How To Patina Experts?

AShearer

AShearer

Joined
Nov 30, 2016
Messages
3,089
I am not a patina guy as you can probably tell from my photos? Below are photos of my 92 Talon after taking it on the boat with me this weekend. I have no idea how this got patina, especially just from the tang to about a third of the blade? Where does patina come from? I did not slice any food. Is it possible the salt water environment could have caused this?

Whie1os.jpg

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I would definitely say that is from humid, salty air. A good once over with some Flitz would probably clean that right up.
 
I agree with Shawn Alan, humid, salty air. I carried my 01 Bull nose for two days straight while jackhammering....MAJOR PATINA with red rust spots. I'm quite acidic:):D
 
Wurrwulf said:
I would definitely say that is from humid, salty air. A good once over with some Flitz would probably clean that right up.
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paulhilborn said:
I agree with Shawn Alan, humid, salty air. I carried my 01 Bull nose for two days straight while jackhammering....MAJOR PATINA with red rust spots. I'm quite acidic:):D
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This seems most likely to me. I really have not done anything differently except spend three days on the brackish Chesapeake Bay.
I can order some Flitz, but I also have Mother's Mag polish, which I actually use on my fiberglass blue hull? Seems safe? I think I've seen others mention it.

I have nothing against patina:) But, I want to have it occur due to something I know I did < if that makes sense?
 
paulhilborn said:
I agree with Shawn Alan, humid, salty air. I carried my 01 Bull nose for two days straight while jackhammering....MAJOR PATINA with red rust spots. I'm quite acidic:):D
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Yep! This was my 14 after a few particularly sweaty days at work in South Louisiana. Flitz cleaned it up just fine.

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I believe Mother's Mag would work the same. I'm not sure if one is more abrasive than the other.
 
Wurrwulf said:
Yep! This was my 14 after a few particularly sweaty days at work in South Louisiana. Flitz cleaned it up just fine.

voILGOU.jpg


I believe Mother's Mag would work the same. I'm not sure if one is more abrasive than the other.
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Whoa! That is amazing! Just what, being in your pocket? I used to use Flitz on my stainless on the boat, which is a constant chore. Now I use a product called Spotless Stainless which is a citrus based product and only for use on 316 stainless (marine) type. I use Mothers on my fiberglass, so will try it on the blade.
Actually, since I use my 92 a lot, I don't mind, except it's not "nice" patina if you know what I mean? I have a couple of stainless blades; Case and Kabar (Alcas) on the boat. A good sized, sharp knife is essential on a boat. Somebody gets a leg caught in a line, or whatever.
Thanks Shawn: Good tip and convincing photo!
 
Yeah, early September down here is usually in the upper 80s with 80-90% humidity. I work outdoors, and I'm a particularly sweaty person. The ebony handles would be damp when I pulled it out of my pocket. I've gotten better about drying my knives off periodically. I forced a patina on that particular knife after Flitzing it.
 
I have used the following metal polishes on my knife blades: Simichrome, Wenol, Mothers Mag Polish. They will all restore a shiny finish to polished metal and will remove patina. I haven't tried Flitz, but it probably works about the same as the others.
 
I don't know if this is actually how it is, but it seems to me that my patina'd blades are less prone to rusting.
My house is cooled by a swamp cooler in the summer, so stuff likes to rust.
The patina free edges of hatchets, and machetes, easily turn a light brown or develop rust specs while anything covered in patina seems to resist it more.
I've had Matt bead blasted stainless blades develop rust specs when patina'd carbon steel did not.
 
I'm no expert, but the few I have with a patina tend to get less rust spots on them. I live on the gulf coast of Florida, so just a couple of hours of pocket time outside is all it takes for rust spots to appear.
 
So rust in essence is oxygen reacting with the steel of the blade. Humidity and salt agravate this.

The patina makes a barrier that prevents the reaction. It's a really thin barrier so if you've got the knife in salt water the rust will win.

Maybe the blade had been touched right there and that sparked the reaction.
 
How long would I leave my blade in mustard to force patina. At what point is it too long and I risk damaging the knife? Which vinegar?

Also the same question except using mustard. How long is too long?
 
Lapedog said:
How long would I leave my blade in mustard to force patina. At what point is it too long and I risk damaging the knife? Which vinegar?

Also the same question except using mustard. How long is too long?
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I've only tried this once and I used White Vinegar. I positioned the blade tip down in a clear glass cup so I could watch the progress. I ended up soaking it for 40 minutes because that's the amount of time it took to reach the tint of darkness I was shooting for. It actually was a little darker than it looked when I took it out of the glass.

This was on a Case CV blade.
 
I did my 2blade tc clip in Barnes hospital while my father was in ICU... Found some packets of mustard in the waiting room.

To answer your question I totally roast mine. I do two or three applications of whatever medium of your choice. You may want to sharpen your knife post treatment (for a contrast).
Pick one of your less desirable 1095 blades and go "rat rod" on it!
Either two things will happen.... You'll either think " I have just ruined my knife" or " dag gum that looks good!". Enjoy the hobby
 
Alan,

Looks like you got all the necessary advice :thumbsup: If you see a spot of rust that's stubborn, some 1000 to 2000 grit sandpaper (is it really sandpaper at that grit?) will get rid of it--however, you'll either have to polish the whole blade or have a shiny spot (that will eventually patina).

Anthony
 
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