out that by modifying the shape of the knife near the cutting edge and the angle, they could dramatically extend the life of the edge. They had a few iterations on the name and I think that they ended up with E2K.

And yes, I do have more notes, but since I cannot find the original source of my information I will not simply post it all here. I think I pulled it from Buck's web site, but those things change.
 
We got to take the Buck Factory tour at the last BCCI conference. We saw a Buck employee free hand putting edges on blades. It was very impressive. He had some sort of machine where he could check the edge he had put on. I asked him to demonstrate the measurement and he was right on target. Here is something from the archived BCCI newsletter about Edge 2000

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