Opinions on this knife..

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MakerX

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I am thinking of doing a run of 50 or so of this knife. I designed it. It is carbon steel differential heat treated, forged edge. It is 10 inches long 5/32 thick. I am thinking about dropping the edge maybe 1/4 inch. What do you think? I have a blank pic and a finished pic. The finished pic has a old look to it (done on purpose). This knife is very comfortable handles very nice. Don't make fun of my grind lines I am not perfect yet. lol

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Curious as to why you wish to do a run of 50 if you don't feel like your are comfortable with your grinds yet? I prefer 5/32 or 3/16 over 1/4, unless u plan heavy camp chopping... But just my preference
 
A couple of questions so maybe the experts have a little ore to go on. Are you planning to have the profiles done by water jet? By bringing the edge down a 1/4" do you mean to bring the bevel up?

I think you should add a bit more of a ricasso in case your hand slips.
 
Well my grinds are not so bad the knife is unusable. lol If u wanted to get better at hand grinding knives why not do 50? how else u gonna get better. trust me I would not sell a knife that is bad.

I run the outside shape in my cnc. I think u are right about the ricasso. The bevel I think is about where I want it but with the edge going down the bevel would be taller. To keep it where it is at now.

I dont know what the price would be yet. I would like to get $100 maybe. I am also going to do mosaic pins also.
 
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I would suggest a full flat, or slightly convex grind for a blank of those dimensions. The type of grind you're doing there, whether flat or hollow, will drag in cutting meat. That is really more of a chopping grind, and the knife is too small for much of that.
 
If this is a stock removal blade; why the forged edge. Its going to get ground any way you go about it.

If you trying to improve your grinding with this project of 50 knives, I would suggest making several different styles. You will find after grinding 50 blades that your original design will probable change.
 
LRB said:
I would suggest a full flat, or slightly convex grind for a blank of those dimensions. The type of grind you're doing there, whether flat or hollow, will drag in cutting meat. That is really more of a chopping grind, and the knife is too small for much of that.
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yes it is a flat grind. I see what ur saying thanks for the help.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
If this is a stock removal blade; why the forged edge. Its going to get ground any way you go about it.

If you trying to improve your grinding with this project of 50 knives, I would suggest making several different styles. You will find after grinding 50 blades that your original design will probable change.
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good idea thanks
 
Fred.Rowe said:
If this is a stock removal blade; why the forged edge. Its going to get ground any way you go about it.

If you trying to improve your grinding with this project of 50 knives, I would suggest making several different styles. You will find after grinding 50 blades that your original design will probable change.
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Oh, the forge edge is because i am really trying to make a very tough knife with only the edge hard. I think the edge is better when it is forged. I am doing some testing on this knife and it is really doing good but I am not done yet. I know the edge is rockwelling out is the low 60's and the rest of the knife is alot softer mostly down i the 30 range. I am testing one without the forging and maybe it wont make a difference but I will see I guess. If you think it wont help let me know. Thanks
 
MakerX said:
I think the edge is better when it is forged. ........I know the edge is rockwelling out is the low 60's and the rest of the knife is alot softer mostly down i the 30 range.
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I hope those with more knowledge than I will chime in, because my first response after reading that was.... yikes!!:eek:

That seems quite soft.

-Peter
 
A run of 50 should be an excellent starting point. Let us know how it is going when you are finished with somewhere around 35 to 40.
 
MakerX said:
Oh, the forge edge is because i am really trying to make a very tough knife with only the edge hard. I think the edge is better when it is forged. I am doing some testing on this knife and it is really doing good but I am not done yet. I know the edge is rockwelling out is the low 60's and the rest of the knife is alot softer mostly down i the 30 range. I am testing one without the forging and maybe it wont make a difference but I will see I guess. If you think it wont help let me know. Thanks
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Forging does not effect how tough a knife blade is. That is dictated by steel selection along with the heat treating procedures that are used. Generally speaking a blade that is fully hardened then stress relieved along the spine ricasso and tang area will give better service than edge quenched blades. Fred
 
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Fred.Rowe said:
Forging does not effect how tough a knife blade is. That is dictated by steel selection along with the heat treating procedures that are used. Generally speaking a blade that is fully hardened then stress relieved along the spine ricasso and tang area will give better service than edge quenched blades. Fred
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This is anouther way to do it. I did not think it was a better way but "I dont know". I was also trying to produce a hamon line for my mirrored blades (reason for going the way I did using clay).
 
Bigblue17 said:
I hope those with more knowledge than I will chime in, because my first response after reading that was.... yikes!!:eek:

That seems quite soft.

-Peter
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The edge is in the 60's. I want the blade to bend and not break. If you leave the whole knife hard it will snap. I have hammered the test knives through many large nails with no effect.
 
30RC sounds awfully low for the spine and as was stated earlier, forging doesn't improve the steel in anyway. What steel is it anyways?
 
How are you deterimining the hardness?

And what exactly do you mean by "forging?" Actually heating the knife to the point that it is malleable, and then hammering the bevel? Or simply exposing the blade to heat in order to harden it?
 
NStricker said:
How are you deterimining the hardness?

And what exactly do you mean by "forging?" Actually heating the knife to the point that it is malleable, and then hammering the bevel? Or simply exposing the blade to heat in order to harden it?
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I am using a rockwell machine. The only way to accurate way to determine hardness that I know of. I am hot forging the edge with a large hammer. My understanding on forging is it aligns the grain changing the internal structure of the steel. I would like to see the research that it does not effect anything. I maybe just wasting my time and I could skip a step if it dont effect anything. I am just not sure of that.
 
People I am fairly new to knife making but not to the steel industry. I am a journeyman toolmaker of 20 years and I now only program cnc machines and do engineering/design work.
 
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