Oregon Blade Maker Grinder

If you've got 220VAC 1ph, that's all you need for VFD with a 3 ph motor. That's how most all of us get the variable speed grinders, except for the folks who use DC motors. Yes, that will "work" just fine, and might actually be easier for you than a 56C frame motor. To make use of a 56C frame motor you'll need a bracket to mount the motor to. With a lathe you can make the bracket pretty easy. With the motor linked to, you can just bolt it down to the base of the grinder and go from there. I know other folks have got this to work, and you could even use an adjustable base for the motor to provide the belt tracking rather than the tension wheel.

Now I remember, you're looking at the Oregon Blade Maker Grinder - you'll need a nice plate of aluminum (or steel) at least 3/8" would be nice for the aluminum to bolt the grinder and motor to. Then perhaps a set screw to adjust angle of motor to tweak in alignment nicely. Should work like a champ.

Ken H>
 
Thanks Ken, I ended up getting a WEG motor (1800rpm, 145t, tefc)/ Teco L510 vfd combo at Dealers Electric for $268 plus shipping ($65)....hope I did okay. I know the vfd isn't sealed so I'll have to make an enclosure. I'm just trying to stay married (not spend too much) (:
Luckily I have an electrician friend to help with that. I made a sturdy bench from an old solid core door, and I'm wondering if should bolt right to it, or if I need a metal mounting plate, like I've heard mentioned. The wood stabilizing and kydex sheath making seems to be going well! I'd post a pic or two if I knew how, lol. Again, I'm a totally new to forums, so I'm not sure if anyone will see this comment...but if so, how far from the grinder should my drill press/etc be since they have open motors? Thanks very much again.

Marc
 
If the platen is aluminum make sure to overlay it will a piro ceran glass or similar pretty quick it will be all chewed up before you know it.
Frank
 
I believe the platens are hardened A2. I'd still get the glass liner. And I just screwed mine to the top of the table I made for it which is a piece of plywood on one of those harbor freight grinder stands.
 
Marc - be sure to post a couple of photos of your finished grinder when you get it working - and tell us how it works.

Ken H>
 
Thanks Frank, and yes Phorizt, it definitely looks to be a steel. The glass sounds like a great idea. Do you guys make your own, or buy the glass platen? Phorizt, it's great to hear that, I spoke with Marinus at Oregon Blade Maker, and he also says yes, I can bolt it right to the table. He's excellent to deal with also...answering questions happily.
Ken, I absolutely will...it's so cool to be a part of such a great online community. I'm so grateful for the help.
I just ordered steel today, 1084, cpm154 and cpm3v, from Aldo as per so many recommendations here, and I've already got an order for a bushcraft blade, with wood scales (which I'm very partial to). Thanks again gents.

Marc
 
Howdy folks, I was asked to post after I got my new grinder going, so here she is (yes it's a gal). Marinus from Oregon Blade Maker was very helpful, and although I'm new to grinding, I've used tools professionally all my life. I would say the quality definitely lives up to my expectations. I bought a motor /v vfd combo from Dealers Electric Motor- Weg 1.5hp/ Teco L510. Can hardly wait for my steel to arrive from Aldo. Here's a link to just a quick video, advice and questions are very welcome, thanks!

https://youtu.be/rKEAMrz_VZo
 
Just out of curiosity, why is your vfd so far away from your grinder? Seems like a pita if you want to change speed while grinding. Is there a kill switch or something near the grinder?
 
I figured that it would be safer from metal dust since it's not a sealed unit, and I really didn't want to spend more on a sealed box right now. I don't have a switch for it yet, but figured I'd add a speed pot with switch in the near future.
 
Okay, it took awhile but I've got her working. I wanted to share a quick video as Ken had asked for pics. I figured this shows more than a couple of pics would. The setup is much quieter than expected (there's a box fan running), and it seems to track perfectly. Marinus from Oregon Blade Maker was (still is) fantastic to deal with! Thanjs again gentlemen.

https://youtu.be/rKEAMrz_VZo
 
I go to a glass cutting shop and let them know what I want and in what size. You want the heat resistant glass about 3/16" thick often used in fire place stoves. The cost has always been low like less than $10 a piece. I do my own edge finishing however with an old 120 grit or finer silicon carbide cork belt. They are also available from USA knifemaker Supply
 
Thank you Frank, I'll definitely look into that. Sounds like a nice, inexpensive and simple improvement to make.
 
That looks good and thanks for posting video. You've got motor bolted to the plywood base?

Ken H>
 
Thanks Ken, I used an old solid core door for the bench, and it's bolted to that. Feels very sturdy so far. I used some big washers to get a stable grip. Steel should be here Saturday so we'll see!
 
Would you guys recommend that I move the vfd closer, or just attach a speed pot/switch? And...I'm thinking I should pick up a buffer. I've read threads here about the dangers and recommendations. I've been using power tools professionally for 25 years, but have arthritis in my hands which weakens them a little. I'm wondering if a buffer would be best for finishing or maybe something else. I'm not interested in mirror finishes. Oh, and I've got an old knife I inherited from my grandfather I'd love to see if someone could possibly identify. Where would I post a pic on here? Thanks again!
 
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So I got my order in today from Aldo. Cpm3v, 1084, and cpm154. The high carbons are clean but the stainless has surface rust. Is that normal for a stainless? Thanks!
 
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