On the fence: Wicked Edge vs. Edge Pro...

[Grapeshot]

I've been using the Wicked Edge and it's been excellent. Its very well made with all metal construction.

 

[Fanglekai]

The wicked edge system has way more options for stones and strops than a few years ago. I like mine a lot for ease of use. The bottom line is both systems have advantages and disadvantages so you have to pick between them knowing the differences.

 

[jeffe65]

I have CDO.......................like OCD but the letters are arainged alphabetically , THE WAY THEY SHOULD BE!!!!!!

Couldn't have said it better myself!!

I've looked at the WE, and held off because of the price. I have a Lansky which I've never had been able to get adequate results from, and because it seems like a similar system, I just couldn't go for the WE until I can find one and use it somewhere and see for myself. I picked up a SharpMaker, and I have great luck with it; I've got razor edges on all my knives, but besides what the rods are angled at, I couldn't tell you how to get a specific angle - It just works for me.

 

[CarverSuds]

Here's a option you may have considered and I'll throw it out. Why not buy both? If you are the type who finds peace and enjoyment from sharpening tools then owning both systems is very inexpensive when you consider what other folks pay for their hobbies. By the time you have the best of both systems you will be in them less than 1k. Maybe a bit more if you buy more expensive stones. Both these systems will last you decades and the enjoyment you have from using both may end up being well worth it.
I happen to be one who enjoys shapening, even though I'm not good at freehanding, and I own a number of power sharpeners and a Landsky. I ordered the EP Pro and it will shortly be here. I plan on ordering the WE just to have the experience of owning and enjoying both. Now, I haven't told my wife I'm doing this but I know she's happy when I've enjoyed myself doing such a simple and useful thing. So, when you break it down to owning it 10 years, you're spending around $100 per year for that enjoyment. That's less than $10 per month!! Now that I've justified it for you, it's easy to order and delivery is fast and both guys are great to deal with. What more would you want?

 

[Maprik]

I had the EP but I couldn't learn it. I couldnt hold my small blades steady enough to keep the edge angle consistent. So naturally, the WE was the answer for me. Now I make scary sharp edges with no trouble.

 

[OHALLUM]

Here's a option you may have considered and I'll throw it out. Why not buy both? If you are the type who finds peace and enjoyment from sharpening tools then owning both systems is very inexpensive when you consider what other folks pay for their hobbies. By the time you have the best of both systems you will be in them less than 1k. Maybe a bit more if you buy more expensive stones. Both these systems will last you decades and the enjoyment you have from using both may end up being well worth it.
I happen to be one who enjoys shapening, even though I'm not good at freehanding, and I own a number of power sharpeners and a Landsky. I ordered the EP Pro and it will shortly be here. I plan on ordering the WE just to have the experience of owning and enjoying both. Now, I haven't told my wife I'm doing this but I know she's happy when I've enjoyed myself doing such a simple and useful thing. So, when you break it down to owning it 10 years, you're spending around $100 per year for that enjoyment. That's less than $10 per month!! Now that I've justified it for you, it's easy to order and delivery is fast and both guys are great to deal with. What more would you want?

I like the way you think Carver! :fox: Now if I could just convince my banker!

Omar

 

[CarverSuds]

I had the EP but I couldn't learn it. I couldnt hold my small blades steady enough to keep the edge angle consistent. So naturally, the WE was the answer for me. Now I make scary sharp edges with no trouble.

How small were the blades you were using on the EP? Did you have the EP Pro or Apex? I heard there was a "Magnet trick" to help stabilize the blade.

 

[kwackster]

Here a Spyderco Bug which i did some time ago to show that the Wicked Edge can handle small knives well also.
The edge was reprofiled to 30 degrees inclusive with only the grit 400 & 600 diamond stones, after which the burr was removed with 6 micron diamond compound on leather: razorsharp with lots of bite.

 

[HuntBomb]

I have been a free-hand guy for about a decade (love DMT), but I would probably go with the WE from everything I've read.
Im glad this thread wasn't any longer, or i may have ordered one.
Thanks for all the info!

 

[FordFan]

I went with the WE. I got Pro pack I a week ago. I used it to sharpen my Manix 2 and my 940. I went ~19 degrees per side on the Manix two and ~17 degrees per side on the 940. Both edges came out great. Tomorrow I am thinking of putting a micro bevel on my new 950.

 

[FW JSB]

Kwackster, that edge looks really good. I understand the choils on some of the Spyderco's can be difficult to reach due to the way the stones are set on the handles of the WE. Have you noticed this? I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on the WE, but I'm just curious.

 

[kwackster]

@ FW JSB:

I have indeed noticed that, and not only with Spyderco knives.
That is the reason why i removed the plastic edges on the sides of the diamond stones so i can sharpen all the way up to the ricasso:

 

[Nosmo]

I think there are a couple of major differences in design that might effect a purchase decision.

The WE clamps the blade and has a fixed and floating clamp system. Now we all know that just about every blade shape is different and if you lay a blade flat against the fixed side of the clamp and then tighten the floating side, the blade might or might not be absolutely strait up. If it is not vertical then the sharpening angles will be slightly different on each side of the blade. For each bevel angle to be exactly the same , the blade must sit absolutely vertical in the clamps.

Now this might or might not be a problem, depending on blade shape, but it is a fact that clamp systems have this 'feature' built in.

Now the EP does not exhibit the same situation as the blade rests on the same blade table when flipped over to sharpen the other side.

Now for perfect repeatability when re sharpening a knife with the WE, the blade must be clamped in exactly the same position as previously sharpened.
Forum members posting on this site have complained about this and slop in all the pivot points in the WE system. Any slop is going to make repeatability of edge angle difficult.

On the EP, if one notes the angle of the pivot rod and measures the distance from the blade stop to the table, the repeatability is perfect, without the need of a 'sharpie' to verify the angle. In real life this means that re sharpening can take just a few seconds.

Both systems can give a fantastic sharp edge. Both are guided systems and on a guided design, one needs the minimum of slop or play in any of the pivot or sliding elements. The WE looses in this comparison in this members opinion.

 

[Billabong]

Getting close to buying an EdgePro, I have the WE but I really want to compare them, might be a waste of money but I will never know if I don't own both.

The WE has some issues that I'm not 100% happy with.

 

[CarverSuds]

I have the EP for a little over a week and so far I love it. WE arriving today so will see how they compare.

 

[REK Knives]

I think there are a couple of major differences in design that might effect a purchase decision.

The WE clamps the blade and has a fixed and floating clamp system. Now we all know that just about every blade shape is different and if you lay a blade flat against the fixed side of the clamp and then tighten the floating side, the blade might or might not be absolutely strait up. If it is not vertical then the sharpening angles will be slightly different on each side of the blade. For each bevel angle to be exactly the same , the blade must sit absolutely vertical in the clamps.

Now this might or might not be a problem, depending on blade shape, but it is a fact that clamp systems have this 'feature' built in.

Now the EP does not exhibit the same situation as the blade rests on the same blade table when flipped over to sharpen the other side.

Now for perfect repeatability when re sharpening a knife with the WE, the blade must be clamped in exactly the same position as previously sharpened.
Forum members posting on this site have complained about this and slop in all the pivot points in the WE system. Any slop is going to make repeatability of edge angle difficult.

On the EP, if one notes the angle of the pivot rod and measures the distance from the blade stop to the table, the repeatability is perfect, without the need of a 'sharpie' to verify the angle. In real life this means that re sharpening can take just a few seconds.

Both systems can give a fantastic sharp edge. Both are guided systems and on a guided design, one needs the minimum of slop or play in any of the pivot or sliding elements. The WE looses in this comparison in this members opinion.

These problems are easily solved if you do things the same way every time... for example: let's say I have a knife (in this example lets say one that is not FFG) that I clamp into the vise with the seating depth pins in the lower setting. I will rest the spine of my blade firmly down on both of the pins equally and set my lower screw (the one that actually firms up the clamping power) to space the gap at the lower part of the vise to the same width as the spine of the knife. Then I go ahead and tighten down the top screw firmly. Now all it will take is just a few turns on the lower screw and I will have an even gap of air between my vise all the way from the base up to the knife blade. If I have used my alignment guide then I will be able to get exact results the next time.

Your other point had to do with the slop in the pivots of the rod arms that the stones go onto. The ones from the factory do have this issue still as far as I know, but if you want it fixed, either you can mod it or WE will mod it upon request with screws so that there is no slop there any more. If you have any remaining, then it is from the space between the inside diameter of the paddles and the rods themselves. This is remedied by technique, i.e. how you hold the stones as you are sharpening. Your angle should be set with an Angle Cube. There is no variable not covered.

You can also get the upgraded new ball-joint arms... contact billabong (a few posts up) and he will help ya find some for cheap =)

The EP also has the issue of slop. If you rest your stone on the blade table and push down on it you will notice that it will move. In other words, you must use the same technique consistently to address this as well. I do agree that the EP is better built and has less slop, however. The variable with the EP is the user... You must hold it the exact same way each time you sharpen, even with your non dominant hand. The EP is also very messy with waterstones... this could be remedied by getting some after market stones such as custom cut Atoma's for it, which I would highly recommend if you do get an EP. Another thing that is hard, or would at least take some getting used to on the EP is to customize the direction of the grind... i.e. the motion you use from edge to spine, heel to tip vs. from edge to spine, tip to heel (hard to understand I know). This really makes a difference in the cutting power of your edge - which direction the micro-teeth are angled towards.

 

[CarverSuds]

Please excuse a dumb newbie question. Wouldn't using the sharpie and the cube each time you resharpen be the most exact way to go?

 

[Billabong]

Hi Josh, I think we have talked before on the WE forums?

For clarity, I am not selling ball-joint upgrade kits for the WEPS.

You can also get the upgraded new ball-joint arms... contact billabong (a few posts up) and he will help ya find some for cheap =)

Now to respond to your post.

These problems are easily solved if you do things the same way every time".

That's a very true statement and this is the issue we have, it's up to the eye of the individual to align things.

... for example: let's say I have a knife (in this example lets say one that is not FFG).

I can understand why you chose to "not" use an FFG, being the hardest knife to clamp repeatedly in the same position.
I mean you are trying to clamp a triangular object with a vertical sided clamp.

... that I clamp into the vise with the seating depth pins in the lower setting. I will rest the spine of my blade firmly down on both of the pins equally.

If you rest the spine of your knife on "both" of the pins, then you are allowing the "spine" to determine if your edge is parallel to the base. (or not)
You could quite easily have your knife pointing to the ground or up into the air.

If you counteract this and level the knifes "edge" to the horizontal, then you will be resting on only "one" pin or even no pins.
Therefore this would somehow need to be recorded for future repeat sharpening.

The knife in the photo's a few posts above are not resting on any pins and this is fine, but how do you record this and duplicate it next time?

and set my lower screw (the one that actually firms up the clamping power) to space the gap at the lower part of the vise to the same width as the spine of the knife. Then I go ahead and tighten down the top screw firmly..

If you first adjust the "lower" screw out to the thickness of the spine, then ideally you wouldn't touch it again.
You have set the required gap for for a prefered parallel clamp, simply tighten the top screw right?

Which leaves me wondering why we are not using a vice that is already fixed strictly parallel to the vertical on both sides?
Because we would need a lot of force to tighten it, fine if your using a bench vice perhaps?

Now all it will take is just a few turns on the lower screw and I will have an even gap of air between my vise all the way from the base up to the knife blade. If I have used my alignment guide then I will be able to get exact results the next time..

Right, we now need to "tighten up" this clamp, but unfortunately the top screw is only around 3/4" from the spine with the top pin holes used and not even 1/2" from the lower pin holes. (remembering that our spine is resting on these pins.)
So obviously we rely on our bottom screw to give us the leverage and clamping power to hold this sucker, it's between 2 and 2 1/4" away, plenty of power there.

But hang on, if we move this, then we are widening the gap at the bottom, there goes our "even gap of air".
We have to resist the temptation to overtighten this (even though we want to) as the gap widens.

Ever wondered why the bottom screw doesn't simply screw "into" the right half of the clamp?

It is "still" possible to clamp a knife, have it resting on the depth pins, have an even gap of air and still be leaning to the left or right.

So bring out the foam tape, chamois and other assorted packing, funnily enough these are all things that can compress.
They don't forcibly align the blade, they simply touch the blade where there was previously air, I assume they help by indicating a central position?

If you take a look at the right half of the clamp, it has the bottom/inside corner removed to allow clamping without an "even gap of air".
It's there to allow quite a bit of movement off to the right.

Now, I'm saying this is all great, but if only you could tighten your knife in the clamp so the clamp follows the sides of the knife perfectly.
Forget about the "even gap of air", this is the sweet spot, easy to repeat every time.

Wouldn't you love to be able to do this with the clamp detached from the base?
Then lock the clamp back into the vice and set the clamped knife in a perfectly vertical position and lock it!
You could align each side with a square against the knife spine, left, then right.
Would be great for doing part way visual inspections of your progress also.

I will explain my opinion of the joint and paddle slop in another post soon. (something you are very familiar with)
Might pull the trigger on an EdgePro soon, the Pro version has my eye.

Until then I will cover everything I have learned about one side of the thread topic, the WEPS.