How To Patina Experts?

Yeah, early September down here is usually in the upper 80s with 80-90% humidity. I work outdoors, and I'm a particularly sweaty person. The ebony handles would be damp when I pulled it out of my pocket. I've gotten better about drying my knives off periodically. I forced a patina on that particular knife after Flitzing it.
Wow! I sweat a lot too, but I have not experienced the kind of reaction you got on that blade.
 
Alan,

Looks like you got all the necessary advice :thumbsup: If you see a spot of rust that's stubborn, some 1000 to 2000 grit sandpaper (is it really sandpaper at that grit?) will get rid of it--however, you'll either have to polish the whole blade or have a shiny spot (that will eventually patina).

Anthony

Anthony. Yes got lots of good advice. I was more surprised at how fast this blade turned. I guess it was most exposed parts of the blade? I will try mother's since I have it. If not, I'll try a2000 tape from my edge-pro that has been used some. Just like sand paper but the grading is different.
 
Alan, sounds like you got this! Yes, the steel turns quick, depending on what coating you have on it and how recently it was wiped down. I use Ballistol--works like magic, and is food safe if you wipe off/ rise the blade before food prep.
 
Alan, sounds like you got this! Yes, the steel turns quick, depending on what coating you have on it and how recently it was wiped down. I use Ballistol--works like magic, and is food safe if you wipe off/ rise the blade before food prep.

Interesting! I use Ballistoil also. I use Sentry on joints because it comes in the little needle applicator. If I don't use the needle, I'm so clumsy I get oil all over:rolleyes: . Ballistoil on blades. I also found that Tuff Cloth works great for getting tape residue off blades. I do think this blade was pretty fully used and dry before I left the house. Thus, the quick turn.
 
That sounds about right. I have a needle applicator for my Ballistol because I buy the liquid form... otherwise, I am in the same boat as you. I make a mess of everything.

I just realized, the boat simile is kind of funny, given that you have a boat-- sorry, it's been a long morning. :)
 
That sounds about right. I have a needle applicator for my Ballistol because I buy the liquid form... otherwise, I am in the same boat as you. I make a mess of everything.

I just realized, the boat simile is kind of funny, given that you have a boat-- sorry, it's been a long morning. :)

I've had one of those days too! So, until I can get it cleaned up the 92 is on the bench and this is taking it's place.
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I was threatening to carry the Davison, but I was working outdoors today on some kind of rough stuff.
 
Sweet little knife. My Davidson arrives tomorrow!

Looking forward to better mornings!
 
I stopped chasing the high polish dragon years ago when I go into Khukuris. They are crafted out of recycled leaf springs so are basically 1095 (give or take).

I prefer a pantina on all of my carbon blades. With my acid sweat, it's going to happen anyway:D My go to method? Cut up lemons for a cocktail. After a few rounds of that, it will be a nice medium gray not not so prone to red rust.

My Beer Scout is looking better all ready:D
 
I stopped chasing the high polish dragon years ago when I go into Khukuris. They are crafted out of recycled leaf springs so are basically 1095 (give or take).

I prefer a pantina on all of my carbon blades. With my acid sweat, it's going to happen anyway:D My go to method? Cut up lemons for a cocktail. After a few rounds of that, it will be a nice medium gray not not so prone to red rust.

My Beer Scout is looking better all ready:D

Got ya. I was hoping to create my own patina where I wanted it. So this was a surprise. I will keep your go to method in mind though. The weird thing about this was it only show up on the tang and about 1/3 of the way up to blade. I suspect that is because they are the most exposed areas when the knife is closed? Question? When you force patina, do you treat the tang also?
 
I am not a patina guy as you can probably tell from my photos? Below are photos of my 92 Talon after taking it on the boat with me this weekend. I have no idea how this got patina, especially just from the tang to about a third of the blade? Where does patina come from? I did not slice any food. Is it possible the salt water environment could have caused this?

Whie1os.jpg

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Well: Here are some after pictures. Click Expand on the originals. That was a Mother:D. I took Mothers to this blade, since I do not currently have any Flitz and no appropriate sandpaper. I got a little frustrated after two full news cycles and used an old toothbrush with Mothers on it, to get at the tang area. That worked pretty well. Learned a bunch of things about polishing off this kind of patina. One, when the paste turns black, wipe it off and get some more. Two, after some point, you have to realize that the one little crevice or dark spot just ain't going to get any better, no matter how much you scrub it. You need something else. Three, getting the dirty polish off is critical. I wiped it down with WD40 then alchohol, then added Ballistoil and a little Red Wax on the ebony.
Thanks for all the tips guys.
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I'm no expert, but the few I have with a patina tend to get less rust spots on them. I live on the gulf coast of Florida, so just a couple of hours of pocket time outside is all it takes for rust spots to appear.

Rust bluing is one of the better ways to prevent rust on guns and knives, IMHO. I have a rust bluing cabinet I built to apply a nice layer of patina on firearm parts in a controlled environment. Bluing is a generic term, as rust bluing is not blue at all, but rather reddish brown layer of oxidation that prevents further oxidation. I'm not a scientist, but you get my meaning, I hope. Patina does prevent rust.
 
I've had one of those days too! So, until I can get it cleaned up the 92 is on the bench and this is taking it's place.
sWHLbS5.jpg


I was threatening to carry the Davison, but I was working outdoors today on some kind of rough stuff.

Nice coyote Alan!
 
All my users have a pretty decent patina from various tasks. Despite that fact they all end up with some level of orange rust on the blade after a day of hiking. The combination of high carbon and lots of sweat and there's no way around it.

When I get done with hikes I wipe off the blade and use a super eraser to remove the orange spots. Once all the abrasive rust is gone I coat the blade with a small amount of mineral oil and they are as good as new.
 
All my users have a pretty decent patina from various tasks. Despite that fact they all end up with some level of orange rust on the blade after a day of hiking. The combination of high carbon and lots of sweat and there's no way around it.

When I get done with hikes I wipe off the blade and use a super eraser to remove the orange spots. Once all the abrasive rust is gone I coat the blade with a small amount of mineral oil and they are as good as new.

This is a good summary of how this works. I keep two knives on my boat (saltwater environment). Both are there for very specific reasons. They are both stainless and have never shown any corrosion. I keep on in the helm area and one in a tool box. Unless I purposely get a patina on one of my 1095 knives, I just won't take em on the boat anymore.

Not entirely what a super eraser is? But, it sounds like it works.
 
This is a good summary of how this works. I keep two knives on my boat (saltwater environment). Both are there for very specific reasons. They are both stainless and have never shown any corrosion. I keep on in the helm area and one in a tool box. Unless I purposely get a patina on one of my 1095 knives, I just won't take em on the boat anymore.

Not entirely what a super eraser is? But, it sounds like it works.
Super eraser is a rust removal masterpiece that won't remove the patina I got mine from an online supplier and it works wonderfully
 
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