Opinions on folding knife blades being centered.

a couple of factors and contingencies determine whether a knife with a non centered blade will be returned to the seller by me, or operated upon, to attempt centering it, on my own - in the extremely unlikely event i am unable to perform successful surgical centering on my own, then it's going back to whence it had come - because even if i am able to convince myself it is merely cosmetic (unless the blade is making contact with any part of the knife, placing undue stress upon a bushing or in any way likely to cause latent damage), i will inevitably come home drunk one evening, and teach that non centered blade a lesson in symmetry the hard way - ask my crkt m16-zsf, which met an untimely demise, in this manner - i used that relatively soft aus8 steel to perform tasks it had no business attempting - i woke up to a demolished blade - reparable, maybe - but i prefer to keep it in its beaten condition, as an explicit reminder, that no matter how much i rationalize i can accept a non centered blade, i simply can not - lol -

first and foremost, if i am very desirous of a knife and i have no choice but to purchase it online from a reputable seller, i will start the process by purchasing 2 of same exact knives in every respect - in doing so, i am taking advantage of the law of averages, to some extent, by increasing the likelihood of a centered blade, having 2 to examine, instead of 1 - if either is centered, i will immediately return the non centered or less centered knife and keep the centered one, unless exigent circumstances apply - end of story, right ? not quite - lol -

in the event either of the 2 knives are, with the exception of the non centered blade, absolutely PERFECT in every other respect, i will then immediately send the non perfect one back to the seller and perform surgery on the otherwise perfect knife - when i use the term "perfect" in this respect i mean

- zero blade play of any kind, whatsoever

- the knife is aesthetically perfect, having no scratches, no issues with the blade coating, if applicable

- the non centered blade must not be dented, chipped, etc., in any manner or degree, no matter how small and hard to notice it may be

- the symmetry and proportionality in connection with the grind and edge, must be perfect

- a clean bill of health is the result of a thorough inspection of every other aspect of the knife

if one of the 2 knives meets ALL of the above criteria, i will then immediately perform surgery, in an effort to center the blade, which, i must say, is rather easy in most instances - i thus far have a 100% success rate - the biggest pain in the ass, by far, was the benchmade 757 vicar - the blades on both of the 2 purchased by me were shockingly pressed against the side of the linerlock side of the liner, but it was most pronounced and visible, close to the tip of the blade, when closed, of course - all my skills and tools that successfully centered many a non centered blade, initially failed to work - no matter what i would do, when the pivot was tightened to achieve the sweet spot, the stubborn blade would move at the same tempo and de-center itself, again - i finally figured out the culprit, rectified the issue and now enjoy a perfectly centered blade on a knife that was now perfect, in every respect, including a perfectly centered blade - the other vicar was sent back to the seller -

nevertheless, a knife for which the msrp is $300.00, but purchasable online for approximately $250.00, should not have left the factory with an OBSCENELY, DISGRACEFULLY and MASSIVELY non centered blade - what in the world are they thinking ??? by the way, it is not an original production model -

i will only perform surgery, if the knife is absolutely perfect in every other respect - otherwise, both knives get returned, rightfully so - i'm not busting my hump or spending any time fixing a blade centering issue, when a knife has other shortcomings or defects -

the only reason i carve out an exception for an otherwise perfect knife and fix it myself despite the inherent wrongfulness of doing so, is that i have learned the hard way, that when you exchange your otherwise perfect knife, for a knife the seller has guaranteed will arrive with a centered blade after discussing the issue with them, you can almost rest assured that the knife will arrive as promised, with a centered blade, and at least one other non fixable defect of some sort, albeit possibly small -

thus, if final victory (absolute perfection) is within reach, go for it, center that blade yourself, and enjoy your perfect knife -
 
I am really OCD about centering. After blade play, it's the deal breaker for me.

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I have found that IME the best centered blades are not the most expensive ones, since my best experiences are with Cold Steel, in particular their last and newest models.

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Definitely improving over the years, and the example of precision manufacturing and caring for details.

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As much as I like them, my Spydercos and other brands are not nearly as well built and constantly centered.
 
interesting thread. In terms of good/perfect centering, ZT stands out definitely. Brands like Benchmade and Cold Steel are no match. Sub-100$ Spydercos have centering problems too sometimes. I am talking about centering both when purchased new and after a period of use.
 
I am not able to go to a knife shop to buy knives. There is nothing in Central NJ. Everything is bought on line.......and I do not like blades not centered.
Solution for me was to find great dealers who will check the knife for me.
Scott at usamadeblade checked all 3 ZTs I bought from him.......total great dude!! Kevin is too!!
Tyler at GP is a pleasure!
Chip at Tops!!
Knives Ship Free!!
Justin at White Mountain on eBay.....most excellent dealer!!
I know most times you can center it yourself.......but sometimes a non centered blade is a sign of an underlying problem that can't be fixed. You take your knife apart, can't fix it and your warranty is gone. Not cool.
Joe
 
interesting thread. In terms of good/perfect centering, ZT stands out definitely. Brands like Benchmade and Cold Steel are no match. Sub-100$ Spydercos have centering problems too sometimes. I am talking about centering both when purchased new and after a period of use.
Talk about your sweeping general statements. :rolleyes:

I Have/do own examples of each of the above that disprove your statements. No manufacturer has a perfect track record.
 
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roll all your eyes as you want. It was a statement of my personal opinion based on my personal experience. It is fine that you have a different one.
 
I agree that the cold steels are very consistent. The only one I have that's not centered is my eland but it's $7.
 
So I recently spent a lot on this knife. Was excited to get it, had a couple cosmetic issues but I got it at a discount. Then I noticed it's quite a bit off center. Would this be a fixable issue or am I just better off sending it back? Thanks.

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So I recently spent a lot on this knife. Was excited to get it, had a couple cosmetic issues but I got it at a discount. Then I noticed it's quite a bit off center. Would this be a fixable issue or am I just better off sending it back? Thanks.

20160213_235350.jpg

Lane--It's not THAT bad. You still have good clearance on the sides. Also, it's offset to the side that will keep it from rubbing on opening.

It may just be lock push, too, if the detent is real firm.

Looks to me like the only factor would be how much it bugs you. From the pic it's not necessarily something I'd send back. It may work over in time or you may find you can tweak it back eventually.
 
Lane--It's not THAT bad. You still have good clearance on the sides. Also, it's offset to the side that will keep it from rubbing on opening.

It may just be lock push, too, if the detent is real firm.

Looks to me like the only factor would be how much it bugs you. From the pic it's not necessarily something I'd send back. It may work over in time or you may find you can tweak it back eventually.

But, EChoil, from upper part of the knife, this is actually bad enough. I would not bother if this is a 100 buck knife. If it's has only cosmetic problem, I can accept. But we do not know what has caused this and this may finally lead to rubbering the frame?
 
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Lane--It's not THAT bad. You still have good clearance on the sides. Also, it's offset to the side that will keep it from rubbing on opening.

It may just be lock push, too, if the detent is real firm.

Looks to me like the only factor would be how much it bugs you. From the pic it's not necessarily something I'd send back. It may work over in time or you may find you can tweak it back eventually.

My thing is that if the pivot is centered, then I can manipulate or tweak the knife scales, frame , whatever , to prevent rubbing. If the pivot is not centered, then the whole thing is gonna look crappy.
 
Man I'd be pissed if I spent $400+ on either of those...how does MKT justify that kind of quality control? I'm looking at my seb slabs, and knife grind, and they're essentially flawless.

Sorry for the crappy photo angle. The green knife is actually spot on, perfectly centered. I pointed specifically at the black 187 to show the offset. To add to the furor, haha, the other point I was trying to make with this photo is the lockup wear spot on the end of the blade. Notice the green knife lockup is very early, just as Medford says it will be. The black knife's lockup is 25% or so... clearly demonstrating that this knife should not have left the shop. Why? One, because this is one of Greg Medford's specific selling points, and TWO, because one of the dimensions is off. Either the blade lockup end is too short, or the scale is not right.

So, in my opinion, the guy grinding the angle on the butt end of the blade, went a few thousandths too far. This will cause lockup to be very late. They added the shims to the g10 side to push the blade over to make lockup earlier and assumedly not have to scrap a blade or rework the knife.

 
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And to further bloviate....

The side bar is, the knives are May and July manufacture, 2015, with the green being later. The green knife has larger diameter shim/ bushing stock, more angle grinding on the perimeter of the lock scale. AND.. to be anal retentive , both knives are exactly the same spacing between the scales, approximately 0.230".
 
Maybe it was an early prototype that slipped through the cracks? It's not just the late lockup on the blade, it's the grind on the side and top of the blade, the grind on the handle scales and the G10 scale, it's completely inconsistent! How did you not send that back to them!?
 
Maybe it was an early prototype that slipped through the cracks? It's not just the late lockup on the blade, it's the grind on the side and top of the blade, the grind on the handle scales and the G10 scale, it's completely inconsistent! How did you not send that back to them!?

Read the whole thread, he did send it back and Medford told him, essentially, to pound sand.
 
Agh thought I had, missed that part. I'd tell them to keep it and then throw a huge fit on BF.

You're not alone. I honestly think DangCat has been impressively restrained and level about the whole thing, as I probably would have gone through the roof if a similar thing happened to me.
 
You're not alone. I honestly think DangCat has been impressively restrained and level about the whole thing, as I probably would have gone through the roof if a similar thing happened to me.

No kidding--hope the cats alright! That's ludicrous...seeing something like that is plenty to convince me not to buy any of their knives.
 
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