OT: Woodchuck advice wanted: fishing knife

Originally posted by Aardvark
......I'm thinking that the whole thing will look kind of, well, unfinished. Sort of like a face with no eyebrows.

Should I be considering a bolster/guard of some kind? And if so, what material?

Thanks again.
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Vark I wouldn't, however I would shape the handle as close as possible to the handles on the Scandanavian knives, at least the two I have.
The handles sort of taper toward the front a little and are in sort of an ellipitical shape, like an egg sideways.
The widest part of the handle is the back or top side. One of my Scandia knives has a well shaped ridge along the top of the handle that's about 1/4" thick and maybe 1/8" larger in size than the area just below it.
This ridge prevents the edge of the knife to come in contact with any flat surface its layed on.
It also prevents the knife from rolling off any flat surface.
The Rapala Fillet Knives are made with a similar handle and everyone knows what they look like, but then again they were made in Scandia too.:)
I love this shaped handle on a fillet knife as they're very comfortable to use when cleaning a whole lot of fish, cleaned over 50 Crappie with mine one time when I got really lucky.:D
The Rapalas have a slip over piece on the wood handle at the intersection of handle and blade to make it look better, but I like simple if it's just gonna be a work knife and not for
show.
However "IF" you wanted to do something like it though you could get a copper pipe cap, near the size of the finished handle on the small end, and drill some small holes across the center a little smaller than the blade.
(You could also cut the length off a little if it's too long to look right.)
Then use a small flat file to fit it to the blade tightly.
Then simply round off the small end of the handle to fit inside the cap.
Then when you got ready to assemble it put the JB Weld in the hole in the handle, smear a little around the end of the taped up handle, slip on the cap, slide in the blade and Viola!!!!
Then after the JB hardens a little remove the tape from the handle and blade and use a really sharp fine bladed knife to clean up any run overs and outs.:)
You can use some Flitz or whatever to polish up the copper to make it look really pretty or just let it tarnish to a nice greenish
patina.
 
Ok, we won't call it a 'spacer', since I don't have any intention of fastening a 1/2" of anything on the front. Maybe a 'front cap'?
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Works for me :)

Looks like Ragweed Forge calls them "guard plates" even if they don't extend past the handle to form a "finger guard".

Took me a couple of tries to get something close to acceptable. Make sure to use a drill smaller than the final slot needs to be. Your skill (or lack of) will determine how much smaller.;) You need material left so that the slot can be cleaned up with little files to final shape without getting too big. I have a set of six in different shapes and one made for filing spark-plug gaps is handy too.

From the number of times I've seen this come up on the maker's forum, precisely fitting a guard is one of the things the good makers get the $$ for. At least that's the excuse I use for mine being crappy, since I haven't gotten any money :)

A search of that forum should yield links to web tutorials and other stuff. Mostly just makes me wish I had a shop-space and more tools though.


Have fun.:)
 
Sounds like that little extra piece of metal may be the toughest part. (I reserve the right to, at some point to scream "______ it", and leave it straight wood.)

I'll spend some time tonight looking around the web for pictures, and try to decide.

Yvsa, I'll look for the Rapala Fillet Knives that you mention, too.
 
A. Vark,

"Sounds like that little extra piece of metal may be the toughest part."

It's sure not easier than the rest:)

I didn't put one on my first couple attempts.

I did use blades with full-length tangs and fabricated brass butt-plates with holes to match the tang and peened the tang over to make a rivet before the glue set up..

That's easier to make and the expanded rivet hides little screw-ups. (I softened the end of the tangs by heating to red color and trying to cool slowly in a can of wood ash--dunno if it helped or not). Maybe start with those if you want to try making fittings.

You might be able to use or modify one of the guard plates that Ragweed Forge sells too.

What fillet blade are you using?
 
Joe,

Let me make my case for getting one of these:

99fram.jpg


The hole is already cut for you and you don't have to be so careful when you drill into the oak handle. The opening in the oak doesn't have to be a perfect rectangle because the guard covers it.

This greatly simplifies everything.

It's sometimes tough to get everything to line up right, but it's much easier than trying to hollow a perfect rectangle - keep in mind that all the irregularities of your tang opening will show...

You can get these from any knife shop (ragweed included). Get the stainless steel kind - for corrosion resistance.

In the end, you'll have a great looking knife.

You'll see all the mistakes, but amazingly enough - you're friend won't...:D
 
Firkin,

I guess A. Vark is better than A. H____. Didn't think of that when I chose the name.

Anyway, the fillet blade is this one

http://www.ragweedforge.com/549.jpg

It's an Eriksson blade, but without the odd tang configuration that you mentioned earlier.

Dan, I'll order one of those, or one of the others that Ragnar offers. I need some more sharpening supplies anyway. He has a great site, for those of you who haven't visited, and he's a great guy.

Yvsa, the handle was modelled after:

http://www.ragweedforge.com/711.jpg

and actually looks a little like it. The front, however is much thicker: about the same height, but 3/8" wider. I'll have to see how those end caps look when I get them, and decide what to do about that.

The above knife (#711) is a fantastic knife for the price ($11). Easy to sharpen with ceramic rods, and gets one heII of an edge. I have one for the kitchen, and another for the garden.

Yeah, I know: I could have gotten a complete Eriksson fillet knife for $2 less than I paid for the blank. Wouldn't have taught me anything, though.
 
The issue of parts cost vs. finished product value comes up all the time over in the ShopTalk forum (probably where this thread belongs...Bill = thanks for not moving it).

Anyway, with a few exceptions, a knife project always seems to cost around $50-$70 (if you make your own blade... + cost of belts, etc.). The reason for the extreme differences in retail value is purely the labor involved.

Next time you see a fancy knife, take the price and subtract $50. Divide that by 10 (or 20) and imagine working on a knife for that many hours...

Sure helps put the whole picture into perspective. The funniest part is that the steel is the cheapest part of the knife (excepting damascus) yet the most important element.

Best of luck, Joe.

One thing's for sure - once you start, you won't be able to stop. I think I'm on number 14 (I've lost count already...:rolleyes: ) and I have a pile of 9-10 others waiting to be finished up. Most are for fun, a few are/were gifts.

If I do this next one right, it'll really knock your socks off. I can't disclose the facts right now, but I'll keep you posted. (Don't hold your breath, though...most of these take several weekends for me to finish...:yawn: )
 
Here's a picture of the first Nordic knife I made:

attachment.php


Lots of fun.

I included it because you may end up with a similar guard condition if the SS guard you order is smaller than the front end of the handle. It is also a stick tang and the guard hid my mistakes nicely...:D
 
Here's a picture of the first Nordic knife I made:
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Wow. I think I've just gotten severely depressed. My handle had no finish on it, but it can't possibly look that good.

Never mind. I'll concentrate on being glad that the whole thing doesn't fall apart if someone looks too hard at it.

My ambition is still (and I ain't stopping til I have something decent to show for it) to make some kind of blade out of an old file or and old leaf spring (this is your fault, Sarge).
 
"this is your fault Sarge"

Who me? Just wait Joe, making knives is a lot like HIKV, you can't quit at just one, you'll be hooked, bwahaha.

Which filet knife blade, the Eriksson, or one of the Helles? Those hilt plates Ragnar sells are for the Karesuandos, and might not fit your filet blade properly. Not to worry, go to Lowe's hardware and buy a strip of brass. Use a center punch and drill to make a line of closely spaced holes that's not quite as thick or wide as your blade's tang. Use needle files (pick them up when you go get the brass) to "connect the dots". Keep filing until you've got a perfect fit. Messed up? You still got a whole strip of brass left that you paid two and a half bucks for, so try again until you get it right. Me, I just chunk the whole thing in there when I'm gluing the blade to the hilt, and once the epoxy sets, use a fine tooth saw, file, and sandpaper to trim away the excess brass and get the hilt plate down flush with the handle material. No sweat.

Have fun, but work safe, every blade I've ever got from Ragnar was dadgummed sharp. My fault, thanks Joe, I consider that a complement.

Sarge
 
Yeah, Sarge, you started the wheels moving with 'Don't throw away your old files'. Sounds innocent, doesn't it? HAH!

The blade is an Eriksson, and you're right, Ragnar says his guard caps won't work (openings way too wide). The brass plate idea sounds worth trying.

And I WILL be careful. The blade is like a scalpel.

I'm almost afraid to say it, but for a first try, I'm very pleased with the way the handle has turned out. It's been a whole lot of fun so far. Much of the enjoyment has been in interacting with the people who have helped with this thread. But you already knew that.
 
Joe, next time you order a blade(s) from Ragnar, make sure and get a couple of the 3 1/2" carving blades in high carbon steel. Those are for traditional style Swedish wood carving knives, but they make incredible kitchen/bird & trout knives. Small knives are relatively quick and easy to make, good practice before moving on to the bigger ones. Get a bunch, have fun experimenting with handle combinations and sheaths, then put 'em away to have ready for any appropriate occasion to gift a friend with a good knife. Seeing the look on their face is as much fun as making the knife was.;)

Sarge
 
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