Opinel knives

harlycarly said:
For the life of me I can't seem to get these knives shaving sharp so I'm looking for a little guidance here. Aging eyes have me to the point where sharpening ain't as easy as it used to be. I have a Lanky kit as well as a bunch of stones, diamond stones, etc. Should I just hold the blade perfectly flat on a flat DMT credit card or use the 17 angle on the Lanky? What am I missing here? I can get a Buck 110, my 1085 Traditionals, and my kitchen knives sharp to my satisfaction, but for some reason the Opinels never seem to get where I want them. Should I bring them to my sharpening device guys and ask for a zero bevel, polished edge? Any and all suggestions appreciated.
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First thing I do is reprofile the edge by dragging the edge over leather backed sandpaper of various grit until I get to 2000. Leading the edge does not work as well for me. Once I get the edge profiled and polished, about all I have do is strop it occasionally after use. Mine all will easily shave. The fact that they can shave is not all that important to me but a polished edge will last a lot longer in my experience.

My old carbon model is easy to strop to a hair popping edge, needs stropping a bit more often than my stainless models but takes that edge very fast, good for in the field;

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But I like the edge holding properties of my 12c27 models better and the #6 and #8 models come in some excellent wood choices. Bubinga wood like this #8 piece contains more natural oils. They use bubinga for their oyster knives. Still a bit of teak oil soaking and then occasional beeswax treatment in the joint keeps it silky smooth with the right amount of joint pressure.

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I did run across a wonderful #9 with plain beechwood, no stain, up in a little outfitter store in Kanab, Ut a few years ago. It had a carbon blade and the same handle shape as my carbon model above. It felt great in the hand too. Now I kick myself for not picking that one up when I could.

Opinels make the best food processors I know of and they carve wood like crazy. There is no other knife that gives you as much wicked sharp blade for the size of the closed knife and the incredible light weight. They are tough, impressive tools for utility and travel, especially when you are on foot with a pack on your back, making many miles through rugged, trailess terrain, and every ounce counts.
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I think pinnah was right on me overthinking things. I worked on both of them last night and am satisfied with the results. Ended up going with the Lanky at a 17 angle, then very carefully and gently polished it off. I will use the gradual grit strop method and back bevel technique as it dulls up. Simple solutions for a somewhat simple blade. Thanks again.
 
Hi, I need to ask for an advice. :)

I bought an Opinel No. 7 and both the locking collar and the blade was quite stiff. So, I
1) removed and loosened the locking collar a bit so it can be turned more easily (before, it required a lot of strength and my thumb hurt); and
2) I disassembled the whole knife and used sandpaper on the inside of the handle where the axis of the blade is.

Unfortunately, even though I thought I was being careful, in step 2 I removed too much wood. Now the blade not only has no friction but it also moves from left to right a bit. When I lock the collar, the movement stops, of course, but I'm still thinking about trying to "unloosen" the thing a bit.

Any suggestions, pls? I was thinking about adding a spacer but that would again stiffened the movement of the blade .....

PS: So, I found a very thin spacer among the **** I keep in one of my Drawers of mess. I had to file the inside of the handle a little more but now there is no sideplay of the blade. So ... well ... let's hope it would hold together.

PPS: Next time I know I should stop soon enough - I gave it a little of Last sandpapering before the first assembly and it was bad. Also, next time I'm gonna sandpaper just around the rivet hole and not close to the end of the knife.

photo_2018-02-24_11-44-37.jpg
 
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sethbradb said:
Been considering buying an opinel to just throw in my pack for a backup food knife or just ligjt utility. Was wondering how well they perform. Thanks
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Opinels are excellent slicers.

Note that there are both carbon and stainless steel versions.

I prefer carbon.

Opis can get hair popping sharp.

Great knife to throw in a backpack either as main knife or as a backup.

I have a mess of Opis and find that I prefer the model #12.

You cant go wrong with an Opinel and they are dirt cheap to boot.

Having an unmodded Opi seems almost unnatural to me - here a #12 cut down to a wharnie.

Its an insane slicer of cardboard.

y60RlM8.jpg
 
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RedneckBear said:
Hi, I need to ask for an advice. :)

I bought an Opinel No. 7 and both the locking collar and the blade was quite stiff. So, I
1) removed and loosened the locking collar a bit so it can be turned more easily (before, it required a lot of strength and my thumb hurt); and
2) I disassembled the whole knife and used sandpaper on the inside of the handle where the axis of the blade is.

Unfortunately, even though I thought I was being careful, in step 2 I removed too much wood. Now the blade not only has no friction but it also moves from left to right a bit. When I lock the collar, the movement stops, of course, but I'm still thinking about trying to "unloosen" the thing a bit.

Any suggestions, pls? I was thinking about adding a spacer but that would again stiffened the movement of the blade .....

PS: So, I found a very thin spacer among the **** I keep in one of my Drawers of mess. I had to file the inside of the handle a little more but now there is no sideplay of the blade. So ... well ... let's hope it would hold together.

PPS: Next time I know I should stop soon enough - I gave it a little of Last sandpapering before the first assembly and it was bad. Also, next time I'm gonna sandpaper just around the rivet hole and not close to the end of the knife.

photo_2018-02-24_11-44-37.jpg
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If it were me I wouldn't bother trying to salvage that handle. Get yourself a nice piece of wood or antler and make a new handle.
 
Great knives, probably the national French knife (next to the French Chef, of course). Melt some wax into the blade slot and pivot area (Jonson's floor wax works great) and you won't have to worry about the wood swelling.
 
My #7 lives with me. It's cool looking, retro in its deployment, and a crowd pleaser even for those averse to pocket knives.
 
RedneckBear said:
Hi, I need to ask for an advice. :)

I bought an Opinel No. 7 and both the locking collar and the blade was quite stiff. So, I
1) removed and loosened the locking collar a bit so it can be turned more easily (before, it required a lot of strength and my thumb hurt); and
2) I disassembled the whole knife and used sandpaper on the inside of the handle where the axis of the blade is.

Unfortunately, even though I thought I was being careful, in step 2 I removed too much wood. Now the blade not only has no friction but it also moves from left to right a bit. When I lock the collar, the movement stops, of course, but I'm still thinking about trying to "unloosen" the thing a bit.

Any suggestions, pls? I was thinking about adding a spacer but that would again stiffened the movement of the blade .....

PS: So, I found a very thin spacer among the **** I keep in one of my Drawers of mess. I had to file the inside of the handle a little more but now there is no sideplay of the blade. So ... well ... let's hope it would hold together.

PPS: Next time I know I should stop soon enough - I gave it a little of Last sandpapering before the first assembly and it was bad. Also, next time I'm gonna sandpaper just around the rivet hole and not close to the end of the knife.
Click to expand...
The idea about making a new handle is good, or you could add some epoxy to fill the void and recut the slot, it would have the added benefit of sealing out moisture.
Any chance you are a fan of Owen Benjamin ?
 
harlycarly said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I think pinnah was right on me overthinking things. I worked on both of them last night and am satisfied with the results. Ended up going with the Lanky at a 17 angle, then very carefully and gently polished it off. I will use the gradual grit strop method and back bevel technique as it dulls up. Simple solutions for a somewhat simple blade. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The solution to good sharpening freehand is to avoid rocking/angle changes.

The solution to rocking/angle changes is to stroke lengthwise in a very slight diagonal for coarse grits, and only go perpendicular for the finishing touches/micro bevel.

Stainless needs diamond hones, except maybe on the finishing touches. Opinels should be the easiest of all knives to sharpen, unless the blade flexes/moves a lot relative to the handle from sharpening pressure, which could be a problem.

17 dps main edge bevel (not micro bevel) is about what I have on my daggers and blunter choppers (with 20-22 dps micro bevels), some even less, so it is a little too open for an Opinel in my view (17 dps on an Opinel should be the micro bevel at most). My French Sabatier Jeune Boy Scout knife is around 12 dps, as is my SOG Fatcat. The Opinel is thin, so 17 dps will have a very small hard to "read" bevel: It would re-sharpen far easier in the field with a more closed 12 dps edge that you just touch up at the same 17 on the apex alone. This is not a heavy duty knife.

Gaston
 
RedneckBear said:
Hi, I need to ask for an advice. :)

I bought an Opinel No. 7 and both the locking collar and the blade was quite stiff. So, I
1) removed and loosened the locking collar a bit so it can be turned more easily (before, it required a lot of strength and my thumb hurt); and
2) I disassembled the whole knife and used sandpaper on the inside of the handle where the axis of the blade is.

Unfortunately, even though I thought I was being careful, in step 2 I removed too much wood. Now the blade not only has no friction but it also moves from left to right a bit. When I lock the collar, the movement stops, of course, but I'm still thinking about trying to "unloosen" the thing a bit.

Any suggestions, pls? I was thinking about adding a spacer but that would again stiffened the movement of the blade .....

PS: So, I found a very thin spacer among the **** I keep in one of my Drawers of mess. I had to file the inside of the handle a little more but now there is no sideplay of the blade. So ... well ... let's hope it would hold together.

PPS: Next time I know I should stop soon enough - I gave it a little of Last sandpapering before the first assembly and it was bad. Also, next time I'm gonna sandpaper just around the rivet hole and not close to the end of the knife.

photo_2018-02-24_11-44-37.jpg
Click to expand...
You could try removing the collar again, soaking the end in water, and putting the end under mild compression with a bullnose clip or some rubber bands. Then remove and let dry under compression. That should warp the wood ever so slightly to close the gap. You might have to sand the inside of the groove a bit to allow for pivot point travel but it's minimal work compared to crafting a new handle or searching for a micro thin spacer. Good luck!
 
It's an inexpensive, and I'll even say, cheap, knife. I'll take any SAK over it, any day of the week for a backpack. Save the ten bucks for a beer and a bottle of Ballistol to keep your other knives clean. LOL

However, perhaps it's a right of passage. :)
 
So, I took my #7 ... got a thin spacer, hammer, pliers, apple cider vinegar, linseed oil and some other sh- ... stuff and got cooking. The spacer works fine regarding the resistance of the blade, I also adjusted the locking collar so it requires less strength to lock. Then I used the chemicals to finish the job. (The picture was made before sharpening, therefore the edge is still black.)

photo_2018-02-26_17-30-05.jpg


Generaly speaking, what I like and dislike about Opinels (got #7 which is fine for a small folder, and #9, which is too big for my taste in folders)
++ ultra low weight
++ ease of sharpening
+ Old World look :-)
- two hands required
- lock supposedly not entirely reliable under high stress
 
I'd like hear some feedback regarding the new style lockring with the dimple in it vs the old one. I've heard and seen footage of it being very easy to turn with slight spine pressure and not really lock the knife at all in comparison to the original.
 
Mechanical Advantage said:
I'd like hear some feedback regarding the new style lockring with the dimple in it vs the old one. I've heard and seen footage of it being very easy to turn with slight spine pressure and not really lock the knife at all in comparison to the original.
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I always made the slope on the ring which locks the knife open a little more gradual which I feel makes it lock better. This makes the ring turn a little further. If you have the knife a very long time, this slope can wear as well, making the ring turn further. The new dimple limits the turn of the ring. In the real world I'm not sure how much of a limitation this will be. If you don't mod the ring for a more secure lock it is likely that you could have the knife many years before it was an issue. 'Course, a lot of people have their Opinel many years.

http://web.archive.org/web/20151004...usercontent.com/u/28597626/tuning-opinels.txt

Required reading.
 
Mechanical Advantage said:
I'd like hear some feedback regarding the new style lockring with the dimple in it vs the old one. I've heard and seen footage of it being very easy to turn with slight spine pressure and not really lock the knife at all in comparison to the original.
Click to expand...

The way to deal with he Opinel lock is to treat the knife like a friction folder it was designed to be. I keep the blade on mine snugged up so it's a little stiff to open. About 90 something percent of the time I never use the lock. Cutting a pice of twine, breaking down a cardboard box for the recycle bin, slicing type cuts the dynamics of the cutting will keep the blade open.

Remember, the Opinel's locking ring was not put on until 1955. Until then, the Opinel was just another European peasants friction folder like the Sardinian resolza and the Japanese higonokami. If your Opinel is too loose for that, just take the ring off and peen the pivot pin to snug it up.
 
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