Only Sharp Knives Are Interesting- the Sharpening Thread

yoko said:
Sorry

1 more thing came to mind that might help some.... my fingertips are fried from my job so I have a hard time feeling burrs

I always keep a micro fiber towel near me when sharpening to wipe off the blade and I also use the less fluffy side to feel for a burr

It works perfectly !

So if you are new to sharpening (and have a hard time feeling of there is aburr formed)try the micro fiber trick by running it on the opposite side of what you are sharpening lightly (the less fluffy side)...... if there is any burr you will feel it snag
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This is a great point! Also worth noting that your burr should be more visible on lower grits and as you work through finer grits, if you are doing it right, the burr will get harder and harder to see.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
What is your shallowest angle that you can grind to?
That is something about the guided systems that concerns me?

Great looking edge, btw
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I've gone 14 before , but the height of the blade matters....

If you have a blade that is an inch tall (or taller), it's easier to run lower angles because the front of the clamps will not be super close to the edge of the blade

A lower in height blade puts the clamps closer to the cutting edge which will start to give you problems running lower angles without hitting the clamp

(I believe hapstone makes thinner clamps also)


I hope my ramblings make sense
 
With a wide kitchen/chef style knife even 10 degree is not difficult. KME also makes a broadhead (arrow) clamp that works for narrow blades but it's only marginally better than the standard clamp.

Tormek makes the SVM-00 that can be handy if you get creative, it leaves a lot of room for error though, just like most of their accessories.
 
I'm in the "sharp enough" camp. I have an Edge Pro for "just in case"...otherwise I use either freehand or my Sharpmaker (or jig set up to replicate the Sharpmaker angles for larger stones).

Once the edge cleanly slices phone book paper in both directions, I generally say "good enough".

My personality is such that if I spend too much time trying to get a perfect edge, I'd not want to use it and ruin it. So "good enough" is easy to maintain without feeling like I've destroyed a work of art. (Same reason I don't wash and wax my 4Runner. 🤣 )

Those of you with healthier mindsets can employ other methods to better effect.
 
Blues said:
I'm in the "sharp enough" camp. I have an Edge Pro for "just in case"...otherwise I use either freehand or my Sharpmaker (or jig set up to replicate the Sharpmaker angles for larger stones).

Once the edge cleanly slices phone book paper in both directions, I generally say "good enough".

My personality is such that if I spend too much time trying to get a perfect edge, I'd not want to use it and ruin it. So "good enough" is easy to maintain without feeling like I've destroyed a work of art. (Same reason I don't wash and wax my 4Runner. 🤣 )

Those of you with healthier mindsets can employ other methods to better effect.
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Working sharp.... is what I like to think of my stuff.
I was taught by my Dad when I was around 8 how to sharpen on a stone.
I've tried a variety of things, but never the fully guided set ups. They might work for me, since I favor taller blade heights.

I just have a thought in the back of my mind, since I occasionally make/sell stuff that I want My work to be the Best it can be........ and it obviously looks different than most.
But as long as I keep getting told, it's good.... it must be OK. I guess.

Still I'm curious
 
I've known a ton of highly respected custom makers whose knives sold from the several hundreds of dollars to the thousands of dollars...and the edges on their knives could be anywhere from what "Kit" Carson referred to as "working sharp" to what I considered "not sharp at all".

I'm not concerned with whittling hair. How that would be of any use for what I use a knife for has never been demonstrated to me. I'm not saying it's not worthwhile, but it's more of a hobby or challenge than it is of practical value, imho. To each their own.

I'm sure your nice, boring knives, Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer do just exactly what they need to do, and that those who buy your knives find that they do just that.
Then again, I don't think a nice, functional knife is boring in the least.
 
Blues said:
I've known a ton of highly respected custom makers whose knives sold from the several hundreds of dollars to the thousands of dollars...and the edges on their knives could be anywhere from what "Kit" Carson referred to as "working sharp" to what I considered "not sharp at all".

I'm not concerned with whittling hair. How that would be of any use for what I use a knife for has never been demonstrated to me. I'm not saying it's not worthwhile, but it's more of a hobby or challenge than it is of practical value, imho. To each their own.

I'm sure your nice, boring knives, Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer do just exactly what they need to do, and that those who buy your knives find that they do just that.
Then again, I don't think a nice, functional knife is boring in the least.
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Same mindset here.

I've found that an edge that can shave, but is slightly toothy (on a microscopic level), works better for a wider range of uses.

A hair whittling (or 'tree-topping') edge works well for a narrower range of things, like making really good looking cuts of sashimi (I don't use a straight razor, but it would be good for that, too).

I've found that the micro-refined edges can 'skate' on some harder things, where a slightly toothy edge will 'bite' and cut better. Also seems to retain that level of sharpness longer, and be easier to touch up.
 
Blues said:
I've known a ton of highly respected custom makers whose knives sold from the several hundreds of dollars to the thousands of dollars...and the edges on their knives could be anywhere from what "Kit" Carson referred to as "working sharp" to what I considered "not sharp at all".

I'm not concerned with whittling hair. How that would be of any use for what I use a knife for has never been demonstrated to me. I'm not saying it's not worthwhile, but it's more of a hobby or challenge than it is of practical value, imho. To each their own.

I'm sure your nice, boring knives, Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer do just exactly what they need to do, and that those who buy your knives find that they do just that.
Then again, I don't think a nice, functional knife is boring in the least.
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I agree

In my case I actually get a chance to use my edges everyday at work (I prefer a bitey edge for my uses)

I'm running through a lot of thin paper and plastic sheeting , tape and foam rope (now I use my DEK1 for heavier cutting)

I'm lucky enough to be able to use my knives a lot at work but my usage definitely varies from other people's

That's why I enjoy reading others perspectives!!
 
bluemax_1 said:
Same mindset here.

I've found that an edge that can shave, but is slightly toothy (on a microscopic level), works better for a wider range of uses.

A hair whittling (or 'tree-topping') edge works well for a narrower range of things, like making really good looking cuts of sashimi (I don't use a straight razor, but it would be good for that, too).

I've found that the micro-refined edges can 'skate' on some harder things, where a slightly toothy edge will 'bite' and cut better. Also seems to retain that level of sharpness longer, and be easier to touch up.
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I agree 100000 percent!
 
I think it's like anything, the appropriate edge for the knife and its intended use.

There's little argument for that EDC duties a polished edge is a hinderance. They slip through many cuts and can feel dull in spite of being sharpened like a laser. I tend to use my EDC's for food, leather (rough cuts) and cardboard as much a thing else, so a semi-polished edge does well here. Polished within reason of course, 800-1000 grit tends to be my favorite range.

If a knife is going to be for hard use, heavy duty cutting I'd leave it pretty toothy around 400.

Mirror polish is for show pieces, nothing wrong with that as long as you understand its limits. Most guys who want a mirror edge are not going to use the knife anyway.
 
I'm starting to try out dual grit edges. One side of the edge is sharpened anywhere from 800 to 1000 grit, while the other side stays at 300.

It's really interesting. It seems to cut forever. The only downside is you need to alternate which side of the blade is lower grit each time to maintain symmetry.
 
I was at the Blade Show and met Andrew Demko. He told me he puts a factory edge on his knives at 18 DPS and recommends sharpening at 20 DPS. This is in the context of talking about his fixed blade knives. I asked what he finishes his knives on and he said 220 grit and then give it a good strop. He mentioned the toothy edge that aids in cutting. I'm a relative noob to knife sharpening, so that was a revelation to me. :)
 
Well.
I get a new blade set up in the TSProf
It has high and low spots all along the edge.
The high spots are not much issue. The low spots are kicking my a@#.
Keep grinding for perfection, Or, Get near acceptable, and let future sharpening's eventually, hopefully, wear it to even?
Also.
The cutting edge flair at heel.
Have an opinion about dealing with it?
 
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