Old vs. New Buck?

I won't go into the new steel vs. old steel issue except to say that I was warned years ago by others that Bucks were too hard to sharpen and that was one reason I never bought one back then.

That is the truth. Knife traders used to tell me Buck had good steel but it took forever to get an edge on it but when you did get one it was no problem keeping it sharp. I traded a razor sharp Queen Steel for my first Buck in the early 70's and I thought I would never get that sucker sharp. When I finally got an edge on it several tried to trade me out of it.
 
Buck has always set the standard for a quality knife.Even after all these years of new steel options and refining the legendary models they still set the standard for a quality knife.Even though now they have so many models to choose from,the one thing that has never changed is when you buy a Buck you're getting very best!Even the standard 110 is really something to behold!
 
That is the truth. Knife traders used to tell me Buck had good steel but it took forever to get an edge on it but when you did get one it was no problem keeping it sharp. I traded a razor sharp Queen Steel for my first Buck in the early 70's and I thought I would never get that sucker sharp. When I finally got an edge on it several tried to trade me out of it.

Yep, and if you were unskilled at sharpening, you never would get an edge on them. Even a klutz like me with a Sharpmaker can keep my good old 420HC blade like a razor.:thumbup:
 
Easy and hard question for me. I know David M. likes 440c and 425m and so do I. But my knife likes come from many angles. So lets have me just say something on the 300 series.

Buck knives are great........


Oh alright I will be serious.......from the prespective of the ART of the knifemakers craft, I myself, am attracted to the very first Schrade contracted 300s....301 and 303s of the 1960s. The flow of the angles, the execution of the knifemakers skills, the fit and finish of the Classic form of those pocketknifes seems to be at a very high level. I consider them almost custom in quality.
A knife of that form would likely cost at least $100 or more at this time. But their hidden bolster design while "arty" proved weak and with difficult issues in warranty. (I.E. The blades ended bent backwards with really hard use)

Its just NOT all about the steel and the scales.

Camillus contracted knives were more of a standard quality that were very functional and displayed quality knifemaker skills but were designed with more utility in there form. And were easier to work on if warranty was needed.

Bucks designs of 300 have had multiple transitions, some of the jigged bone and stag handle special editions show great skill in the knifemakers hand and are attractive to me. Other special editions showed good skill but in some design factors seems to be pressed to be "special" than actually being so. I am attracted to the Dymondwood series but I want my scale to be very light grey in color, some are but you have to hand search to find them, but I think the scale rivets should be of different size heads in the smaller models. They are too large in the idea of 'flow' of prespective....again something of the knifemakers "Art" giving way to keeping costs reasonable.

The new yellow series attracts me also, as it reminds me of my older "life's teachers" and the yellow handled knives they carried. I would love to see a stamped or etched version of the new escutcheon plate on those.

Buck is contantly working to bring together the art and craft of the knifemaker in an enviroment that must be regulated by economics, hard use realibilty and practicality of production. Some are more working knives for the masses than high art pocketknives.

BUT, I like to own both and hope that Buck never goes to just one side or the other......
300Bucks
 
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I have mixed emotions as I grew up loving my Buck knives that I first purchased in the late 60's, when I used them extensively. I had also bought the sharpening kit and never had problems keeping my 110 or 119 VERY sharp.

I never let them get dull and sharpening was a ritual in itself.

I don't use knives to the same extent these days, but the newer edge profiles and steels such as S30V are EXCELLENT.

From strictly a personal preference, I just LIKE the older knives such as the 2-liners and 3-liners with 440C blades.

Aesthetically, the older Kalinga and Akonua with the more tapered guards and micarta scales look MUCH better to me than the later versions.

Again, those are MY preferences, and I do realize they probably differ than many others.

That being said, the CONSTANT in my opinion, is the integrity with how Buck treats its customers.

Peter, I agree . I mostly have the older Bucks as thats what I collect and I love their look . The new knives I like as well and they cut better . Still, its the people behind the company that gives me pride in being a BCCI member and buyer of there products . DM
 
I don't really see any substantive difference in the old vs. new Buck models where QC is concerned. The radius handles of the newer 110 knives are very nice and comfortable, but I prefer the 440C of my two dots, which I mostly carry. I suppose that if I was forced to choose, the two dots would win, but not over the BG-42 Customs...now I am so confused! ;):D
 
I came in late to this discussion, but all my better knives are made recently, i.e. the S30Vs with Sambar stag, elk, G-10 and rosewood laminates.

I think G-10 is very hard to beat for its intended purposes. The newer wood laminates may not be as traditional and "cool" as solid wood scales, but I'll bet they are dimensionally more stable and durable (crack resistant, etc) and more consistent.

I place Bos-S30V superior to the other steels Buck has used, including 440C.

Perhaps more attention was put to detail in fit and finish when knives were made by skilled craftsmen in far fewer quantities, but the newer materials have certainly shown their value.

Old or new, they're good knives.

Edit: I forgot to mention that the 2X Edge works well for me, even though it took me a while to adjust to the new blade profile. I can sharpen and touch up the Edge 2X easier than I can the old 440C or other pre-2X steels.
 
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Sometimes you have to read between the lines. Some things they just refuse to admit.

They used to do a demonstration with 440C where they would drive the blade through a steel bolt.

They don't do that with the new powdered (powder puff) S30V steel.

In fact, they're trying to wipe that test from memory by changing their Logo--eliminating the old anvil/knife/hammer/bolt Logo.

That should tell us something about the old and new steels. We're not stupid, after all.

;)
 
I place Bos-S30V superior to the other steels Buck has used, including 440C.

And even a klutz like me can sharpen it. They used to show them driving a knife blade through a bolt, but if I wanted to cut a bolt, I'd damn sure use a cold chisel, not a knife.;)
 
Sometimes you have to read between the lines. Some things they just refuse to admit.

They used to do a demonstration with 440C where they would drive the blade through a steel bolt.

They don't do that with the new powdered (powder puff) S30V steel.

In fact, they're trying to wipe that test from memory by changing their Logo--eliminating the old anvil/knife/hammer/bolt Logo.

That should tell us something about the old and new steels. We're not stupid, after all.

;)

Hands down, Bos-S30V is superior to 440C.

So you think the reason they changed the logo was due to S30V and not 425M or 420HC? Or that it had nothing to do with people trying to do their own bolt tests with hardened machine bolts, not mild wood bolts and ruining the blades of their knives?

BG42EDGE - take some pictures of you cutting bolts with one of your 3-dots and post them here. Be sure to show us before and after shots of the edge. ;)
 
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Edit: I forgot to mention that the 2X Edge works well for me, even though it took me a while to adjust to the new blade profile. I can sharpen and touch up the Edge 2X easier than I can the old 440C or other pre-2X steels.

Wolf, yes I agree but it was this point I wanted to focus on :
This type grind allows the edge to be easily and quickly sharpened . Also, remember if all things are even close to equal 'thinner cuts better' . DM :)
 
I guess I love the new ones as well as the old ones,I honestly don't think there is a knife c. in the world todaythat can touch Buck.I am in Canada,and have always been treated great by Buck,with any problem i ever had,and it hasn't been many!

Joe Houser has gone out of his way to help me out and make sure I was taken care of quickly,and it felt like I was part of a big family,Just like it says in those little papers in each box .

I also like their no B.S warranty,they fix anything wrong,period!

Many knife companies claim to be the best,only one of them is.lol
 
So you think the reason they changed the logo was due to S30V and not 425M or 420HC?

The timing was perfect for the S30V. Not so for the 425Mod or 420HC.

Or that it had nothing to do with people trying to do their own bolt tests with hardened machine bolts, not mild wood bolts and ruining the blades of their knives?

That would be the standard story line. I've heard it before. It fails to persuade because they went many years with the Logo and the other steels and then just changed it right after the powdered S30V hit the market and the reports of edge-rolling and chipping started to come in.

Take some pictures of you cutting bolts with one of your 3-dots and post them here.

Why should I abuse MY knives? Buck has already proved that 440C will do it and has the pictures and........HAD the famous Logo to prove it.

Are you calling the Bucks liars by hinting that the bolt-cutting was fake?

;)
 
This type grind allows the edge to be easily and quickly sharpened . Also, remember if all things are even close to equal 'thinner cuts better' . DM

AND........thinner also bends, chips and breaks easier if all things are even close to equal.

:D
 
And even a klutz like me can sharpen it. They used to show them driving a knife blade through a bolt, but if I wanted to cut a bolt, I'd damn sure use a cold chisel, not a knife.;)
LOL,gotta find a bolt cutter knife:D
 
Are you calling the Bucks liars by hinting that the bolt-cutting was fake?
;)

The bolt cutting was for temper testing steel, no it wasn't fake. It was never recommended for customer use and they did print in their enclosed paperwork a notice to not cut bolts, much as they still say 'do not cut fence wire' with a Buck knife. I'm sure their warranty department had returns from people who tried. Today more sophisticated methods of testing steel are generally used including computerized Rockwell and CATRA tests.

Why should I abuse MY knives? Buck has already proved that 440C will do it and has the pictures and........HAD the famous Logo to prove it.
;)

A logo is advertising, not "proof". The logo depicts an older approach much like a hammer and anvil at a hand bellows forge. Roots, my boy. Your very statement "Why should I abuse MY knives?" shows that it is not wise to cut bolts with a knife. ;) :p

It fails to persuade because they went many years with the Logo and the other steels and then just changed it right after the powdered S30V hit the market and the reports of edge-rolling and chipping started to come in.

The early reports that I saw (re. edge rolling and chipping) were not about Bos HT S30V Buck knives. And I have seen other companies demonstrate cutting sheet metal with S30V, and using it in rock climbing as a foot support (using a large full-tang knife, jamming it into a crack in a cliff face and using it as a step).

Why does the military order its special tactical knives today with G-10 and S30V instead of 440C?

But be my guest, continue to live in the mid-20th century. ;):p
 
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