On the Origin of Phantom Bevels

[muleman77]

It's good to see that somebody is already doing this as I had envisioned. Thanks for posting here.

Hopefully, it shows the ease of doing it that way for you at least. I'm sure it may never be known what this had to do with the historical design process.
It's a very valid possibility though, I would have to agree.
An axe with an inserted bit may be likelier to leave a pronounced bevel, as the wrought would work so much easier than the insert. All speculation there, I've only done a couple and they were all steel.

 

[jake pogg]

An axe with an inserted bit may be likelier to leave a pronounced bevel, as the wrought would work so much easier than the insert. All speculation there, I've only done a couple and they were all steel.

As to the first,the stiffness of steel bit vs WI is a very sound thinking(i've had/felt their laminate do so).

Especially maybe the overlayed bit, it'd be yet stiffer,structured like that.

Muleman,having done a couple,and solid steel ones at that,was that a good enjoyable process for you,things didn't fight you too bad?
Was it ok for you holding on to the critters,and did you find a sweet spot on your anvil and did it there,the peining?
Only if you'd had time,but it'd be great to hear your impression of the process.

 

[muleman77]

As to the first,the stiffness of steel bit vs WI is a very sound thinking(i've had/felt their laminate do so).

Especially maybe the overlayed bit, it'd be yet stiffer,structured like that.

Muleman,having done a couple,and solid steel ones at that,was that a good enjoyable process for you,things didn't fight you too bad?
Was it ok for you holding on to the critters,and did you find a sweet spot on your anvil and did it there,the peining?
Only if you'd had time,but it'd be great to hear your impression of the process.

The job is pretty easy if you're comfortable with the smithing processes. The forging aspect didn't take me but a half hour or 45 min of pretty inefficient work.
It could be much faster if you worked 2 or 3. Lots of time wasted waiting for reheat. Also if you had an eye drift and got the whole head much hotter, it would hold heat longer and cut your # of heats. I tried to keep the eye from getting to much past black, and im sure it was sucking heat back that way. All things a busy blacksmith would know and have done.

I used a pair of curved Jaw tongs, holding one side of the eye.They reach almost across and hold great. I built them, I think they are pretty typical for axe forging.

A rounding hammer, and a spot that was comfortable just slightly to the off side of my horn worked as a pretty good pair to draw out and keep it even.

 

[jake pogg]

Thanks yet again,a neat,competent process!
It Is nice to have a drift,and it is sure enough tricky to not heat the eye,working so close to it and a bigger chunk at that...

Hopefully, it shows the ease of doing it that way for you at least. I'm sure it may never be known what this had to do with the historical design process.

(i think that you manifestly Are the perfect example of the "historical design process"