Patina on my Para

Josh K · Jul 27, 2009

Lycosa said:
Dumb ques. A patina will not rust??

I think (if my theory is right) that it's a different type of rust.

softrockrenegade · Jul 27, 2009

pretty sure it wont stop it 100 percent but makes maintenance way easier

Lycosa · Jul 28, 2009

ok, that's pretty cool.

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

I just checked my para's blade and since I had left it lying for two weeks (out of town at a National Research Lab) it developed a little bit of rust. So now it is in a mason jar with vinegar, I will probably leave it sitting for a couple of hours. Anyone now how long it may take to develop a patina?

rmc85 · Jul 28, 2009

hwpaintballer said:
I just checked my para's blade and since I had left it lying for two weeks (out of town at a National Research Lab) it developed a little bit of rust. So now it is in a mason jar with vinegar, I will probably leave it sitting for a couple of hours. Anyone now how long it may take to develop a patina?

The first time I left it in for 30 mins and the second for an hour...

Then since I didnt see any results the first two times I just left it in over night on the third try and this is what I got.

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

Okay thanks :thumbup:

Do you think using a darker vinegar, like apple cider vinegar, would create a darker patina?

rmc85 · Jul 28, 2009

The first time I tried I used red wine vinegar and heated it some (many people suggested heating it) but I didnt see results. I'm not sure if the blade wasnt in long enough or the red wine vinegar didnt work but something didnt go right.

I left mine in over night, used regular distilled vinegar, and did not heat it.

Sorry I'm not much help!

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

I'm not to worried, the knife is a user so if it ends up with some funky patina oh well.

5.56 · Jul 28, 2009

Here's a nice example of patina on a D2 Millie.

That deep grey really looks good with the foilage green

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

Looks good :thumbup:

Lycosa · Jul 28, 2009

The patina looks good but I dig the original satin.

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

Lycosa said:
The patina looks good but I dig the original satin.

I also like the looks of the satin, but as soon as I saw mine starting to develop a little bit of rust I figured why not.

Lycosa · Jul 28, 2009

Good move. :thumbup:
Were you keeping your D2 blade oiled?

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

Lycosa said:
Good move. :thumbup:
Were you keeping your D2 blade oiled?

hwpaintballer said:
I just checked my para's blade and since I had left it lying for two weeks (out of town at a National Research Lab) it developed a little bit of rust. So now it is in a mason jar with vinegar, I will probably leave it sitting for a couple of hours. Anyone now how long it may take to develop a patina?

I would wipe it down with a tuff cloth at the end of the day if I had used it a lot, I think I didn't wipe it off though the day I pulled it out of my pocket and left it laying on my computer desk for two weeks :foot:.

rmc85 · Jul 28, 2009

hwpaintballer said:
I also like the looks of the satin, but as soon as I saw mine starting to develop a little bit of rust I figured why not.

Yup. I'd rather have a patina than rust and pitting which is what I was on the road to prior to the patina.

Lycosa · Jul 28, 2009

Thanks, Painter!! :thumbup:

hwpaintballer · Jul 28, 2009

all done with the patina, got it reassembled with no stripped torx screws, and I even took a black sharpie to the clip to hide some of the scratches.

Thanks for the tips RMC85 :thumbup:

senoBDEC · Jul 28, 2009

Josh K said:
I think it's Iron III Oxide (dark grey) rather then Iron II Oxide (rust red).

Excellent job there! :thumbup:

Other way around, but yes. Iron III oxide is typically formed from contact of iron-bearing materials with water in an environment containing CO2 - which begins the process of corrosion. Why precisely Iron II oxide is fairly non-reactive with water has to do with the structure it forms with a tetrahedral iron atom connected to oxygen and Iron III.
http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(II)_oxide
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(III)_oxide

SangYuP · Jul 28, 2009

hwpaintballer said:
all done with the patina, got it reassembled with no stripped torx screws, and I even took a black sharpie to the clip to hide some of the scratches.

Thanks for the tips RMC85 :thumbup:

Can you post some pics of the patina? I'm curious if the patina was even throughout. Most of the patinas I've seen are blotchy and uneven except for RMC85. His was almost completely even. I'm curious if yours came out worse, same, or better in terms of being overall even.

rmc85 · Jul 28, 2009

SangYuP said:
Can you post some pics of the patina? I'm curious if the patina was even throughout. Most of the patinas I've seen are blotchy and uneven except for RMC85. His was almost completely even. I'm curious if yours came out worse, same, or better in terms of being overall even.

+1

I'd love to see them too hw!