Opinel knives

They're fantastic knives. I had a #8 carbon steel that was beautiful. It was cheap enough that I didn't feel a need to baby it, it cuts like a dream, it sharpens easily. I live in the barely-reclaimed marshland of Houston, and I never did anything in particular to mine and it worked just fine. That said, the others above have good ideas and more diverse experience than I did. Swelling wasn't an issue for me, but for others it is.
 
With Opis, there's the buy/don't buy decision, probably based on how much hassle it'll be the keep the joint from seizing up due to dampness — good advice given here for how-to-fix.

Then there's the customize approach. Hey, they're cheap, wood is easily worked — why not?

Hence:
• http://michel.montlahuc.free.fr/opinel4.htm
• http://forum.neoczen.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4780&start=150 (this drops you in at page 11 of nearly 200 pages of tweaking — keep scrolling)

Couple of examples:

cospce10.jpg

http://forum.neoczen.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4780&start=450#p523832

costo-13.jpg

http://forum.neoczen.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4780&start=510#p548901

costom13.jpg

http://forum.neoczen.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4780&start=660#p625320

echiqu10.jpg

http://forum.neoczen.org/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4780&start=585#p574480

Me? Here's the lame thing I did to mine, which involved nothing fancier than Rit clothing dye and some urethane varnish.

tumblr_muvhfdniZi1r4zf5xo1_1280.jpg


Top to bottom: Opinel #9 (carbon), garden #8 (stainless), #6 (carbon)

It's entirely possible to own one of these things and do absolutely nothing to it. Or you can mess around and have some fun. Your choice!
 
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I just ordered an opinel no. 8, a GEC bullnose in orange delrin, and a Case Mini Trapper red jigged bone in CV. All from Blade HQ.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
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Adjust the lock ring so it sits in the 9 o'clock position. That and flatten the handle a bit. It will lay in its side nicely if that's important to you. Or not.

Thanks...a good suggestion. I tried to cut cherry tomatoes last nite, and had difficulty getting thru the skin. I hit the edge with a 400 grit and then a 220 grit to get some teeth into the edge, and that did improve the tomato-skin-cutting test.
I don't intend to be a hard-nose with these knives, but like Pinnah said..."they're not for everybody."
For the crowd that loves them, I'm happy for you.
don
 
I bought my first Opinel, a carbon No. 9, about 5 years ago. The factory edge was not very impressive. I put a polished, zero bevel edge on it and it is the sharpest knife I own! I have knives up through the $500+ range and my Opinel slices better than all of them. In fact, it always annoys the heck out of me when I can't get my other knives to achieve the same level of sharpness as my heavily used, $10 Opinel!
 
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Oh, those are really nice!

Probably because it's a national symbol of sorts, French knife-nuts really have fun with that thing. I understand (haven't checked) that Opi sells a "rough cut" version, probably in size #8, with all the hardware in place, but handle is left as a rectangular piece of wood with only the blade well in place.
 
I bought my first Opinel, a carbon No. 9, about 5 years ago. The factory edge was not very impressive. I put a polished, zero bevel edge on it and it is the sharpest knife I own! I have knives up through the $500+ range and my Opinel slices better than all of them. In fact, it always annoys the heck out of me when I can't get my other knives to achieve the same level of sharpness as my heavily used, $10 Opinel!

That's the way to do it. You know how to sharpen an Opinel. That is the most wicked slicer on the planet.

I sliced some tomatoes today in Saguaro National Park, blade when through them like butter.

and that beeswax treatment in the joint with a hair dryer is a technique that really works well. You do have to go through the agony of 5 minutes of just doing it but I fared just fine. LOL

Really the best knife ever...
 
My walk the dog pocket pair. Note I've done a bit of custom woodwork on mine to get to the blade slot more easily. A bit of wax or french polish to keep smart.
Opening and closing is thinking time to how best to get the job done, cut that stick, pick that mushroom, or how to build that baguette to make the perfect sandwich. Life doesn't always have to be in a rush.
I know an old boy who has dressed out all his deer for 30 years with one Opinel, thats a couple a year every year.

IMGP7729.jpg
 
I just got an 8 last week and decided to order a 9 and 10. These things do slice like the dickens and are a great value.
 
Easy fix. Mash a teaspoon or so of wax (hard floor wax works great, but candle wax would do) into the blade groove and melt it in with a hot air dryer* (*don't use your significant other's unless you get permission). Seals the wood and lubes the locking ring too.

I should try that Ed. Buggers lock up during extended rainy weather.
 
If you are used to 7-8's, pick up a 12 for a lark. Man oh man that's a freakin chunk of hoe handle.
 
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Great knives for light backup
They are great cutters, lightweight,easy to maintain and secure
For the price they are very good value
 
I've got a couple: stainless No.7 and a carbon No.9

Never did anything to them except sharpen them. Few minutes on a Spyderco Sharpmaker and they cut like a laser. Edge retention isn't great: the edge is thin and the steel seems to be on the soft side. But a few swipes on the Sharpmaker and they're good to go again.

I've had the No.7 for about 20 years now. Untreated handle. Still opens and closes just fine.
 
As I posted in another thread, I own 2, #7 & #10 and have been trying to carry them more lately. They are both carbon blades. I read above about a zero bevel polished edge, and the consensus around here is that they are incredibly sharp, great slicers, etc. For the life of me I can't seem to get these knives shaving sharp so I'm looking for a little guidance here. Aging eyes have me to the point where sharpening ain't as easy as it used to be. I have a Lanky kit as well as a bunch of stones, diamond stones, etc. Should I just hold the blade perfectly flat on a flat DMT credit card or use the 17 angle on the Lanky? What am I missing here? I can get a Buck 110, my 1085 Traditionals, and my kitchen knives sharp to my satisfaction, but for some reason the Opinels never seem to get where I want them. Should I bring them to my sharpening device guys and ask for a zero bevel, polished edge? Any and all suggestions appreciated.
 
I should try that Ed. Buggers lock up during extended rainy weather.

A well treated Opinel will not lock up in any extended rainy weather. If treated right, an Opinel will stand up to extended submerging with only a bit of stiffening of the action. I've used mineral oil soaks, wax melted into the wood around the pivot, and linseed oil. All seemed to do away with the problem. Yes, they will get a little stiff, but if you've done the treatment, any treatment, it will open and close.

This was meant to be a 30 minute test. I got sidetracked and forgot about it till about an hour passed.


Took it out and pulled it right open. Stiff, but workable.


Dried it off and dropped it in the pocket. Used it few times the rest of the day, and as the day wore on, it got better as it dried out in my pocket. Bring on the rainy weather.
 
As I posted in another thread, I own 2, #7 & #10 and have been trying to carry them more lately. They are both carbon blades. I read above about a zero bevel polished edge, and the consensus around here is that they are incredibly sharp, great slicers, etc. For the life of me I can't seem to get these knives shaving sharp so I'm looking for a little guidance here. Aging eyes have me to the point where sharpening ain't as easy as it used to be. I have a Lanky kit as well as a bunch of stones, diamond stones, etc. Should I just hold the blade perfectly flat on a flat DMT credit card or use the 17 angle on the Lanky? What am I missing here? I can get a Buck 110, my 1085 Traditionals, and my kitchen knives sharp to my satisfaction, but for some reason the Opinels never seem to get where I want them. Should I bring them to my sharpening device guys and ask for a zero bevel, polished edge? Any and all suggestions appreciated.

IMO, the slicing is less about the edge and more about the blade grind.

I suggest not over thinking the edge. Treat it like your 110. The only difference is that you need to add a back bevel as the blade wears down.

Using a Lansky, I use a 17dps back bevel and then use a 20dps primary bevel.

The carbon is a bit softer than your Buck, so use a light touch on final honing. (The Inox is very similar to Bucks 420hc)
 
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