opinions on 'smasher' pommels

So for those of you who don't feel the need for one — do you think one like on the Fallknivens would get in the way?

- Chris
 
there pretty handy for tapping a blade back into a log if it starts to slide out. i don't see it being very useful for hammering nails in though :p
 
I often use the one on my SRKW Chopweiler. If I'm splitting a large section of wood with the Weiler and the blades starts to drift out I'll knock the knife back in by striking the pommel.

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By pitdog2010 at 2010-09-30

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By pitdog2010 at 2010-09-30
 
WILLIAM.M said:
Here are a few examples

I have never used them to pound into anything--but they do protect the handle if you have to pound on the pommel without risking damage to the handle as was stated above

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Love the bottom one, can you let me more about it? Blade / handle length? Thanks
 
No use for them here. To me exposed pommels and jimping just makes the knife harder to clean. I avoid them.
 
LG&M said:
Love the bottom one, can you let me more about it? Blade / handle length? Thanks
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That's the SAR-5, right? I have Bill's personal one with blaze orange scales. They used to have a wider butt, but we discussed how they should be narrowed a bit so people with medium & small hands can still grip them.
 
Codger_64 said:
I use a bottle opener. Or I have knives with a bottle opener built in.
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You're carrying too much gear there buddy! Bottle openers are for those with a lack of ingenuity, resourcefulness, or thirst. You'll never look at a bottle opener again once you get the hang of snapping off a bottle cap with whatever object happens to be handy (usually a knife in my case, but a bic lighter, 30-06 cartridge, another beer bottle, handcuffs, flashlight bezel, fire steel ((at least they're good for something...)) and a hundred other things will work).

The spine of a knife blade works wonderfully once you understand the pivot point, and that's all I used for years. But then one day I grabbed a vintage Buck Scout to pop the top off of a liter of IPA. The Buck Scout blade is just a little too narrow to fulcrum a stubborn beer cap off properly. About nine stitches narrow, to be exact. An exposed tang, or the edge of a kydex sheath solves that problem.
 
I hated the idea of skull crushers on a knife for years. until one cold winter knight in an over turned F-150, with hot oil from my 4 speed tranny pouring on me and smoke from the engine compartment. I was able to use the few inches i had to move in and use the pommel to smash the window and get out. truck whent up in flames about five minutes later
 
sutured said:
You're carrying too much gear there buddy! Bottle openers are for those with a lack of ingenuity, resourcefulness, or thirst. You'll never look at a bottle opener again once you get the hang of snapping off a bottle cap with whatever object happens to be handy (usually a knife in my case, but a bic lighter, 30-06 cartridge, another beer bottle, handcuffs, flashlight bezel, fire steel ((at least they're good for something...)) and a hundred other things will work).

The spine of a knife blade works wonderfully once you understand the pivot point, and that's all I used for years. But then one day I grabbed a vintage Buck Scout to pop the top off of a liter of IPA. The Buck Scout blade is just a little too narrow to fulcrum a stubborn beer cap off properly. About nine stitches narrow, to be exact. An exposed tang, or the edge of a kydex sheath solves that problem.
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I've been back packing with those that preach the "proper tool for the job". Funny, the farther we went the more stuff got stashed on the side of the trail for later pick up. Multi taskers are a good thing, :)

Its not as severe when camping, but when you need a pickup truck to carry all the equipment for a weekend, you're not camping your RVing.
 
A good heat treat on the right steel and a well designed blade can provide a strong blade tip allowing you to use the tip of the blade as a glass breaker.
 
Ed Fowler said:
A good heat treat on the right steel and a well designed blade can provide a strong blade tip allowing you to use the tip of the blade as a glass breaker.
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A good whack with most anything will turn a modern car/truck window into popcorn, including the butt of most any non-exposed tang fixed blades and even a pocketknife held in a fist. I do understand the "what if" aspect, but don't see it as a normal need.

And yes, I can and do open bottles with many different objects including the spine of a knife.
 
You fellers must be drinking the premium beers! The ones I drink are all twist off!

(besides, I learnt in college how to pop beer bottles with a bic, key, belt buckle, just about anything.)
 
Kabar's solution is quite eloquent as well, the venerable USMC knife has been with me since the 70's and hammered so many tent stakes. Including those who left their hammers behind on the trail. Leave the blade in the sheath and hammer away.


Works on rigging up bear bags as well. ;)
 
PropThePolecat said:
If theres something that needs hammering (a tent peg is the only thing i can think off), ill use a stick/baton instead. Ive never used the exposed tang for hammering, and ill probably never will.
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I love extended tangs for using the knife in chisel fashion if the need arises, but I agree, if I have to drive a stake I'm going to use a rock if I can find one...rocks make better stake drivers than knives. I have an old Camillus pilots knife and an old Catteraugus 225Q, and I have used their hammer pommels for driving nails, but I prefer a rock for tent stakes
 
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