One deciding factor that can kill a knife purchase for you

Flippers with no thumb opening option.
Folders that are too heavy, 6 oz or more, no matter how well built.
 
Protip: leave the banana on your kitchen counter top for a few weeks and it'll automatically acquire a tacticool black patina that won't give away your position when you're raiding the refrigerator.

Banana patina...love it!

It's hard for me to get past weight greater than 5oz on a folder, but I *might* make an exception here and there. Recurve, serrations, and proprietary hardware are also on the list (but I've also made exceptions, usually in cheeper knives).
 
quality is my number one reason for not buying something. bokers and crkt among many others are on the do not buy no matter what for poor quality.

then stuff like no pocket clips or tip down only etc.
 
- Lying about where the knife is manufactured

- Charging anything over $200 for a knife with basic D2 steel

- Reports of terrible customer service or warranty service/repair

- Fully serrated blades
 
- Lying about where the knife is manufactured

- Charging anything over $200 for a knife with basic D2 steel

- Reports of terrible customer service or warranty service/repair

- Fully serrated blades

The D2 comment sounds like that 1095 thread. Many of Bob Dozier's knives are made in D2 and cost more than $200. They are most excellent cutting tools.

Have no place for either partially or fully serrated main blades in a pocket knife. I consider them special purpose blades although the partially serrated was designed to bridge the gap between plain edges and fully serrated knives. I doubt my wife would enjoy it if I discarded all the fully serrated kitchen knives we have. They are generally her first using choice.
 
The D2 comment sounds like that 1095 thread. Many of Bob Dozier's knives are made in D2 and cost more than $200. They are most excellent cutting tools.

My D2 criteria is specific to production knives only. Hand made is a different story.
 
Mine is S30V. I know it is a great steel, however, I have more than 200 knives with it.....I am tired of it. Unless it is something extraordinary I will not buy it if it is S30V. I know it's weird.
TC
 
Only things that discourage me are price(any knife over $200 or so just isn't worth it to me, cause I know the differences between them and a $200 knife are gonna be so negligible you won't notice them), and poor quality(ie, I'm not gonna buy Tac Force or Frost Cutlery folders).
 
My D2 criteria is specific to production knives only. Hand made is a different story.

people have to get over themselves with blade steel and prices. n690 440c etc are not as super as say m390 but are featured in knives that cost $500+
most people won't even use it let alone tell the difference if they did.

anyways I too do this with wayyyyyy low end or Chinese steel like 9cr and 440c (440c if its actually 440c and heat treatment properly is a different story)

I really only like to get super steel tbo but won't stop me from buying d2, n690 etc in 200$+ knives. tho I don't like to sharpen a good heat treated d2 tbo.

so I dunno I get your point but at the same time the knife society we have are uppity about blade steel since there are now newer and more choices which are also proven in performance.

what do you think the price difference is between some of these blade materials? certainly not more than $50?? I think the costs are elsewhere quite possibly.
 
Made in China. That is the quickest way to dissuade me from a purchase. Made in USA is the quickest way to my interest!


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one thing (that is not too obvious) that it had/didn't have that made you change your mind?

With the possible exception of my Case knives or SAKs . . .
The one thing that freaks me out is heat treat bellow like 59 . . . 60. That was what kept me away from CRK. Now they have upped it I find other things to """hate"""" about CRK. Some day I will be banging my head on the wall saying "why did I wait so long" but there it is (or was). Hardness isn't everything but I use my knives with awareness and don't chop and hammer on them so I like steel that is kind of extra hard and thin at the same time. Think ZDP-189.

Other than that I HATE stuff that is too thick. 30 thou behind the edge or 5 mm at the spine.

And so what did I do last ?
I bought just that. CS Spike.
I had to have it after saying it is the knife James Bond would carry. I fart around with it. But don't take it seriously (for anything I do).

Hahaha . . . just this morning I whipped this bad boy out to slice an apple. After putting most of my weight on the handle and spine the apple cracked open and shot across the counter more split/ripped apart than sliced.



Once I regained my composure and the adrenaline calmed down in my system a bit I reached for my "Little Monster" and returned to some semblance of civilized sectioning or my apple. Love that thing. Now THAT is WHAT I look for. Thin like a business card, plain high carbon up around 62 hardness.
SWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !
I have come close to making it into an EDC folder a couple of times.

 
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