paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

vandros said:
No doubt, but I still need a guy to substitute him.
Thank you, man.
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I hear ya. There's quite a few guys on here that offer sharpening services using everything from waterstones to Wicked Edge so it depends on your preference and where you're located...
 
Jason B. said:
To say the paper wheels give you better results than anything else is a little arrogant. I'm sure they bring very good results but its not on the same level as a edge that has been worked through the grits. The way the edge is established and the way its finished will determine how sharp it is, finishing with white buffing compound will bring you sharp but finishing with 1 micron diamond compound after working up to that point will produce edges
on the level of a straight razor.

Paper wheels have their place, they are great for a person that has a lot of knives to sharpen or for a business but for every day maintenance its a bit excessive. Some of us like to take our time because we feel it is a art. I've seen a few knives ruined by the paper wheels in the hands of a beginner and more than enough bad grind jobs to realize suggesting them to a new sharpener is not a very good idea.

Calling those of us that use expensive stones and compounds fools is a bit out of line. I don't share my thoughts of the wheels or point out all the flaws in the edges I see produced by them out of respect for you but if you would like that can change.
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government jack said:
knifenut could you elaborate on the flaws in the edges??
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Yes, a few of us would like elaboration on this statement, Jason.
 
Has anybody tried the Gorilla Glue on the grit wheel?

I've tried several methods with the wood glue and none were satisfactory.

I have not tried the 'three-layer' method yet. Will try that if the GG doesn't work.
 
I have tried the wood/carpenters glue, and just plain Elmer's glue. The Elmer"s glue has given me the best results. It is easier to work with, and holds better against the paper. Just make sure to let it dry at least 24 hours before working/trimming the edge, or leveling it out. I haven't tried the "three-layer" method yet either, but will the next time I need to re-grit. I get about 6 to 8 months use out of my grit wheel before it is anywhere near needing to be re-gritted.

Blessings,

Omar
 
+1 on elmer's Glue All. 3 step process. I thought it would be a waste of time. WRONG!
Works like crazy. I sharpen 40 to 50 blades every weekend. Paper wheels, Elmer's. 3 coats.
For production work, can't be beat.
 
I have one of my wheels prepped up for the 3 step process now. Fingers crossed. Hoping for the best.

As far as my Gorilla Glue experiment, I botched it. Turned the buffer on before the glue had a chance to set and it lifted off. Didn't seem to get a good penetration. Still might work and looking for input from others that may have tried it. In other applications, that GG has worked very well for me.
 
I used to get fling off of my wheels .Spoke to the guy who made my wheels back then .He told me go to a forax glue #222 without grain it works.Make sure to have all the old glue off the wheel.I use a 36 grit emery or an old belt backed by a hard wood board with a good square edge to strip the wheel down.It will square up the edge of your wheel and course grit seems to rough up the paper enough to give the glue something to grab onto. Coat the wheel with the glue I keep turning and smoothing it out till the glue gets tacky.Then role it in your grit and leave it set for 24 hrs.Then I use an old worn file with motor running to take off any little globs of glue that may make a high spot and smooth the wheel use light pressure.I've used this method since 1987.Hope this may help.Formax is the only glue that reduces fling off
 
Bill Hoffman said:
+1 on elmer's Glue All. 3 step process. I thought it would be a waste of time. WRONG!
Works like crazy. I sharpen 40 to 50 blades every weekend. Paper wheels, Elmer's. 3 coats.
For production work, can't be beat.
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Tried this. So far, so good. Thanks again!
 
kwackster said:
Since i started working with Paper Wheels back in 2009 i've experimented with quite a few regritting methods, and the recipe below is what has been working best & longest for me:

1 - First remove all traces of the old wax layer.
For this i use a steel wire brush on the spinning Wheel until most is gone, then i shut the machine down and remove the last remnants with an old rag & brake cleaner.

2 - Then remove all traces of grit & glue until you get to the bare cardboard surface.
For this i use an old coarse silicon carbide stone first and a semi-coarse diamond stone second, but coarse sandpaper on a piece of wood also works well.

3 - Take a good quality water resistant wood glue and coat the bare cardboard surface evenly.
I just use a clean finger while turning the Wheel with my other hand.
Let dry at least overnight.

4 - The next day apply a new and just a little thicker layer of the same glue, and immediately after coat the surface with the grit.
For this i put a thick layer of grit in a small rectangle box or a deep plastic lid from a jar and gently push the surface of the wheel in it, evenly and all the way around.
Put the wheel back on the machine and let dry at least overnight.

5 - The next day run the machine with the wheel for just a few seconds so any loose grit particles fly off.
I also hold my diamond stone shortly to the sides of the Wheel to remove grit particles that stick out there.
Stop the wheel and coat the gritted surface with a very thin & even layer of the same wood glue, so thin you can still feel the grit under your fingertips when you're done.
Let it dry at least overnight.

6 - The next day run the machine and hold an old junk knife a few seconds to the wheel (still without the wax), as this will lay bare the highest points of the grit particles.
Now you can put some wax on the surface (don't overdo it) and sharpen away.

As you can see the process takes some time, but to me it's worth it.
The triple layer of glue makes for a much stronger bond of the SiC grit to the cardboard surface compared to just one layer of glue, and each grit particle is also held better in the glue since it's almost completely encapsulated by it, while the glue itself will wear away easily during sharpening.
This method provides me with a grit Wheel that works perfectly and also lasts longer between regrittings.
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This is the 3 step as posted by kwackster. It is a process to re-grit the grinding wheel.

Blessings,

Omar
 
BellyUpFish said:
Just gave my Sharpmaker to my pops. I'm gonna order some wheels tomorrow.
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Some may disagree, but I think you made a great choice. Just get some cheap "throw away" kitchen knives at your local thrift store, usually for a $1 or so and practice on them until you can get a constant bevel grind, and sharp results. Not hard, just a short learning curve. Best of luck to you!

Blessngs,

Omar
 
OHALLUM said:
Some may disagree, but I think you made a great choice. Just get some cheap "throw away" kitchen knives at your local thrift store, usually for a $1 or so and practice on them until you can get a constant bevel grind, and sharp results. Not hard, just a short learning curve. Best of luck to you!

Blessngs,

Omar
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I hope so. The Sharpmaker was causing some issues with a previous injury, so I was ready for a change.
 
Yes they are the same. Grizzly is where I bought mine, and got them quickly and with no problems.

Blessings,

Omar
 
how does one measure for proper angles?

dont have time to read through all 80 pgs atm....can someone post a link, if it has already been discussed?
 
It mostly comes from experience. However, if you are trying to maintain the same angle as is already on the knife, then if you will mark the angle with a felt tip marker, then you can use that as a guide.

Some people have marked the wheel with lines from top dead center, 10 degrees, 15 degrees, and 20 degrees on the side of the wheel, to give them a starting point from which to hold the blade when starting their grind. I used this method when I first started to get an idea of where to start. After some experience, your instinct will tell you where to start. Be sure to maintain the same angle on the slotted wheel as you use on the grit wheel.

Some others have used a lazer beam shining on the wheels to mark their angles. They mounted the lazer light above the grinder and focused it on the side of the wheels, much the same way as marking them with a marker at varying degrees. Practice makes perfect, as they say. I just found the post about the lazer! http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...e-is-important-to-you?p=11640448#post11640448

Blessings,

Omar
 
Hello all,
Decided to give a try to the paper wheels, working with Jnats is taking too much time for "simple" blades.
I will inform you how it is working for me.

:)
 
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