ot: Anyone know anything about chain saws?

Ok.. well the guy at the shop kinda talked me into a ms250 but I'm taking it back tomorrow. Haven't used it. I think I'm going to just buy the 290 Farm Boss. It's a little heavy but I think it should do all that I want it too. Basically I want to cut all the dead limbs of the bottom of the pine trees, cut up some firewood, and process some stumps.

I have a question for those who know. How will cutting through fatwood stumps affect the chain saw (stihl 290). Basically all the stumps around here are fatwood, full of resin, and Hard as a ROCK. Anything I should know before I cut into them?

Here's a pic of the stumps here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=703815


the pic at the top is a stump still in the ground and the one at the bottom of the thead huge stump that's been uprooted for the most part.
 
cutting resin/sap/pitch rich wood will gum up the bar and chain pretty quick. If your cutting such stumps, DILUTE the bar oil 50% with turpentine. It will help with the gumming. Afterwards, soak your chain in pure turp or kerosene and scrub well.

you got some great saw choices there, ANY of them you wont be disappointed.
 
Bushman5 said:
cutting resin/sap/pitch rich wood will gum up the bar and chain pretty quick. If your cutting such stumps, DILUTE the bar oil 50% with turpentine. It will help with the gumming. Afterwards, soak your chain in pure turp or kerosene and scrub well.

you got some great saw choices there, ANY of them you wont be disappointed.
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Thanks.. do you think the 290 will be a better all around saw? Some of the pine tree's here are very big. Or do you think the ms250 would be sufficiant?
 
the farm boss has little (not by much, but noticeable) more torque to it, and can handle a larger bar (if i recall 24" MAX length, more than you will ever need).

since you havent used the 250, why not take it back in the morning and get the farm boss!

btw, if there is a logger or arborist in your area, ask them if they would demonstrate how kickback happens, it can be a real eye opener to see how fast it happens and what conditions it happens. Most loggers/arbs are happy to pass along saw safety tips. Buy em beer after.
 
Bushman5 said:
the farm boss has little (not by much, but noticeable) more torque to it, and can handle a larger bar (if i recall 24" MAX length, more than you will ever need).

since you havent used the 250, why not take it back in the morning and get the farm boss!

btw, if there is a logger or arborist in your area, ask them if they would demonstrate how kickback happens, it can be a real eye opener to see how fast it happens and what conditions it happens. Most loggers/arbs are happy to pass along saw safety tips. Buy em beer after.
Click to expand...

Just watched some youtube video's on kickback. Good info. That would be easy to do.

I'm fairly sure I'm going to get the 290 tomorrow. So I guess my question was if you could only have one saw between the two would it be the 290?
 
helmet with metal mesh face mask is the bees knees, nothing to scratch up and keeps those pesky wood chips and other flying debris from pelting your face.
 
THere are some great videos on youtube to help with chainsaw safety, but as with all things, take them with a grain of salt. There is an arborist forum too that has some great guys on it willing to give newbies information. Just make sure to look at the FAQs and search engine first:
http://www.arboristsite.com/
 
I won't run a saw without hardhat, face mesh, earmuffs, chaps and steel toes. I know too many people who have been nibbled on to not. besides my dad's whole family has been loggers, so if I cut into my foot with a saw, I'd never live it down. better to laughed at for my funny hat and pants, than end up in the ER.
 
Newknife sent me this pic of his new saw. :thumbup:

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you know NewKnife, your welcome to send us Wet Coast BC'ers some of that snow Eh?:D
 
BTW, i see you have been managing your land very well, trimming up the trees. Thats a great piece of land, nice and open, with trees. Reminds me a lot of Lilloet BC in winter.
 
Here's a couple pic's from today. I had to sharpen my chain about 4 times just to cut up this stump. Took a while but I finally made it (these are the pic's before I was finihsed).

002.jpg


001.jpg
 
Nice. I should have gone with a Stihl or Husq. I bout a Poulan and the chain slacks out constantly and I have to always reset it. Takes forever to get anything done. Anyone know how to fix that? Other than buying a Stihl.
 
Spaulding, I wonder if the bar isn't installed with all the hardwear it should be, or if those washers and such are worn out?
 
gadgetgeek said:
Spaulding, I wonder if the bar isn't installed with all the hardwear it should be, or if those washers and such are worn out?
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Being that I know zilch about chainsaws I am not entirely certain about the hardware you are referring to. I think everything that is there now was there when I bought it.
 
Capt,
It could be the chain. Some chains are pre-streched, some are not. If the chain is new it will have more stretch. It should stretch less overtime. Being a Poulan it probably came with some crap chain. I would also make sure that you are tightening the nut that holds the bar on properly. If so check to make sure the tensioner inside the sprocket cover is seated properly. I have seen them pop out of place so that they arent really putting any directional presure on the bar. After you tighten the chain, especially if you threw it, rotate the chain by hand a few times after you have it adjusted to where you want it. Sometimes you need to start it, then tighten it again.

If none of that works replace the chain with a stihl brand chain. You will probably have to get it at a saw shop. I truthfully prefer most Husky saws but Stihl makes great chain. It is really an upgrade from most chain, IMO.

That looks like beautiful country Newknife. Is the 390 built on the same case as the 290? Have fun!

IMG_1926.jpg
 
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