Outdoor/Camping/Survival Knife Preferences

I seem to prefer drop point or spear type blades, between 4 and 7 inches, from .15 to .25 inches thick, and with a longer yet thinner handle. The problem with that, however, is that it is a wide range of preferences.

Bark River Bravo 1 fits your description. The handle is 5" or so, with a 4.25" blade that is 0.20" thick. I've used mine for everything from carving tools to processing firewood and they've always performed well. It's also compact enough to hide under an untucked t-shirt in a busy area.

The handles are contoured and provide a very secure grip. I highly recommend micarta or G10 for hard use.

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I made my own kydex:

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keep an eye out on the for sale by maker sub forum. There are many excellent blades available.
 
Personally I gave up on big choppers and went with a saw for heavy cutting, it is quiet, safe and easy to use in awkward angles when working on dead wood still in the tree.

This has been my experience too, but I admit my bias may be shaped by my local woods. In New England, we have a lot of tinder like birch and balsam that is easy enough to light. Splitting wood to get to dry tinder is rarely a real need. Much more important to be able to harvest burnable dead fall quickly and a folding saw is much better at that.

Opinel in my pocket. Folding saw in the pack.
 
This has been my experience too, but I admit my bias may be shaped by my local woods. In New England, we have a lot of tinder like birch and balsam that is easy enough to light. Splitting wood to get to dry tinder is rarely a real need. Much more important to be able to harvest burnable dead fall quickly and a folding saw is much better at that.

Opinel in my pocket. Folding saw in the pack.

As a fellow New Englander I have found the opposite works for me. But then I don't backpack or do multi day trips.

I am more of a bush bum, It doesn't matter If I hike 10 miles, 5, or just 2. As long as I am enjoying the woods all day. So I am not carrying much in the way of support gear. The closest thing to shelter I carry in my bag is a poncho and 2 person heatsheet. So for me a small axe is best. I can throw together a decent winter overnight shelter real quick with my little 10" Wetterlings, if needed. Plus I find it works just fine in taking down standing dead-fall for a quick cooking fire, when the snow is covering the ground.


So it's a SAK in my pocket, F1 on my belt, and hand axe in my bag. In our warmer months the axe stays home, the F1 can handle the heavy lifting.
 
Dayhiker,

What kind of lands do you hike on in which you build shelters regularly? I do nearly all of my hiking on federal lands and refrain from harvesting new growth and try to limit my harvest of dead fall to bare minimum. I will make fires at established campsites if there is an established fire ring and plentiful dead fall. Obviously would start a fire on my mother's grave if survival was needed.

I assume you prefer the small hatchet for felling and delimbing small trees like balsam, yes? I agree on that.
 
Dayhiker,

What kind of lands do you hike on in which you build shelters regularly? I do nearly all of my hiking on federal lands and refrain from harvesting new growth and try to limit my harvest of dead fall to bare minimum. I will make fires at established campsites if there is an established fire ring and plentiful dead fall. Obviously would start a fire on my mother's grave if survival was needed.

I assume you prefer the small hatchet for felling and delimbing small trees like balsam, yes? I agree on that.

Private land. When on State or Federal land I still bring the hatchet, But don't get to play with it.:(
 
Read this review on the new Bark River Bravo 1.5 and you will see that this is one of the best knives, if not the best at this time on the market for the money. I got mine in S35VN and without a swedge and it's a dandy!
 
Lots of good suggetions here...that Bravo 1.5 looks pretty sweet...

As for me, I've pretty much settled on a short list knives as my go-to's depending the situation. My primary heading to the woods blade is a Busse NMSFNO w/ a folder and gear in the sheat pocket. The TankBuster rocks too. The SwampRat Rodent 6 is a heckava lot of knife for the $$, tho a little thicker than you want...

However, depending on your budget, I'd also point you towards NWA knives...he makes incredible blades...well worth is asking price...and there's that little thing called pride of ownership too...

Also, you can't go wrong with Bob Dozier...his KS7 Wilderness knife is worth a look.

BOSS
 

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That Becker BK-16 looks like a heck of a bargain. It's their Cro-Van right? Did you get the full flat grind? If would have one if it had been on the market when I purchased my RAT-7.

Yes. 1095 Carbon Steel. I recommend you get one, strip the coating off the blade (it's shit, to be honest), convex the edge, and beat it like a red headed step child.

The sabre ground ones were a limited edition, the "first production run". They were roll-stamped instead of laz0red, had the old (thinner&smoother) coating and were engraved with Ethan Becker's Signature.

The blade could be a little bit thinner for my tastes, but it's okay, at 4,2mm. The handle shape is comfortable as hell, really well thought out.
 
This is always such an elusive topic to discuss; the choices of knives are as varied as the personal experiences and skills. Most of the advice given is solid and from experienced users.

I know you mentioned your activities, but you need to refine your requirements. What do you want the knife to do and are you willing to practice those skills necessary to become proficient?

I love large knives and big choppers, but I honestly don’t carry them much; they’re just too large and cumbersome for the majority of my activities. I may have one in the pack, but I want my primary blade on my person. The most often quoted advice of “the knife you have on you is your ‘survival’ knife” is sage advice. Those that burry their ‘survival’ knife in the bottom of their pack are not practicing that advice.

Since I strongly encourage having that primary knife on your person, it really makes sense to make it a much more manageable size to carry comfortably. A lot of much more experienced knife users will often recommend a fixed blade knife with a blade between 4-5 inches; and for good reason. I would hazard a guess that over 90% of most knife tasks could be completed with this size of belt knife and with some modified methods could even be used for that last 10%, although they may not be the most efficient, they ‘could’ do the job if needed.

As to the style of the knife, that again depends a lot on personal preferences, experience and skill. I personally like a straight clip or spear-pointed tip which gives a decent amount of strength. As much as I like Scandi-grinds, I think a good flat or convex grind is better suited for a wider range of cutting needs. Thickness is really not needed and often means more unnecessary weight. For belt knives, I like to keep them under 3/16”; thinner knives with a wide profile are quite strong and much better cutters. Steel type has an incredible variance. I like good standard high-carbon steels; 1095, 1065, A2, etc. However, I do have knives with more modern steels that perform well. The trick is to find something that is easier to maintain in the field. Carbon needs a little more attention, but I find it easier to keep sharp in the field.

Don’t forget the sheath as part of your system. It’s quite important to have something that not only safely retains your knife, but is easy to access and return. How you carry your knife should seamlessly integrate into your clothing and pack wear.

With all that said, the most frequent blade I carry, even when backpacking (which I carried these past couple of weeks on a total of 40+ miles of backpacking), is a Martin Knives BT model. Yes, it’s a custom and more expensive than most are willing to spend, but a custom knife (of which there are numerous choices here on Bladeforums), can meet your needs but my recommendation would be to first look at some quality “off the shelf” designs, such as ESSE (4), Fallkniven (F1), or Bark River (already mentioned the Bravo-1). I own all and can highly recommend based on my experience and their performance.

My Martin Knives BT model:

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Ironically enough, I ordered this particular model with 1095 steel and they mistakenly sent me an S30V steel variant. It has performed quite well and now has a very good convex edge on it. The sheath is an integral part of my system and includes a small Bird & Trout blade, Fallkniven DC4 sharpening stone and my homemade ferro rods with a pill fob handle holding tinder.

ROCK6
 
I have been backpacking for a long time. Probably somewhere in the 2,000-3,000 mile range. I quit keeping track of it. I've also done LOTS of trail building and maintaining.

For most of those 2,000-3,000 miles my blade was a folding Gerber, about a 2". I rarely ever had a fire. At the end of the day at darkness I would just go to sleep.

I have recently been trying to improve my "bushcraft" skills; primitive firemaking, wood gathering, tinder, etc. I do like the Becker Knives, I only own the BK2 at this time, but I do like the stock handles. I take it car camping with me and play around with it. I recently started carrying a Glock knife at 7 Ounces (which is actually a bayonet and by removing the endcap you can see where it would attach to the firearm) while backpacking mostly for fun. I have tried to kill that knife but can't. Endless pounding on it splitting seasoned oak firewood into smaller sections does not faze it.

I think some of the Becker & KA-BAR sheaths leave something to be desired, but won't matter if you throw it in a pack instead of on your belt.

The one thing I would not want to do without is this; I have cut thousands of small trees, etc. with this while working on trails. Be careful, it can be dangerous....very sharp. Here it is, the Silky Pocketboy:

http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/p...sp?mi=26281&title=Silky+Pocketboy+Folding+Saw

I like the 130mm in the large tooth size. You can buy different blades for it that are finer. This works well when I do want a fire while backpacking. Good for household uses as well. I use it all the time to cut up 2x4's, etc. These saws are the Rolls Royce of saws and priced like them too. I own 2 or 3 different Silky models and would not even consider purchasing another brand.

I would almost rather have the Silky saw with a spare blade than a knife in a winter survival situation. I could saw down dead limbs all day in the Missouri woods very quickly which the quickness is pretty important.

Good Luck!!!
 
For their price, they are really good knives. But you can't compare them with Busse's, Swamp Rat's or, Bark River's.

You have to know that's going to cause blow-back from Becker fans. I think the only you thing you can factually say is that INFI is a superior steel to any 1095, but beyond that your getting too much into personal preferences
 
Buddy, I have fumbled around with knives for a while. Some useful buys, some more in the toy category, all were fun though so no loss. What people here have guided me toward is my present incarnation of a basic kit. 1. A smaller knife that can slice, like a Mora (get an extra back up, they are inexpensive). A hatchet or mid sized axe. But for Gods sake learn how to use it safely. I truly love my little Wetterlings hatchet. And a decent quality folding hand saw. So basicly a 4 inch slicing knife, a hatchet, a folding saw. Or whatever variation on these themes make sense to you.

Cutting, chopping, and sawing were the three skills I learnt in Scouts many years ago
And these three skills need three different tools
Keeping these functions seperate means you do not stress your tools and they do not break
And therefore the tools do not have to be manically uber strong as the modern trend demands

Cutting is a simple knife
Chopping can be a hatchet, long knife, or short machete
Sawing can be a garden pruner, a folding Sliky type, or a bow saw

Your knife choice changes when you carry a knife, a hatchet, and a folding saw
So basically any 4 inch slicing knife
 
The one thing I would not want to do without is this; I have cut thousands of small trees, etc. with this while working on trails. Be careful, it can be dangerous....very sharp. Here it is, the Silky Pocketboy:

Good Luck!!!

Cutting is a simple knife
Chopping can be a hatchet, long knife, or short machete
Sawing can be a garden pruner, a folding Sliky type, or a bow saw

Your knife choice changes when you carry a knife, a hatchet, and a folding saw
So basically any 4 inch slicing knife

Absolutely agree about having a small saw, especially if you plan to make an open fire or if you want to practice primitive shelter building. A small saw makes a big difference, are very efficient and worth their weight for those activities. I would also say, they are often more safe than other chopping with a small knife. Silky, Bahco, even the Sawvivor or Sven are all compact for the pack and very effective tools when it comes to working with wood.

ROCK6
 
I think chopping with a knife is over rated. You buy a really big knife to allow you to chop and then it is so clumsy to use for many other traditional knife tasks. Yeah, I have seen amazing things done with a 22" long machete. I agree with the saw statement. I now carry a Condor Pack Golok as my chopper when I know I am going to be chopping. I'm not fond of hatchets but I find axes to be very efficient tools. I distilled all of this down to carrying my BlackJack 125. I tried the BlackJack 1-7 and didn't like it. Still have it, want to trade some greenbacks for it? :D

Tried the Kabar Becker BK-2 and like it but hate to carry it much. It is just so dang chunky and heavy... too thick for effective slicing, okay for cutting thin trees, and average for chopping at best.

Got a Fallkniven F1 expressly for the purpose of being my new woods knife. Love the thing, but it was expensive and I hate to beat it up in the woods. I highly recommend the Fallkniven fixed blades. They are fine knives!

I used a SOG Seal Pup Elite for a couple years. It is in the same league as my BlackJack 125 and I like it, but like the BlackJack better. Most people don't know about BlackJack knives. They are considered the "poor man's Randall" and are made by Bark River in A2 steel. They are well make and come with a pretty nice leather belt sheath. Never cared for the SOG sheath and have both the kydex and nylon canvas sheaths for it. The larger nylon sheath was useful if I wanted to carry one of the larger SAK's and not have it in my pocket or tucked away in an inconvenient location like a pack.

I basically carry the 125 now and choose between a number of folders, but I have really like having a modest tool set SAK with me.

For a good saw and knife, the SOG Revolver is not a bad knife. I just wouldn't use it real hard. The saw is extremely sharp and well designed.
 
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