optimum edge holding?

farid. said:
Saying something like D2 is better than 10V for example, look into it and in a very short time you will see how impossible that can be given proper HT and hardness in both steels.
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farid said:
I agree that you cannot compare a standard grade of steel like D2 with CPM-10v or 15v.
On most occasion I have found most people just like to have a good cutting tool (D2 will do just fine) and not too bothered about having something ultra wear resistant, but also some people like to have the best and that’s where the high grades of CPM come in to it. Personal experience of making CPM-15v and CPM-10v or CPM-S125v knives to users, most users find them challenging if not impossible to sharpen and the reason is a course edge (in my opinion) does not work on these steels, you need to work these high grades of CPM steels to as fine a finish on the edge as possible, a smooth and polished edge, water and oil stones are a total waste of time on these grades (in my opinion) DMT stones works fine, the problem is you need to buy a few different grades, course to very fine. I hope this info has been helpful.
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I agree, I am talking about pure edge retention here. :)

Removing all bias, variables, BS, hype, urban legends etc. :D
 
Good to see this come up again, I really love super performing materials. Seriously you should look into Tantung I've got 2 neckers out of this stuff and it is awesome, sharpened it once to a hair splitting edge, and I never take it off. I would defiantly use this over 15V for a neck knife, because in addition to having spectacular wear resistance it is also completely corrosion free. If you came in contact with some of the few things that will corrode it, you would be much more worried about your health than the knife. Additionally it is available in the right size and relatively cheap. I got a 1/8"x1"x6" bar for $50 expensive to be sure, but for a one time piece not to bad. The down side is that it is a huge PITA to work with, because you have to grind it hard (60-63 Rc), but at this point the all the materials you are looking at are going to be like this.
 
Ankerson, how does the 120g edge pro stone hold up on those steels? I dished mine pretty good reprofiling the Umnumzaan :)

BTW, you're videos have actually taught me to use the EP without cursing. So easy just to not move the knife.
 
ssblood said:
Ankerson, how does the 120g edge pro stone hold up on those steels? I dished mine pretty good reprofiling the Umnumzaan :)

BTW, you're videos have actually taught me to use the EP without cursing. So easy just to not move the knife.
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If the blades are thin I don't even need to use it, but in general it holds up well, light pressure is your friend.

I have found if the blades are thin enough behind the edge the steel doesn't really matter that much and I can cut them with the 320 or 600 EP stones like nothing.

Even very high alloy steels like 10V at high hardness like 64+ only takes seconds to bring up a burr with the 600 grit EP Stone if they are thin enough behind the edge, the stones do cut pretty fast.

Now with production blades or blades that have to have a lot of steel removed it can be a lot of work.
 
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My 120 Grit Edge Pro stone has held up well. So far Ive re profiled CPM S30V, CPM M4, 1095 and 13C26 steel. No dishing or any damage at all.
 
merkava001 said:
Don't waste your time and go for ROCKSTEAD,
Here's a link :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6kedsPSBnc&feature=related
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Rockstead is interesting, they take steels like YXR-7 and ZDP-189 and run them at very high hardness, the knives are high quality and the blade designs are good along with the custom edge geometry that is pretty strong, something that would really be needed running those steels that hard and they are running them as hard as they can possibly get them.

They seem to get good results though, but at the cost of those blades I would expect they should.

In the end a good custom in S110V, S125V, 10V, 15V with a great HT will do the same or better performance wise as those steels can also be run at high hardness and have the Alloy content to really hold an edge.

It's all interesting stuff though to be sure.
 
I'm hoping S125V will impress me. I don't know about you, but reprofiling S110V inside of 15 minutes tends to make one cocky;).
 
Think you may see a difference in S125V
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It all will depend on the grind, and the hardness of the steels. Either one at max hardness is very, very wear resistant. We're talking in the 10V range or higher. Possibly nearing 15V.
 
The Mastiff said:
It all will depend on the grind, and the hardness of the steels. Either one at max hardness is very, very wear resistant. We're talking in the 10V range or higher. Possibly nearing 15V.
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Yeah S125V is over the top definitely and at max hardness it would really be something.

S110V is the steel though, around 63-64 nothing else stainless will touch it except S125V with that high alloy content.
 
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