Orange Paramilitary2 show & tell

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Talley1013 said:
I have noticed it also. Both my M390 and S35VN were sharpened like this. I don't get it. It seems like the P2's are either over ground or under ground and never quite right.
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What would an "over ground" error look like? Its obvious if the primary edge does not quite make it to the ricasso but I am not sure what you are refering to about the other condition.
 
Fat Goat Forge said:
What would an "over ground" error look like? Its obvious if the primary edge does not quite make it to the ricasso but I am not sure what you are refering to about the other condition.
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It looks like the person doing the sharpening ground off too much steel. I have had them where the size of the blade in length and height is considerably smaller than a blade that is properly ground.
 
Interesting stuff. Personally, I have never been happy with the treatment of the edge at the plunge/ricasso (even on non Spydercos). I just figure on customizing this area on any knife I get that I plan to use.

Spyderco seems to prefer to leave a kick/sharpening stop there on most knives and other companies use a drop off or notch in the area. Either approach basically leaves a dull portion of blade near in this area.
 
Speaking of PM2 sprints. How many are there now?

Spyderco amazes me with the volume of great sprints on nice platforms in recent times. People often complain about some aspects, but I see few other offerings that compare to recent variants of the PM2 and the Military...other than customs.
 
unit said:
Speaking of PM2 sprints. How many are there now?

Spyderco amazes me with the volume of great sprints on nice platforms in recent times. People often complain about some aspects, but I see few other offerings that compare to recent variants of the PM2 and the Military...other than customs.
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There's a lot and someone in the exchange is selling an entire set of all PM2s + a short run P1.
 
I kind of get the idea that the ricasso sharpening bit is a damned if you do, damned if you don't type situation. It's hard to sharpen that area just right, and it seems as though in order to get it right, you often end up sharpening more off the blade than many here would like. When that happens, the microscopes come out and people get all twitchy. On the other hand, if they avoid sharpening that area in order to avoid oversharpening that area, people get twitchy about that too. (Not to say any of you guys are being twitchy about it...just my experience). At the end of the day though, the edge bevel is the main part of the knife that's actually user serviceable. If it's a knife you intend on using, sharpen it and it'll work it's way out over time. Just my two cents.
 
Fat Goat Forge said:
What would an "over ground" error look like? Its obvious if the primary edge does not quite make it to the ricasso but I am not sure what you are refering to about the other condition.
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I can show you in a video, if you'd like.

They definitely do "over grind" some of their knives near the ricasso.
 
Not a para, but a Yojimbo. I also hate that grey area near the ricasso - sharp, not sharp, sloppy, uneven, whatever. So, I do something about it (30 seconds with a Dremel and a 1/8" diamond bit). Probably voids warranty, but I'm OK with that:
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
I can show you in a video, if you'd like.
They definitely do "over grind" some of their knives near the ricasso.
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Well glad then that mine was under rather than over as I can correct under LOL but can't put back steel if too much was removed. Well hopefully they will figure out how to do that step better.

On a positive note this is my first Paramilitary and used it all day for horse farm chores and just made a big salad using it for slicing and have to say its my favorite Spyderco so far of the 6 I have. I would say this is my second favorite steel right behind M-4.

I have an orange delica in VG-10 which I enjoy when I want to carry a light knife, an orange urban rescue that I keep on me to cut free livestock and reserve for that purpose so its always sharp, A Gayle Bradley that I carry for real hard use farm days (love that M-4), a UKPK in gin-1 in maroon that I rotate in on light knife days, and a dragonfly in ZDP189 for "ultralight" knife days. Love em all but best EDC for a full size knife day will be the new PM2 in orange.

I look forward to the green sprint I have on preorder as CTS-204P (M390) is full of carbides and it would be cool to have a real hard use steel PM2 and I dont like the blue handle or the Bento Box price point for the M390 model. If they ever do a PM2 sprint in M4 I'll have to get that too.

The lady at the cutlery shoppe told me when I gave credit card info that they are emailing out at about the rate that they can take the calls and ship so hang in there everybody this one is worth the short wait that remains as they go thru the list.

Really enjoying the PM2 platform and the XHP steel. Great all around EDC. I hope we see more manufacturers using XHP and more spyderco's in XHP. Just a nice steel.
 
RLR said:
Not a para, but a Yojimbo. I also hate that grey area near the ricasso - sharp, not sharp, sloppy, uneven, whatever. So, I do something about it (30 seconds with a Dremel and a 1/8" diamond bit). Probably voids warranty, but I'm OK with that:
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Could you tell me what bit exactly you used? I am probably going to do this to all of my Spydies.
 
Sharpening choil. Nicely done. I've seen people do that with a Dremel and change the temper with indiscriminate grinding that overheats the edge. Your work looks great.

RLR said:
Not a para, but a Yojimbo. I also hate that grey area near the ricasso - sharp, not sharp, sloppy, uneven, whatever. So, I do something about it (30 seconds with a Dremel and a 1/8" diamond bit). Probably voids warranty, but I'm OK with that:
Click to expand...
 
Low and slow. It's just a 1/8" diameter rod with diamond coating. In a set from Lee Valley here in Canada.
I'll post a pic of it later.
 
RLR said:
Low and slow. It's just a 1/8" diameter rod with diamond coating. In a set from Lee Valley here in Canada.
I'll post a pic of it later.
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Thanks! Hopefully I can find something like that around here. I really, really, want to do that to mine.

I'll keep the RPM as low as possible, and quench the blade every few seconds. Should keep it WELL under the annealing threshold.
 
Most of my user Spydies have a sharpening choil. I use a small round diamond file and it works like a charm.
 
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