On the TGLB models and their coatings.

I have etched 3 Bussekin knives using the Radio Shack etchant. Make sure to use soap and water to get all oils off the logo - Use a tooth brush to scrub. I was told that the etchant looses potency after a time on the blade, so....

I usually etch when I am home for 1 hour, clean well, etch 1 hour, clean well..... I do this cycle for about 10 times. If I go to work I leave the etchant on all day. and come home to do the 1 hour increments. 2 to 3 days and you are done - I like my logos deep :)

Then you are ready to strip. On my Ratmandu and ASH with canvas micarta handles I just sprayed the stripper all over. Didn't do a thing to the handles and they were coated with stripper :)

Good luck.








 
Bullcarver said:
I have stripped a few of my knives and I only strip my knives up to the handles.
I like getting the coated knives and then just stripping the blades - because then you get the advantage of having the coating AKA rust prevention under the handles which IS where a knife will rust if water/blood seeps under and just stays there.

I just don't like coated blades for food prep in the woods when the coating gets scratched up. The scratches are a home for nasty little bugs especially if I am using the same knife for game and slicing/cutting food that will not get cooked or cutting food after it has been cooked.
That is just my personal preference to strip off all knife blade coatings. Not everyone will agree and that is fine with me.
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I agree, all my users are stripped by yours truley.
 
Doggoneit! I wish that I would have read about etching the logo before I stripped and sanded my blades.

My logos have all done went and disappeared.
 
I would like to note that the longer you etch, the more detail you lose. Sometimes you can etch too long and the details will begin to run together or dissapear all together. Areas like the little dot on the top of an A or the centers of a B for example. I know through experience :/ The acid will at first just eat strait down when it is put onto the exposed metal, but once it gets past the coating and eats downward it will begin eating up under the coating as well. So it will begin to "balloon" outwards. Eating metal away in all directions. So just be careful. Muriatic acid used in pH balancing of pools works wonders as well and can be found pretty cheap at home supply stores. It's also much quicker.
 
I didn't read all the comments but, if no one told you. You'll need to etch the logo if you want to keep it on there. Nevermind. Haha I saw it just now.^^^
 
ChristoDart said:
I would like to note that the longer you etch, the more detail you lose. Sometimes you can etch too long and the details will begin to run together or dissapear all together. Areas like the little dot on the top of an A or the centers of a B for example. I know through experience :/ The acid will at first just eat strait down when it is put onto the exposed metal, but once it gets past the coating and eats downward it will begin eating up under the coating as well. So it will begin to "balloon" outwards. Eating metal away in all directions. So just be careful. Muriatic acid used in pH balancing of pools works wonders as well and can be found pretty cheap at home supply stores. It's also much quicker.
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So just how long would you recommend ? I have stripped a few but never etched , I just bought the pcb
 
I'd start with two hours then rinse it and check it. Take note of what it looks like and feels like before starting the etch. It doesn't have to be too deep to look good. After the two hour check you'll have a better understanding of how much longer you may need to go. Hope that helps!
 
ChristoDart said:
I'd start with two hours then rinse it and check it. Take note of what it looks like and feels like before starting the etch. It doesn't have to be too deep to look good. After the two hour check you'll have a better understanding of how much longer you may need to go. Hope that helps!
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My dam is built and it's been etching for 15 min now , il keep updates

 
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ChristoDart said:
I'd start with two hours then rinse it and check it. Take note of what it looks like and feels like before starting the etch. It doesn't have to be too deep to look good. After the two hour check you'll have a better understanding of how much longer you may need to go. Hope that helps!
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I see what you mean now , I rinsed it and checkd it, looks like a good start, I'm going to reapply for another two hours then strip the blade, hopefully 4 hours was enough, I'm no expert but it kinda looks like another two hours will get-er-dun
 
Well o well, the etch came out perfect and this knife had a surprise underneath the coating




Factory satin .. Sweet
 
I don't think that could have worked out better! Lookin good! Would you say 4 hours gave a good depth?
 
Think I'm going to strip my TGLB also. I don't like the look of the tan coating. Too crinkly looking and shiney. I was thinking it be a flat coating.
 
Ok. So today I'm etching the logo. Went to radio shack to get the etching solution and all they had is a 16oz. Bottle.... I could etch probably a 1,000 knives.... poked a little hole in the foil seal to put a dab on the logo and I was holding the blade and it shocked the tip of my finger! Apparently this stuff can cause a static discharge. Also I had to tape the handle because first attempt it all seeped under the handle. Is that a concern? Guess I'll wash it good afterwards.
 
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