onion work-sharp

[granitestateofmind]

I also own a bk1 ,but a little bit scared of using any grinder, I don't want to mess it up, love this blade !!!

Looks like it needs a beatin'......just sayin'. Though.....it'll need a working edge first. After you've had the KOWS for a bit and practiced with it, of course - still, you'll need to remove a fair bit of steel to make that thing useful, IMO.

 

[Bobby3326]

Ok so this isn't a Becker, but the factory edge on this thing was far worse than any Becker you'd find so it shows how well it works. I'll try digging up my Becker edge pix.

Beckers added.

 

[LG&M]

Buy a good diamond hone first, if you don't have one yet.

This, the Work sharp is good and can save time especially if the blade is damaged or needs re-profiling but it should not replace skill with a stone. I still do 90% of my work on diamond stones.

 

[Bobby3326]

I'll ditto everyone else who says it's a great tool. Had one of the regular ones, then traded up to the K.O. version. I have a 2x42 grinder, but that's more than a little scary to use for sharpening - for me, anyway. The K.O. WS was instrumental in doing this (since this thread needs at least ONE picture) to my Brute:

Now, it has an actual, functional edge that's around 70° vs. the original which was around, oh....(I'm not exaggerating here) ~110°. It's gone from blunt instrument to cutting edge performer thanks to the K.O. Worksharp.

Holy hell it came with an edge that obtuse? Lol never heard anyone grateful for a 35dps edge.

 

[granitestateofmind]

Holy hell it came with an edge that obtuse? Lol never heard anyone grateful for a 35dps edge.

I think this is why Ethan hasn't shown an interest in reviving this monstrosity. Seriously, I couldn't get it to stick in my chopping stump with the factory edge. It's a VERY thick hunk of steel.....

This is only the tip, mind:

NOT an edge profile meant for cutting. NOW, OTOH, I can feather stick with it....thanks to the good folks at Darex and a certain Señor Cebolla....

 

[kenash]

I've had my KOWS for a while now and I truly love it. It's so much fun. But, it takes some getting used to. I use it for my fixed blades, but I'm very hesitant to use on my folders. Especially the thin bladed traditionals. If you aren't careful those belts will eat up a blade. Please practice with some cheap kitchen knives first!!!!

Of course, it can do something like this:

I agree for sure! Mine is the original WS. Works great, but you can honk up a sheepsfoot or wharncliffe point in a flash.

 

[19-3ben]

How well do they work on the inside of a recurve blade? I'd assume it would be great for the belly, and anything rounded outward, but what about the inner part of a recurve, like a BK4 or that Brute working from the area of blade closest to the handle up till the belly?

 

[NixKustoms]

A guy at work has one. I asked him time sharpen my 24, and I'm able to get my knives sharper by hand than he could with his work sharp. Personally, I wouldn't get one but maybe I need to see what happens with a carbon blade first...? Then again it did roll the tip more than I'd like it to have.

 

[granitestateofmind]

How well do they work on the inside of a recurve blade? I'd assume it would be great for the belly, and anything rounded outward, but what about the inner part of a recurve, like a BK4 or that Brute working from the area of blade closest to the handle up till the belly?

As long as you keep the edge running perpendicular to the belt, I find it to be the easiest and most expedient method for recurves. The belts conform to the edge profile, and one can also use the thinner regular WS belts on the KO, though there are not as many grits from which to choose.

So that Brute was reprofiled from the choil to the tip using the KO WorkSharp.......took off a lot of steel, which would've been a fool's errand with a crock stick type sharpener - though, those would work fine for a touch-up or sharpening keeping the same angle. IMO, the KOWS is a LOT more versatile. This doesn't mean one shouldn't learn the basics with stones and strops - which I use more frequently than the power tool (ESP. strops!) - because it really helps to understand the process of sharpening and makes it easier to deal with the quirks of the WS. You're gonna want some practice steel. One odd thing about (both) the WS is that, because you pull the blade along the belt on either side and the belt only rotates in one direction, you are not really treating each side of the edge in the same way. One edge is getting ground "uphill" and the other side "downhill". Like I said, quirks.....but a highly recommended tool nonetheless. And make (or buy) yourself some strops.

 

[granitestateofmind]

A guy at work has one. I asked him time sharpen my 24, and I'm able to get my knives sharper by hand than he could with his work sharp. Personally, I wouldn't get one but maybe I need to see what happens with a carbon blade first...? Then again it did roll the tip more than I'd like it to have.

This is why one needs to practice with it.....that's operator error, and can be avoided with the proper technique. But you also gotta go with what you know. When I've gotten the gumption, I've gotten blades scary sharp on my 2x42....but it'd be pretty easy to FUBAR one as well. Any power tool can screw things up pretty fast, but IMO the KOWS, with a little practice, is a very controllable (with the variable speed) and consistent way to sharpen all kinds of edged tools.

 

[DavidCAndersen]

A guy at work has one. I asked him time sharpen my 24, and I'm able to get my knives sharper by hand than he could with his work sharp. Personally, I wouldn't get one but maybe I need to see what happens with a carbon blade first...? Then again it did roll the tip more than I'd like it to have.

Sounds like he might need to work on his technique. If you pull the point past the centerline of the belt while it is still in motion, the tip will be rounded off. If you stop at the right time, there won't be a problem, and when I'm finished the blade will brush away hairs with a very light touch.

Then again, D2 is the only steel that gave me any trouble on the WS, taking a very long time to work so maybe that had something to do with it. S30V, 154CM, 3V, 1095, O1, AUS8, all no problem. D2, never again lol.

Sharpmaker will knock the tip off of your knife as well. My EDC (a Doug Ritter small Griptilian) had lost its point after years of use on the Sharpmaker. With the Work Sharp I was able to get the tip back!

 

[NixKustoms]

Maybe I'll ask him to see if I can borrow it.

 

[Bobby3326]

A guy at work has one. I asked him time sharpen my 24, and I'm able to get my knives sharper by hand than he could with his work sharp. Personally, I wouldn't get one but maybe I need to see what happens with a carbon blade first...? Then again it did roll the tip more than I'd like it to have.

As others have said d2 is a p.i.t.a. to sharpen the work sharp is no exception. It takes ALONG time still and patience must be used, and the tip rounding was user error as well.

As far as sharpness goes your obviously not going to get a level equivalent to the wicked edge, but it'll still get a knife very very sharp. I've been using the provided belts but I've been thinking about getting the additional belts to close the gap in between grit progressions. I think by doing that I'll get even better results.

 

[JTmisterknifeguy]

This thread is an excellent data point for me . I already have a crock stick sharpener and a entry level Lansky sharpener, which I've had hit'n'miss success.
I've been seriously considering the K.O. Worksharp due to its glowing review from wealljuggleknives on YouTube.
I don't have a bench style belt sander yet, and this would give me exactly what I would need a sander for 95% of the time.
Downside: it's not a cheap system, granted it's not $100s of dollars, but compared to a $20-$50 Lansky...

 

[Bobby3326]

This thread is an excellent data point for me . I already have a crock stick sharpener and a entry level Lansky sharpener, which I've had hit'n'miss success.
I've been seriously considering the K.O. Worksharp due to its glowing review from wealljuggleknives on YouTube.
I don't have a bench style belt sander yet, and this would give me exactly what I would need a sander for 95% of the time.
Downside: it's not a cheap system, granted it's not $100s of dollars, but compared to a $20-$50 Lansky...

The best part about it is it's versatility. With this system you can sharpen knives, but also you can sharpen axes, lawn mower blades, ect. If it takes an edge this thing will likely sharpen it.

I will say the $129 for the ko version is well worth it over the $79 for the original. You gain adjustable guides, wider belts, variable speed, and the option to upgrade later to the optional accessories.

Also to the remarks I've seen about not being able to put any pressure against the guides bc they move. It's an easy fix, tighten the 2 Allen keys located on the backside after you've set your angle. This will prevent the guides from moving allowing pressure to be applied to the guides.

 

[Kentwood33]

I think this is why Ethan hasn't shown an interest in reviving this monstrosity. Seriously, I couldn't get it to stick in my chopping stump with the factory edge. It's a VERY thick hunk of steel.....

This is only the tip, mind:

NOT an edge profile meant for cutting. NOW, OTOH, I can feather stick with it....thanks to the good folks at Darex and a certain Señor Cebolla....

Kindda excited today, just got my second bk1 ,what a noticed at first glance,that's a little bit thicker at the tip,seems like I'll have to spend more time sharpening it with my work- sharp as soon this shows up (still waiting for it )[emoji51] [emoji51] [emoji51]

 

[Kentwood33]

Finally got it with me,just started reprofiling my camillus obtuse edge

 

[Bobby3326]

Finally got it with me,just started reprofiling my camillus obtuse edge

What belt are you using to reprofile? Looks like you have the x4 on it. From the looking at the blade it doesn't look like you've reached the apex or it just a shadow?

 

[Kentwood33]

What belt are you using to reprofile? Looks like you have the x4 on it. From the looking at the blade it doesn't look like you've reached the apex or it just a shadow?

Just testing the water, like I said just started, am new using the sharpener and don't wanna go too aggressive on the knife, you right, still a lot to do but I'll keep working on it,hoping not to mess up my baby! And the belt not really sure what the number is,started with the medium one and seems is doing o.k.

 

[Bobby3326]

Just testing the water, like I said just started, am new using the sharpener and don't wanna go too aggressive on the knife, you right, still a lot to do but I'll keep working on it,hoping not to mess up my baby! And the belt not really sure what the number is,started with the medium one and seems is doing o.k.

Gotcha, It looked like the white belt on it. Was gonna say you'll be there ALONG time trying reprofile with that one lol. I'd definitely recommend practising on a few beater knives until you get a feel for it. The x65 will make short work of most reprofiling jobs, try to stay off the p220 course belt unless you trying to hunk off allot of steel, cause it will and very quickly.