Opinel: Factory DULL

G

GarageBoy

Joined
May 23, 2003
Messages
5,952
Did I get a dud? There's no bevel at all and the edge feels flat. Finally ground a tiny one in
 
That’s how mine was like. The edges are ground thin (slightly convex) and they sharpen up easily.


- Frank
 
just cleaned mine up. The edge had a wire almost the entire length. Few minutes with a ceramic steel and strop got it shaving.
 
I think it's a good thing. Most knives I have to reprofile as it is, and this is one that I can put a very thin edge on with a minumum of effort.
 
GarageBoy said:
Did I get a dud? There's no bevel at all and the edge feels flat. Finally ground a tiny one in
Click to expand...

My #6 was that bad, but my #8 wasn't for some odd reason. They sharpen up easily enough that I don't care anyway- I've convexed them both. :D
 
Interesting. I've had about half a dozen Opinels go through my hands and as far as I can remember they were all dull. I've heard that European knives don't typically come sharp from the factory, but I couldn't honestly tell you whether that's true.
 
Opinels come with a full convex grind. If you want a secondary bevel, to strengthen the edge, a Sharpmaker or similar system will put it on easily enough. Since these are inexpensive factory knives, they may not come shaving sharp, but that convex edge can be touched up with no trouble at all.
 
Grover_Cephas said:
I've heard that European knives don't typically come sharp from the factory, but I couldn't honestly tell you whether that's true.
Click to expand...

:grumpy:

You should try a Mora knife from Frosts of Sweden, Helle Knives ( Norway),
Brusletto ( Sweden I think) and last but not least Victorinox ( in US better
known as SAK). All very sharp out off the box.

Dirk
 
Grover_Cephas said:
I've heard that European knives don't typically come sharp from the factory, but I couldn't honestly tell you whether that's true.
Click to expand...

Switzerland is in Europe - Victorinox and Wenger Swiss Army Knives come sharp.

Germany is in Europe - Pumas and Bokers are reputed to be sharp.......

Finland is in Europe - Puukkos are reputed to be very sharp, as are Swedish Mora knives......

I'm not doubting people can get knives that are not sharp from the factory -
but this thread would not get such response - if most people didn't think Opinels are supposed to be very sharp from the factory.

Just for the record all the Opinels that have been through my hands have been very sharp.

--
Vincent

http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
 
Whoops--

I have experience with Swiss and scandinavian knives. I just made the same silly mistake as when people forget that Egypt is in Africa :D

Anyhoo, like I said, it's just an "I seem to remember hearing".

Back to Opinels, I just dug through my knife drawer and found three #8's that I haven't sharpened yet (they make great gifts--especially if you reshape the handle first, and if you know a lot of people who patronize Renaissance fairs).

Two are totally dull (the edges don't "grab" at all, and they reflect LED light head-on like a beacon), and one is sharp-like. It'll cut okay, but it isn't the kind of "utility sharp" that I'd prefer.

Honestly, the "dullness" doesn't bother me at all. Between their thinness and the carbon steel, they get razor sharp just looking at the Sharpmaker. ;)
 
I've gone through a lot of Opinels. Most are sharp, but not very. Usually takes about 5 minutes or less to bring out a shaving edge. The tightness of the pivot and handle finish can vary also. For less than $10 you shouldn't expect a $100 edge. Buy your Opinels where they have a bin of them and you can choose and see the variation.
 
Opinels are supposed to have zero-bevel edges - ie: there is supposed to be no separate edge bevel - and the blades are (overall) convex ground.

In fact the Opinel Museum says under the Cut at:
http://www.opinel-musee.com/uk/idx_couteau-uk.htm
QUOTE:
If a sharpened edge with a width of 2 to 3 mm can be seen, then this is certainly not an Opinel.
UNQUOTE

However the more recent Opinels I have seen - mostly #8's - seem to all have a very narrow/slight (<1mm) separate edge bevel - like the blades were convex ground - then finished on a V-hone for the final edge.

The least recent one that I have and can date is a carbon steel #8 - dated 1986 - a special Centennial for France's gift of the Statue of Liberty to the USA - this I am almost certain I have never sharpened (since it was bought as a collectible) - does have a very narrow but separate edge bevel - which can be seen under magnification.

Opinel_S.jpg


--
Vincent

http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
 
My No. 8 did not come sharp either. As others have suggested, 5 minutes on the Sharpmaker fixes that.

Brownshoe mentions the tightness of the pivots varies. I'll say. I can barely open mine -- just about tears my thumbnail off - and I've worked the blade over and over and lubed it with Pro Link. Any suggestions for making it easier to open?

UnknownVT -- you always have the best photos.
 
Keith Mayton said:
I can barely open mine -- just about tears my thumbnail off - and I've worked the blade over and over and lubed it with Pro Link. Any suggestions for making it easier to open?
Click to expand...

Thank you for the compliment.

Opinel's wood handles can swell due to moisture - therefore difficulty in opening. So one does NOT want to use any liquid lubes that will soak into the wood - which could also swell it.

Opinel themselves suggest petroleum jelly (Vaseline).
http://www.opinel-musee.com/uk/idx_couteau-uk.htm
QUOTE:
5. If the blade is difficult to open inspite of "le coup du savoyard" (knocking the end of the handle on the edge of the table), without doubt this is due to humidity; dry the knife on a radiator and lubricate the main joint with liquid wax or vaseline oil.
UNQUOTE

However if your sample is already difficult to open and the working it with petroleum jelly with a little torquing action does not seem to free the blade up - you may want to dry out the knife handle's wood a bit - you will have to be very patient to allow the wood to dry out slowly otherwise you risk cracking the wood from rapid dehydration and/or temperature changes.......

Opinel Museum's suggestion of a (central heating) radiator is fine - but I doubt if you want to turn on your heating in Summer just to dry out a knife handle.

I suppose blowing the pivot joint with a hair dryer on low might work - but don't do too much too quickly - use several sessions of moderate "drying" - if the pivot starts to feel hot - STOP! - wait and allow the handle to cool down completely then apply more heat - but this is a bit risky as rapid heating and cooling is generally not so good for wood.

A wood kiln is better - it's no more than a warm dry closet with shelves to allow air to cirulate and take away the moisture - the old fashioned "airing cupboard" probably is a good place to put the knife for a few days/weeks, and check once a day to see if the action is better.

--
Vincent

http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
 
I knew it was Zero ground, but I saw the tiniest little bevel on the edge. My Mora is sharpened flat zero ground style(med Ark leaves a thick scratch pattern on what was polished metal, though)
 
I have four Opinels and have had others before, as far as I can remember they all came sharp and were/are easy to keep that way, mine are very old, maybe the new ones aren´t quite the same.
 
Thanks Unknown VT. About a minute with a hair dryer fixed it. Oh well, so much for being patient and doing it slowly! :o
 
The one Opinel I bought was sharp when I bought it, but I wouldn't really have any real standard of sharpness when I first buy them since they are after all 'cheapies'. Where as when I got my SOG blunt I wasn't too pleased and sent it back since I payed £116.95 for it!
 
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