Outfitting a shop & some questions.

Widerstand

Widerstand

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
1,497
So for the past two years or so I have been messing around with making my handles, micarta, and wood. I have done of a lot of modding of existing knifes all with hand tools and I think it's about time I start making my own blades.

So I have been buying tools to outfit my shop before I get started.

Currently I have a decent drill press, vise, delta belt sander, and today I scored a JET Bandsaw for $150 on Craigslist and all the handtools I would ever want.

My thought process so far has been that the bandsaw would be great for cutting out handle slabs, the Delta sander I have been using to shape handles, drill press is good enough for accurate holes for the handle and bar stock.

Next on my buying list would be Milwaukee 6238-20 Deep Cut Portable Band Saw and a SWAG Portaband Table for cutting out blanks. Then I need to find a belt grinder.

I have been reading a lot of threads on here but I can't seem to find an answer to some of these questions.

What is a good source for bandsaw blades and what tooth pattern should I get for cutting micarta and hardwoods? Same goes for the Portable bandsaw when I get it.

I am also feeling a bit confused about the belt grinders, seems like there are two many options to wrap my mind around, so any help or suggestions on that would be great. Ive been kind of leaning towards a Grizzly.

As for heat treat I plan on just sending them out.

Some messy shop photos!

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I wasn't going to chime in here but I had to say nice score on the bandsaw! That's a steel!

Seems you are very well set up already. A port-a-band and a belt grinder would make a complete set. As for the belt grinder it all depends on your budget. Check out Coote as well as Grizzly. Have no experience with either and there are tons of threads to point you in the right direction. If you are handy you can build a nice one from plans for a lot less than a KMG.
 
strider214 said:
I wasn't going to chime in here but I had to say nice score on the bandsaw! That's a steel!

Seems you are very well set up already. A port-a-band and a belt grinder would make a complete set. As for the belt grinder it all depends on your budget. Check out Coote as well as Grizzly. Have no experience with either and there are tons of threads to point you in the right direction. If you are handy you can build a nice one from plans for a lot less than a KMG.
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Thanks, I had to drive 40 miles for it but it was well worth it I think.

As for a belt grinder I would like to keep it under $1000 but under $800 would be better. I am looking at it as an investment that would also have other uses beyond knife making to me since I am getting into light part fabrication as well.

I also plan on getting a variable speed bench grinder with some felt/wool wheels for polishing handles and what not.

Where are these plans you are talking about?
 
Deals are they to be had as you know. I scored my KMG with an 8" wheel, flat platen, tool rest, 1.5 hp motor with variable speed and about 20 new belts for $950 on CL.

Search for GIB (grinder in a box) or NWG (no weld grinder).
 
Thanks guys ill continue to do some research, can anyone point me to a good bandsaw blade source?
 
Nice score on the bandsaw! I would only cut wood on it. Leave the micarta and G10 to your metal cutting bandsaw. That stuff is hard and I've seen sparks fly off of it when using my wood cutting bandsaw. It'll dull a good blade fast. As for tooth count, on the jet, for wood I would use a 4 to 8 tpi tooth count. For cutting wood, a high tpi count will cut smoother, but slower. A low tpi will cut faster but rougher. Since everything I cut will be sanded anyway, I use a low tpi and cut it fast.

For metal, it really depends on the thickness of the metal. On most metal between 3/32 and 3/16", I use a 18-24tpi blade. As a general rule, the thinner the metal, the more tpi you'll want. I like a good quality blade such as a Lennox.
 
Mudbug007 said:
Nice score on the bandsaw! I would only cut wood on it. Leave the micarta and G10 to your metal cutting bandsaw. That stuff is hard and I've seen sparks fly off of it when using my wood cutting bandsaw. It'll dull a good blade fast. As for tooth count, on the jet, for wood I would use a 4 to 8 tpi tooth count. For cutting wood, a high tpi count will cut smoother, but slower. A low tpi will cut faster but rougher. Since everything I cut will be sanded anyway, I use a low tpi and cut it fast.

For metal, it really depends on the thickness of the metal. On most metal between 3/32 and 3/16", I use a 18-24tpi blade. As a general rule, the thinner the metal, the more tpi you'll want. I like a good quality blade such as a Lennox.
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Thanks that's just what I needed to know.
 
I have a grizzly and I love it. But if you're handy and have the space and tools for it, I'd go with a NWG for a little more. From my perspective, these are the problems with the grizzly: (1) fairly bad tracking (manageable, but a PITA). (2) There are no aftermarket mods or replacements for the flat platten (except for ceramic overlays). (3) No way to change the belt speed.
I still believe that the grizzly was the right choice for me (and might be the right choice for you), but consider these issues before you buy one.

- Chris
 
I'd eschew the Grizzly for other machines.... a Coote would be better, the Pheer would be better than that, and if you are a builder, the GIB is potentially the best sub $1000 grinder out there right now.

Variable speed is huge, and rear wheel drive (3 wheel design) is even huger.
 
I would go Coote over Grizzly. I have a Coote, and I wish I had bought the a better grinder, but I get by with the Coote, and lots of the problems that the Griz has I don't have with it. Your 2x72 is the most used, important tool in the shop, save your brain, and if you're sending out for Ht. Make sure you get variable speed, or at least step pulleys.
 
Cody Hofsomme said:
I would go Coote over Grizzly. I have a Coote, and I wish I had bought the a better grinder, but I get by with the Coote, and lots of the problems that the Griz has I don't have with it. Your 2x72 is the most used, important tool in the shop, save your brain, and if you're sending out for Ht. Make sure you get variable speed, or at least step pulleys.
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So you have a variable speed motor on your? Which one?

Coote 2"x 10"x 72" - $530.00
Ceramic Platen Liner 2" x 9" - $28.00
Knife-rest - $35.00
Roller - $145.00

$738

Seems like a good price to me.

That would be in my price range and I think it would be a good start, seems like its not as good as a KMG but will get the job done just fine I think unless there is disagreement on that.
 
If you plan on being involved in knife making for awhile Buy the best variable speed 2X72 you can , it is the workhorse of knife making. The control that a variable speed set up gives you will be well worth the cost.
 
thartman said:
If you plan on being involved in knife making for awhile Buy the best variable speed 2X72 you can , it is the workhorse of knife making. The control that a variable speed set up gives you will be well worth the cost.
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Thanks

My impulsive side says to buy something now but it kind of seems like the general consensus is that it would be worth it to save and have get the best thing I can.

I really appreciate all the reply's and advice.
 
Widerstand said:
Where are these plans you are talking about?
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Ive seen a few places with plans but at the end of the day if you look around on you tube and various 2x72's that are out there its pretty easy to design your own. The limiting factor will boil down to the tools you have available.

I picked up a new leeson TEFC, continuous duty, 120/220v 2hp motor for $250, got a switch and bulk wire from local home depot and wired it up.

Next I purchased the wheels/step pulleys/drive shaft and bearing blocks for about $300 new.

Lastly I bought a bunch of 1/2" thick 6061 aluminum plate and bar stock (along with a 2" x 2" x .250" stainless angle iron for a platen) for about $250.

I went with flat head torx 82 degree bevel screws to put it all together which were a tad spendier than expected but could have saved a bunch by going with regular steel.

I could have saved probably $100 by going with hot rolled steel instead of aluminum but I like the fact the aluminum wont rust and it will be a bit lighter to move around. For me, I dont have a welder or bandsaw so cutting the aluminum will be a lot easier as well since I can just run it thru my tablesaw. I do have the benefit of having a mill with a DRO so making sure my ends are flat and true. I will also be able to mill some of the smaller pieces like for the tracking wheel bracket etc. I even went to the trouble of making a 3d model of it and figured I could also easily make tooling arms to hold buffing wheels etc since shop space is limited.

Like most im on a budget as well and I like making stuff so I figured what better way to get into knife making than by starting with making my own belt grinder.
 
I have a 1750 rpm 1 hp motor. I have the 3 step pulleys on it. IIRC that gives you something like 900 fps, 3000 fps, and 5000 fps. approx.
1 hp gets the job done, but bigger would be better.
 
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