Opinions on 8cr13mov.

So I mostly avoid _Cr_MoV steels not because the steel is some garbage steel but because it is on cheap knifes made cheaply ground cheaply and HTed cheaply. I believe the steel has potential and the fact it seems to be Chinese AUS-8, which I have had good experience with on a knife or 2, only helps to confirm that. I don't think either is a great steel but neither is junk but both can often be found on junk. I have 2 blades using a _Cr_MoV steel and one actually seems to do well for me the other not so much.

Pomsbz said:
My CRKT Swindle is a cut once sharpen once knife. I like the knife but I won't be buying any more Xmov steel.
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palonej said:
Same with mine and it’s a shame because it is a very cool knife. Light EDC only!!
Joe
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This is interesting as my CRKT Swindle in 8Cr14MoV has done very well for me but my Kershaw Cryo II Tanto in 8Cr13MoV came with a bad edge and after having it sharpened it sharpened nicely but the edge did not last at all. I do wish there was a better version of the Swindle but 12C27 doesn't seem worth it and I don't like the look of the handles on it.

I agree with others that there is just really no reason to get a knife in _Cr_MoV when there are better steels available when you hit $40+ unless that design is just a must have for you.
 
my experience with 8Cr is limited to Kershaw and I find it perfectly acceptable for normal EDC use and as a "beater" for household and yard chores.

it is not on the same level with VG10, but I find it reasonably comparable to Buck 420 and that is usually just fine for me personally.
 
From my experience, the CrMov have two/three ‘functions’ that they can serve only one at a time, and need to be resharpened in order to switch to the other. After each activity, you NEED to strop

Activity 1: Letter opener/package opener. Duration of activity- probably forever

Activity 2: Boxcutter. Duration- probably one day of hard use. Or two long sessions of cleaning out the pizza boxes from your college dorm :D (I’m really surprised how much thin blade geometry helped 8cr)

Activity 3: woods knife (I’ll count hunting knife as well). Duration- No idea lol (probably same as act. 2)

Conclusion: CrMov steels will do their jobs, but they’re not as flexible in their roles as other steels.
 
I find that 8cr13mov will perform ok if the knife it's used on has good blade geometry(for example the Kershaw Cryo 2). However my main issue is that it isn't very corrosion resistant. Summers where I live can get very humid so I've had rust issues. I prefer a steel where I don't have to make sure I always oil it at the end of the day.
 
it rust spots easily much like aus8. sharpens easily much like aus8. doesn't hold an edge as long as many brands aus8 from my experiences with it. its okay for what it is...if ya dont expect too much from it.
 
the one thing I dislike about 8cr13mov is the Nickel... same with aus8. Nickel free (due to some people having sensitivity) is the way to go imho.
 
For the <$25 price point Kershaws it is fine as a "gateway knife" steel. However, when you're spending $40+ for it? I don't care how it's heat treated, or how good the blade geometry is, it's crap. The Tenacious was only slightly passable to buy back when it was $30. Now it's a just a rip off (IMO). If you want a Spyderco my advice would be to deal with the cheapo knives for a bit longer and save up for one with a better steel that floats your boat. Such as the Delica/Enduras, or the FRN Natives.
 
:) Done correctly , should be about like AUS8 . Very serviceable steel featured in lots of great knives over many years . Just because there are better choices available now doesn't mean this steel suddenly is "junk" . Any type steel can become useless "junk" if not done right or if used in a knife that is poorly designed or built wrong . :eek::poop:
 
Since I tend to look at knives as tools, and hence for their utility value, I think there is still a place for 8cr. Out on site I appreciate the fact that if I am doing something other than cutting/slicing (ahem...) than I appreciate the steel doesn't chip and the edge rarely rolls. And no matter what I do to it the knives keep going, just diminished in cutting power as the day goes on. I appreciate the fact that a few swipes on the diamond rods will get the knives with 8cr blades nice a sharp with little effort. I like that it rarely rusts, too. I sweat like I am in a swimming pool all day when we have our normal summer days of 100+ degree days. 2 years ago we had a string of 59 days in a row where we broke 100 degrees, so i sweated through my pants and my boots nearly every day. I could see a little bit of rust forming on the knife edge, but very little on the blade which surprised me as I did not preventative maintenance. Like I said, a few swipes on the rods and all is well. BTW, my Kershaw Tremor has never rusted, nor has my Ontario Utilitac II. Just a couple of others. A decent blade at a decent price, I think.

But where I have a problem is when the price is out of whack. I won't pay any kind of premium for 8cr, ever. And if there is a knife design I have to have that is offered in a better steel, I will pay the money to get it. To me, 8cr is a good working/utility steel, but not if sold at prices high enough to purchase a better knife with better steel. If knife doesn't pass the utility test, it doesn't go to work with me.

Robert
 
midnight flyer said:
Since I tend to look at knives as tools, and hence for their utility value, I think there is still a place for 8cr. Out on site I appreciate the fact that if I am doing something other than cutting/slicing (ahem...) than I appreciate the steel doesn't chip and the edge rarely rolls. And no matter what I do to it the knives keep going, just diminished in cutting power as the day goes on. I appreciate the fact that a few swipes on the diamond rods will get the knives with 8cr blades nice a sharp with little effort. I like that it rarely rusts, too. I sweat like I am in a swimming pool all day when we have our normal summer days of 100+ degree days. 2 years ago we had a string of 59 days in a row where we broke 100 degrees, so i sweated through my pants and my boots nearly every day. I could see a little bit of rust forming on the knife edge, but very little on the blade which surprised me as I did not preventative maintenance. Like I said, a few swipes on the rods and all is well.
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*Looking at a guy's Kershaw Shuffle*
Me: man is this burred up!
Guy: Yeah because I actually use it!
Me: You sure you don't want a fancier steel?
Guy: I want something I can take to concrete and get a good edge again
 
l1ranger said:
my experience with 8Cr is limited to Kershaw and I find it perfectly acceptable for normal EDC use and as a "beater" for household and yard chores.

it is not on the same level with VG10, but I find it reasonably comparable to Buck 420 and that is usually just fine for me personally.
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^^^^^ This! I couldn’t agree more. Not the best, not the worst. My personal experience is it preforms similarly to Buck’s 420.
 
Mr.SATism said:
*Looking at a guy's Kershaw Shuffle*
Me: man is this burred up!
Guy: Yeah because I actually use it!
Me: You sure you don't want a fancier steel?
Guy: I want something I can take to concrete and get a good edge again
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Hell, yeah!

Years ago I was stuck on a crew doing carpentry work and I was out of town for a couple of weeks at a time. I owned exactly two pocket knives at the time and if I got my CASE knife dull during the trip out it drove me nuts as I had no way to sharpen it. Since the 1095 case used was hardened only to about 55 Rockwell, this happened frequently.

It took me about a year to hit on the idea, but I started sharpening my knife on a 1 X 4 with sandpaper stretched across it. Started out with 220, went to the next finest grit, then finished with 600 wet and dry. Not only could I put a great edge on my pocket knives, but I would sharpen the knives of the other guys I worked with for beers while I was watching television to kill the boredom of a hotel room. Strop as needed on the back of my work belt. So as it is now, never a dull knife in my pocket.

I wouldn't consider doing that with the better (read: harder) steelsI have on the knives I carry most frequently. OTOH, I rarely work out of town these days so I have access to all my sharpening gear. Still, due to its ease of sharpening I don't hesitate to carry a steel like 8cr as long as it's done well. Lot of utility value in that steel and some of its brothers and sisters if it is done well.

Robert
 
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