Opinels

Did a few Google searches and found out you better keep the Facosa “Robinson” Cote-a-Cote. The company ran out of business and the knife isn't found on the bay.
 
That is pretty craZy folder there, nice !

Right now, I'm waiting for a couple more wood options for the #8 Slims, nothing yet, but once they hit the shelves I hope to be able to build my Slim collection by a few more ;)
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bought a very used and old #10 from the fleamarket today from the yard sale area. Anyone know about the age of it? Wondering what to do to clean the blade up a bit. Its sharp enough to cut up paper even though its lots of chips taken out of the edge

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Two signs to the age of the knife are that the words on the handle are in a rectangle and the placement of the hand on the blade. The third would be if the blade can lock in the closed position. The knife is an 80's knife.

I use various grits of sandpaper on the blade to clean off the rust. I go across the blade to create the same lines as the company does. On the edge it will take a bit to get the chips out. I use a Lansky to sharpen my knives and that would remove enough metal to reprofile the blade and put an edge on it. If you look thru this thread you will see knives I have worked on.
 
yea it cant be locked with it closed, only when open. I have a Smiths sharpener which I think is close to the Lansky. I got the blade fairly better on the edge but you can still see and feel chips. Whats the easiest way to get the ring off?
 
Check on youtube as there are videos showing how to do the ring with the slip ring pliers. Need to get me some slip ring pliers.

Pictures of the final product are a must. Before and after pictures show all the work you do in the restoration.
 
Was searching around the garage for sandpaper and realized my father had a small belt sander for doing things like knives and axes. Made it easy to to clean the blade off, kinda wish I had a smoother grit though. Still a lot of pitting but Id think id take away too much metal. Had to resharpen afterwords. I just wanna take the ring lock off and clean the grit out.

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It does look pitted and I use 320 and 400 grit. I have used them for so long they are a lot finer than that.
 
A guy at work has been interested in my Opinels that I bring in and he just had to have an Effile. He started watching this one on the bay and "won" it. Here is his No. 10 Bubinga Effile with sheath.

 
Agree, looks like it's getting a good work over, flattened sides, some more curve to grip, looking good

And that Slim #10 very nice, don't know if I want to go that large of one without handling one first, but that'll be a while from now before I can give it a go.
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I posted this on another thread but I want to keep this one fresh also. My new 15 Beechwood and 10 Walnut.

 
Got this awhile back. I had sizes 8, 9 and 12 but this was my first 10. It was also my first problem Opinel. When it was open and locked, the blade canted slightly downward. I had to remove stock on the back of the blade where it touches the locking ring. Using a Duofold coarse diamond file, working slow, it's now perfect and I'm happy with my 12.00 knife.

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Here is my latest one. A No 8 Olive wood with Inox blade. Think the wood looks good, both sides.


 
Sweet Olive No 8; I'll add one sometime! This is the first No 8 Garden Knife I've handled and it took a lot after receiving it to talk myself into gifting it due to how nice it is! I've sanded it and just waiting for the stain to finish drying to put the lock ring and lanyard back on. I'll post another image when it's finished either before or after I get back from TN. I think my buddy will like it since like me he's a sucker for a nice drop point or spear blade.


Just as I thought for me this is the easiest one to re-finish! This one came shaving sharp as well!
 
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