paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

OK, I have a question. I have been reading this thread here and there and I pulled the trigger and my wheels came today. My grit wheel is not true at all. I read the directions about truing, but I think my issue is different. My wheel is wobbling side to side, and not by a little by an 1/8" and it is not a loose bushing either. Now before anyone says it is my grinder, I have put the wheel on THREE of them and it is the same. The polishing wheel is fine. Am I right this is not supposed to be? I can understand a slight hop in the wheel but this thing gets me dizzy watching it spinning by hand.
 
did you get them from grizzly imports, woodcraft or from mike a sharpeningwheels.com? you can send them back and get another one. they are guaranteed against defects.
 
Mike at sharpeneningwheels.com will take care of it.

Call him first before you do anything else.;)
 
Thanks for the replies. I just got off the phone the with Woodcraft. They are sending me out a new kit today with a return label. Great service, but now I have to wait a few more days to have fun. Oh well, time to mix some Duracoat. Other projects to do.
 
i just got mine in a week or so ago... loving these things! now allows me to spend a lot more time with my family instead of sharpening knives all night =) richard has been super helpful in all of this. thanks for your time and help richard!
 
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This is the thread with the perfect name. Thank you Richard!
Richard recommended me to be the Australian rep. Here's from my latest customer:
"
I must say I'm very impressed with the quality of the edges I'm getting in a fraction of the time i used to.

I just resharpened an axe and tomahawk, both were done in a few minutes and both are razor sharp and will slice paper effortlessly.
Normally if i chip an axe at an event it takes about 6 hrs of hard labour to fix, not anymore, its done in minutes now, bloody unbelievable!

Furthermore i have a knife which refuses to take a keen edge, its made of a special cro'moly steel and is a real bitch to get a decent edge on, well not anymore, its never been sharper, it did take longer than anything else though, about 2 minutes longer....lol"

After collecting, using and sharpening knives for over 60 years, the paper wheels are still a revelation to me.
 
Hi folks... Richard or anyone that can help, please jump in. I cannot seem to regrit my wheel to last any time at all. I thoroughly cleaned it and used elmers glu-all. I even tried letting it cure for over 7 days with little change in results. I am using a 3450 rpm grinder but I am planning to purchase a variable speed grinder which should help. can anyone tell me if I am missing something? JUST ADDING WAX REMOVES 75% of the grit. HELP!

Thanks in advance Herb
 
I have had better luck using carpenters wood glue in a -thin- layer. It dosen't seem to fly off like regular white glue.
 
I found that thinning carpenters glue out a little with water works well for me. Get a nice smooth layers on clean wheels and then put the grit, let dry ovrnight and wax. Good luck.
 
if you know the grit wheel has plenty of grit left but it seems to not cut well, take a wire brush about the size of a toothbrush with fine wire bristles and clean the wax off the wheel. this will clean out any small particles of metal or grit and allow the wheels to cut again. remember to apply fresh wax.
 
I got some paper wheels last week from woodcraft and I am getting a new grinder this week. I live in Las Vegas and it gets damn hot here, I am concerned about the heat in the garage ruining my wheels after reading a warning about leaving them in a hot car. What do you guys think?
 
i used to carry my portable setup in my car for many many years with no problems. i also had a set in the basement. i had the slotted wheel in my basement start to seperate but that was after about 17 years. if you are worried about the wheels, take them off the buffer and keep them in your house :D
 
after reading a post in another thread about what paper wheels to buy i thought i should make a post about cheap wheels.

when i first bought a set of wheels and learned how to use them i wished i had bought another set. i found a supplier that had some at a cheaper price. that cheap set is wore out while the good set is still going. there is a big difference in what the wheels i use are made from compared to the cheaper sets which seem to be made from recycled paper like the cheap set i bought.

you can get the good wheels at woodcraft and grizzly imports or from sharpeningwheels.com.
 
I don't have a belt sander, that's why!:D

I'm trying to decide between the belt sander and the wheels, so I thought if I could make a sheath with the wheels than I would get them.
Do you know if you could just use the wheel that comes with the bench grinder?

Erdbeereis
 
Erdbeereis said:
Sorry for the double post.
Would this grinder work?
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Grinders-Bench-Grinders/Buffalo-Tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZas7rZ3pj/R-100670926/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Some people say it stops easily but you would think that since you don't need much pressure it would work.
What do you think?

Erdbeereis
Click to expand...


I use a grinder very similar to that one and it's just fine :)

Not much torque but I don't press hard on the wheels so they never slow down at all.

Wouldn't make a very good grinder but it's good for the wheels, go for it.

You could also put the grinding wheels on and use it as a little grinder if needed.
 
It has been suggested that you should mount the wheels, true them up and then leave them on the shafts in place. So if you are planning on taking the wheels on and off to put the stone wheels back on for kydex work, you will greatly shorten the life of the wheels by mounting and truing them multiple times. Truing the wheel means that you hold solid backed sand paper against the wheel to remove any high part or vibration you would feel in use.
 
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