paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

off topic, and I apologize, but anyone heard from Richard J? is he doing okay? thanks. back to on topic......
 
I suspect your grit wheel may not have been worn out. You may have too much wax on it which makes it look like it's flat. I had a similar experience and question posted on this forum previously. I used my nails to gently scratch the grit wheel and the grit was exposed underneath the wax, so I started to avoid wax for the next 10 or so sharpenings. As for angle, do some math and mark the 20 degree angle spot on the wheels when wheel is not spinning. Then, look down from the top to find where that spot lines up relative to the surrounding and eye-ball it for future sharpening. Once you get the hang of it and get the consistency (level that blade, but lift a bit for the recurves), you will easily get hair whittling sharp knives from the wheels.
 
I had to grind for a while before I exposed the paper, what you're saying makes sense. I'm going to recoat the wheel and start fresh this evening.

I've been sharpening knives for a good 12 years, I think I expected there to be less of a learning curve with the paper wheels. But for what it's worth, I have always used bench stones, and never used any type of edge guided or power system. Main reason I'm trying it now, is I have an opportunity to start sharpening knives for a couple of chefs for some side money, and I'm not doing that many knives on bench stones. I know how to sharpen knives, but I think learning this new system will take me a little longer than I expected. It's okay, that's why sharpening is so much fun! Unending variables.
 
f250 said:
I know for a fact I had multiple bevels going on. So what I'm hearing is I need to practice more consistent bevel grinding for a correct apex, and I need a MUCH lighter touch. Yes?
Click to expand...

Yes to both; I think you'll see much better results and will minimize both overheating your blades as well as premature wear on the grit wheel. :thumbup::)
 
Ok. I tried again. This time with a combination of some other kitchen knives. I'm having more trouble with the cheaper softer knives, seems like I'm still rounding the apex a bit.

I got better results on a couple
Of the harder knives. I developed a good bur, and I ended up with a slightly keener edge once I buffed the bur off. Going to keep on practicing!
 
f250 said:
Ok. I tried again. This time with a combination of some other kitchen knives. I'm having more trouble with the cheaper softer knives, seems like I'm still rounding the apex a bit.

I got better results on a couple
Of the harder knives. I developed a good bur, and I ended up with a slightly keener edge once I buffed the bur off. Going to keep on practicing!
Click to expand...

Sounds good; the wheels can be addictive... ;):D

I've found that some less expensive kitchen cutlery can have crazy thick edge angles sometimes, say 40 - 50 degrees per side; that could be part of the problem if you're holding them too flat (low edge angle, like 15-20 degrees per side) on the wheel it'll never be sharp.

Pic for reference of a low edge angle hold (buffing the edge on this Spyderco TUFF):

18502104894_376dd6e190_c.jpg
 
So I'm still having issues with my grit wheel.

While I'm using the top layer of grit, it cuts smoothly and quickly. Once the top layer where's through, and I start getting into the layers of glue and grit, it cut very very slowly barely grinds at all unless I put a lot of pressure on it, and the glue makes it seem completely smooth. Is this right?
 
I talked to him a few days ago. He checks in every now and then.
 
This brand new Endura ZDP-189 sadly had a less than optimal factory edge, and since this beautiful steel deserves better i reprofiled & sharpened it myself.

My guess is that these knives are belt sharpened and then have the burr stropped of on a buffer.
On this knife however it seemed like the buffer ran out of cutting compound (or the sharpener just did a sloppy job), as through my loupe i could see remains of a burr almost along the entire edge. (some of it is partly visible in picture 2)
Due to this the sharpness was of course severely lacking.
I also measured the edge angle to be 35 degrees inclusive, which i think is a bit too large for a folding knife in ZDP-189 steel.

Before sharpening:






First i removed the old apex by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, then reprofiled the edge to a slightly convex ~ 25 degrees inclusive angle with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
This leaves the scratch pattern created by the 15 micron diamond particles intact as much as possible, creating an edge that with the naked eye almost looks like a mirror, but which has the bite of a coarser edge.
I call this a "bling & bite" finish, and i have found it to work very well in EDC use on harder high carbide steel types.
It's also quite difficult to show correctly in pictures, as the lens of my cheap camera has a tendency to show more of the scratch pattern than can be seen in reality with the naked eye.

With the reduced edge angle & the much finer edge finish the knife will not only cut in a completely different league, it can now also be kept sharp on the 30 degrees slots of a Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky Turnbox.

After sharpening:









Specs:

Length open: 22,2 cm
Length closed: 12,7 cm
Blade length: 9,6 cm
Blade thickness: max 3,0 mm (ricasso)
Edge length: 8,8 cm
Steel: ZDP-189 powdered steel
Hardness: 64-65 HRC
Weight: 103 gram
Handle material: British Racing Green FRN on steel liners
 
Last edited:
Most of it is just practice, but i also use a black marker, a loupe, and one of these to measure edge angles before & after sharpening:

368028_xl.jpg
 
Last edited:
I believe I have too much wax on the grit wheel. What is the easiest way to remove down to proper level?

Thanks,
Sauce
 
Sauce1 said:
I believe I have too much wax on the grit wheel. What is the easiest way to remove down to proper level?
Thanks,
Sauce
Click to expand...

You can use a wire brush to remove excess wax, or just grind on a piece of flat steel gently until it grinds off. The easiest and best way is with the wire brush.

By the way, it is better with too much wax, than not enough. If the wheel still grinds the knife blade, then there is no need to remove any wax. My wheel looks almost slick with the wax, but still grinds and will throw sparks if any pressure is applied.

Omar
 
Richard had figured out a way to use sander belts on the wheels. Does anybody else do this? Can you describe the process of attaching the belt to the wheel?
 
Last edited:
IIRC, i believe he was "dressing" the wheel with sandpaper. i think he glued or stapled the sandpaper to a 2" x 4", laid one end of the wood on the bench, and slowly raised the other end until the sandpaper just made contact with the wheel. keeping the wood on the bench helps keep it square to the wheel.

pat
 
Richard used a liquid abrasive on the wheels. He states emphatically that you should not try putting sandpaper or belts on them. That is only going to get you hurt or worse.
 
studio398 said:
IIRC, i believe he was "dressing" the wheel with sandpaper. i think he glued or stapled the sandpaper to a 2" x 4", laid one end of the wood on the bench, and slowly raised the other end until the sandpaper just made contact with the wheel. keeping the wood on the bench helps keep it square to the wheel.
pat
Click to expand...

This ^^^ I use a 60 grit belt to re-grind the grit wheel, and then follow up with some 100 grit for the final grind to smooth and square off the wheel.

Omar
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top