Options for rustless carry

I won't dispute your experience but I haven't had the same happen to me. But I always eventually get back to cleaning my stuff within 24 hours. For extreme cases I would go 440a. I think it's a great inexpensive edc alternative for some models like the trapper. 440a doesn't quite appeal to me in a framelock or other knife types of course, lol. But I do like it in a trapper especially from Rough Rider who do a decent job at certain traditional patterns.
 
I’ve had permanent staining on one or two of my 8cr knives, but never any pitting. I’ve had the same thing happen with XHP. For day to day use I’m 100% confident in both, but I surely wouldn’t go swimming with either steel.


As to the OP, serrated H1 is a great steel. I’m loving my Tasman.

P7i5m5y.jpg
 
I won't dispute your experience but I haven't had the same happen to me. But I always eventually get back to cleaning my stuff within 24 hours. For extreme cases I would go 440a. I think it's a great inexpensive edc alternative for some models like the trapper. 440a doesn't quite appeal to me in a framelock or other knife types of course, lol. But I do like it in a trapper especially from Rough Rider who do a decent job at certain traditional patterns.
Agreed on the 440a. I never had a problem with aus6 (very similar, some early SOGs were said to be 440a but were actually aus6).

I’ve had permanent staining on one or two of my 8cr knives, but never any pitting. I’ve had the same thing happen with XHP. For day to day use I’m 100% confident in both, but I surely wouldn’t go swimming with either steel.


As to the OP, serrated H1 is a great steel. I’m loving my Tasman.

P7i5m5y.jpg
Spyderco serrated h1 is great stuff.
 
I had not given paracord a serious thought, it may be the way to go.

I've been carying a Ben Tendick with paracord on the sheath. Not complicated. The para is run through a few holes. It can be looped over the belt like a static cord and worn "sash" style. But typically for the kydex one, I slide the belt through the loops, and carry horizontal in front of right hip. With the "static cord" looped arround the belt twice to snug it up.
 
In my experience, 8Cr13Mov is not particularly resistant to corrosion. If you like this family of budget-friendly Chinese steels, 7Cr17Mov is more stainless and has a lot of similarities to 440a. Unless you really love a knife in 7Cr17Mov though, you're probably better off with 9Cr18Mov. I've only had a few knives that use it but overall, it seems to perform better than other members of that family.

Of course, I wouldn't expect any of those to compete with some of the super steels or exotic materials that have been discussed here. I feel like 9Cr18Mov could compete with 14C28N. I'd choose VG-10 over either. My budget tops out around a hundred bucks though...
 
I don't know for certain, but the Ark looks like it might be spaced properly for a Spyderco G-Clip.

Alternatively, you could lash it to your belt with paracord. I prefer this method over g clips and tecklocks.
I regret to say the spacing is slightly off for a G Clip. I forgot to ask Spyderco about it until after the sheath mold had been designed.

John Shirley
 
Dang...thanks y'all I almost forgot about Boye Knives.
I think a Boye knife is going to be my next purchase :)
Next purchase is going to have to wait a little while though :rolleyes:
 
The only proper rust free steels I know of are LC200N and H1, but options for both are fairly limited. That said, M390 and Elmax were designed for cutting in corrosive environments so they have some of the highest corrosion resistance you can get on super steels. Another good set of options are N680 for nitrogen and low carbon (while being highly alloyed for acceptable performance) and BD1N for moderate nitrogen which adds a ton of corrosion resistance and gives it pretty nice edge holding.
 
As others have said, David Boyd’s dendritic cobalt folders are great alternatives if someone isn’t interested in Spyderco’s Salt line. I have two of them; a combo-edge leaf-blade and a serrated sheepsfoot. If you’ll be cutting lots of rope or fibrous material, I’d recommend the sheepsfoot version. I also really like the marlin spike option, as there are many uses for it.

The only issue might be that Boyle’s boat folders cost considerably more than Spyderco’s lightweight Salts, if you’re on a budget.

Jim
 
Boye is a pretty small outfit. He or his wife answered the phone the few times I've called. I damaged a fixed blade and David Boye reground it. Not really the same as Spyderco and well worth the extra money.

His folder design, materials and construction has been refined over more years than many firms have been around. He "wrote the book" on it with his first edition coming out in 1977 and the second in 2001.
 
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