On the TGLB models and their coatings.

adluginb

adluginb

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Nov 12, 2009
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How do I go about ordering a TGLB without a coating? It doesn't have that option on the web site. I guess what I am saying is I just want the knife without a coating on it. Is this what is called a Competition finish? Does it cost more to have the coating left off?

Also it's been said before that I think the black coatings seem to chip or wear away faster than say tanker grey? Wouldn't all finishes wear the same when used in the same conditions?


Back to main question, how do I order a TGLB with just the shiny blade?

Thanks
 
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Sadly competition finish was discontinued a while back. :(

Unless the Custom Shop will do it at an added cost, I think the closest we'll get to comp finish is to strip the blade yourself.
 
I think there was more done to the blade for the comp finish other than just leaving the coating off. From what I've heard while being here not even the custom shop will do the comp finish anymore.

Seems the only way is to get one with a coated blade and have it stripped, won't be exactly like the comp finish but close apparantly.
 
Morgo said:
I think there was more done to the blade for the comp finish other than just leaving the coating off. From what I've heard while being here not even the custom shop will do the comp finish anymore.

Seems the only way is to get one with a coated blade and have it stripped, won't be exactly like the comp finish but close apparantly.
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.... yep this.
 
Too many people did not understand comp finish and because of that we discontinued it.

Garth
 
Snakeplissken83 said:
How come?
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They kept receiving too many returns and complaints regarding the exposed tool marks on the blade from the competition finish, which cuts greatly into time, quality, and production, therefore they discontinued it. I, like many, would love to see its eventual return as an option with a statement that tells you what you are getting, and not to complain. The ignorance of others ruined it for the masses.
 
engineerciv said:
They kept receiving too many returns and complaints regarding the exposed tool marks on the blade from the competition finish, which cuts greatly into time, quality, and production, therefore they discontinued it. I, like many, would love to see its eventual return as an option with a statement that tells you what you are getting, and not to complain. The ignorance of others ruined it for the masses.
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Ah, I thought it might be something like that...I wonder how many of those fusspots would actually have used their knives, i expect they were just gonna re-sell them anyway.
 
What's the easiest way to strip a finish? I use my Busse and don't really like the marks in the coating I'm getting. Would just rather have it bare.

Thanks
 
adluginb said:
What's the easiest way to strip a finish? I use my Busse and don't really like the marks in the coating I'm getting. Would just rather have it bare.

Thanks
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Klean Strip works pretty well. Just put it on and you'll see the coating start to come off. Repeat as needed.
 
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I have stripped a few of my knives and I only strip my knives up to the handles.
I like getting the coated knives and then just stripping the blades - because then you get the advantage of having the coating AKA rust prevention under the handles which IS where a knife will rust if water/blood seeps under and just stays there.

I just don't like coated blades for food prep in the woods when the coating gets scratched up. The scratches are a home for nasty little bugs especially if I am using the same knife for game and slicing/cutting food that will not get cooked or cutting food after it has been cooked.
That is just my personal preference to strip off all knife blade coatings. Not everyone will agree and that is fine with me.
 
ausher said:
Does clean strip hurt or damage the micarta or g10 if you get some on the scales?
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Nope. Many members on here have used it and had great results. I coated mine and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then I started scraping it off. I used a toothpic to get in the corners near the handles. Then I took it to the sink to wash it off. After it was stripped I hit it with a ScotchBrite wheel.



 
There was a thread on stripping.....I'm just too lazy to search for it. Just remember to etch the logo if you want it to stay as out is really only in on the coating.
 
I used circuit board etchant from Radio Shack. I used blue painters tape to form a damn, covered the logo with the etchant and then let it set for 8-10 hours depending on how deep you want it.
 
Ausher. Go into radioshack and ask for PCB etchant. The coating will act as the resist and the exposed metal logo will be the only thing etched. There are plenty of tutorials if you google "how to etch a knife"
 
ChristoDart said:
Ausher. Go into radioshack and ask for PCB etchant. The coating will act as the resist and the exposed metal logo will be the only thing etched. There are plenty of tutorials if you google "how to etch a knife"
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I was wondering this also. So only the Busse name is not coated and it will only etch that correct.

Makes more since now how jd4320t made the dam with tape.
 
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