Peltonen Ranger Knife M95 versus Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140?

[Sid Post]

I don't know where you live, it might affect the price. Otherwise, I have a JaakariPuukko 140, for 63 CAD. The M95 from reliable Scandinavian website ((Lamnia) asks for a little over 100 CAD, so more than x1.5.
KnifeCenter has them, retail for 140 USD, that's more than x2 the price.

If that is the price with the sheath, you got an awesome deal on it. With the sheath, the best price I have seen is $88USD.

And thanks for the note on the blade steel being a 440C variant under a different name. 440C done right is a good steel for most people. Still wonder a bit why they call it N695 if it is an unmodified 440C. Boker labels theirs as 440C though they do market using N690 for some of their more premium knives.

Material Numbers​

SEL	SEL	UNS	EN	EN	EN	Market grade
1.3544	1.4125	S44004	X102CrMo17	X105CrMo17	Z100CD17	440C

 

[Sid Post]

Another one the OP might consider is the Joker Ember. Its Sandvik 14C28N steel and in comes in both a Scandi or Flat grind. Nice walnut, micarta or Curly Birch scales. About $90, a tremendous value

The smaller Jokers seem like really nice knives but, the ones I typically see are generally a bit over $100. For a ~4" knife, I could see myself carrying one as opposed to a more expensive knife in a 'super steel' though, it's not like I see myself batoning with one so, CPM 3V would be a waste over any number of good steels for this application.

The worst part about Joker, is finding them in stock somewhere where they aren't marked up excessively.

 

[pholder]

Tops Overlander, 1095, tough as nails, sharp as a tack

 

[jfk1110]

There are plenty of guys here who can make you exactly the dimensions and steel you want for a damn good PRICE....Have a look around and reach out.to.one.of them that strikes your fancy!!

For Sale: Fixed Blades

www.bladeforums.com

 

[Drop bear]

Hultafors heavy duty?

I had to patina mine though. As it got rusty fairly easily.

Or the ok4 which is a bit nicer.

Or really nice. Same thing with a wood handle and a leather sheath.

I have the skrama 200 and that knife is quite tough. I batoned that through Australian hardwood which is no mean feat.

So I imagine the 140 is similar.

 

[Sid Post]

There are plenty of guys here who can make you exactly the dimensions and steel you want for a damn good PRICE....Have a look around and reach out.to.one.of them that strikes your fancy!!

For Sale: Fixed Blades

www.bladeforums.com

Fair enough but, the Pukko options are a bit limited, at least in my price range. Handles and sheaths are also hard to duplicate assuming you aren't using natural materials. I can also have one of the 'factory' options in my hands in ~2 weeks too!

 

[Hammer67]

...It needs to stand up to batoning through heavy wood while still being able to do camp kitchen prep chores.

... it's not like I see myself batoning with one so, CPM 3V would be a waste over any number of good steels for this application.

I'm confused.

 

[rlewpolar]

How about a simple Mora Companion Heavy Duty in stainless? Baton it till your arms are sore. Food prep because Mora blades come very sharp and slice well enough, especially for a scandi grind. I use my regular Companion for food prep all the time and it does great. $20. I’ve never heard of a Mora handle coming loose or breaking the tip off without wildly abusing one

 

[Sid Post]

I'm confused.

It's about durability if I find myself in a JAMB and need to baton. However, I have no plans to do so at this time.

I don't want to get caught out and need the durability only to find I have a stick tang that fails or something similar like a stress riser that causes it to snap in two.

On the flip side, I don't want a 1/4" stock club ready for dedicated harsh service.

 

[Sid Post]

How about a simple Mora Companion Heavy Duty in stainless? Baton it till your arms are sore. Food prep because Mora blades come very sharp and slice well enough, especially for a scandi grind. I use my regular Companion for food prep all the time and it does great. $20. I’ve never heard of a Mora handle coming loose or breaking the tip off without wildly abusing one

Great timing! I was just looking at the Hultafor OK1 and OK4! 3mm blade stock in what is rumored to be SK5 steel from Japan. I'm thinking I might get the heavy-duty in stainless for kitchen prep-type chores and the OK4 for more bushcrafty things though a Morakniv Kansbol is tempting too.

 

[Sid Post]

For a "big" knife, one of the two original options still looks like an interesting choice.

 

[Deino]

If that is the price with the sheath, you got an awesome deal on it. With the sheath, the best price I have seen is $88USD.

And thanks for the note on the blade steel being a 440C variant under a different name. 440C done right is a good steel for most people. Still wonder a bit why they call it N695 if it is an unmodified 440C. Boker labels theirs as 440C though they do market using N690 for some of their more premium knives.

Material Numbers​

SEL	SEL	UNS	EN	EN	EN	Market grade
1.3544	1.4125	S44004	X102CrMo17	X105CrMo17	Z100CD17	440C

Actually, you are right, I got my Jaakari without sheath, as it fits one of my existing sheath. If more maker offer the no sheath option, I might get them. Making sheath from nylon is fun and not very expensive neither.
For your two original options, the Jaakari is made with outdoor application in mind, while the M95 has combat application in mind. I believe that the Jaakari may be better. Though, excuse me for my mindset of not liking military issue, I haven't use my issued knife bayonet for anything but cutting paracord and clean guns...

The Cold Steel SKR mentioned earlier also use SK5/SK85 steel. Note, CS and Hultafors are Taiwanese made steel meet Japanese spec, not actually steel from Japan per say. Cold Steel SKR non compact is qas long as the M95 and thicker. It comes with sheath at half the price of either Finland option if price is an issue.

 

[Drop bear]

Great timing! I was just looking at the Hultafor OK1 and OK4! 3mm blade stock in what is rumored to be SK5 steel from Japan. I'm thinking I might get the heavy-duty in stainless for kitchen prep-type chores and the OK4 for more bushcrafty things though a Morakniv Kansbol is tempting too.

The kansbol is my food prep and then food eat knife.

Ine of the advantages of a light handled knife. Is that of you rest it on a plate it doesn't tend to go flying off like a full tang with a skull crusher.

 

[Drop bear]

Interestingly food prep/bushcraft knives are not really plentiful.

One issue you may have is not being able to chop flat with the knife on a chopping board.

I have been eyeing off the civivi Kepler to try and solve that problem myself.

 

[rlewpolar]

Ok, here’s my vote (as though it counts for anything ). Get the Skrama 200 as your big knife. It will chop and baton almost better than anything else out there and will even do fine work if you need it to. Also, get the Mora Companion Heavy duty not only as a back up baton knife, but also as your feather stick and food prep knife. It’s so light, you won’t even feel it. Both knives will come under $120 and you have redundancy. Both are super tough, high quality and relatively inexpensive. And now you have two knives instead of one because let’s face it, more knives are good

 

[Sid Post]

The Cold Steel SKR mentioned earlier also use SK5/SK85 steel. Note, CS and Hultafors are Taiwanese made steel meet Japanese spec, not actually steel from Japan per say. Cold Steel SKR non compact is qas long as the M95 and thicker. It comes with sheath at half the price of either Finland option if price is an issue.

Not a fan of the clip point. The price is attractive but, past Cold Steel products never really impressed me. My vague memories of an SRK I owned long ago were that it was pretty clubby. With its thick stock and saber grind, I don't see it being a reasonable kitchen prep option. For SEAL BUDS school, probably a fine choice though.

 

[Sid Post]

Interestingly food prep/bushcraft knives are not really plentiful.

One issue you may have is not being able to chop flat with the knife on a chopping board.

I have been eyeing off the civivi Kepler to try and solve that problem myself.

That Civvi Kepler sure looks good for camp kitchen prep! I have debated getting a cheap Santoku for that use but, this one looks like a better option even though at ~$60 it is about twice the cost of a cheap no-name Santoku.

Being a taller thinner knife also should avoid cracking carrots and similar problems when using a thick stock saber ground knife.

 

[Drop bear]

That Civvi Kepler sure looks good for camp kitchen prep! I have debated getting a cheap Santoku for that use but, this one looks like a better option even though at ~$60 it is about twice the cost of a cheap no-name Santoku.

Being a taller thinner knife also should avoid cracking carrots and similar problems when using a thick stock saber ground knife.

The nicest looking option are kind of those suspect bush cleavers.

But they are almost guaranteed to be junk.

 

[noviomagus]

Personally not a fan of the rubber handles on the Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140. I've seen them begin to fail multiple times.

How did the rubber fail, were the failures the same way or different..
I know of some had the rubber handle moving on the tang. Not sure of this is solved now.

 

[noviomagus]

If I could only take one I think I’d take the Jääkäripuukko. I have more experience with it, and thought it cut a lot better than the Kansbøl, which of course is not the same thing. The rubber handle does not concern me. I suspect it is about as common as the reported tip breakages on the Peltonens. For what it’s worth, I have the Peltonens in both sizes, but the Teräva in just the 110.
The Sissipuukko strikes me as a cooler looking knife, but I don’t know that coolness alone makes it the better knife. They both have great sheaths, in very different ways.

So, in your opinion the rubber handle will hold up? I'm not familiair with the tip breakages of Peltonen's. Is this a talk on the internet.
Personally I like the polypropylene/polymer onto the tang better , combined with a layer of TPE covering it for gripping comfort (as in the Mora Companion/Bushcraft), than the rubber straight onto the tang system.
The ridges/ribs on the Peltonen are a bit uncomfortable to me, it might be there for glove use in cold Scandinavian/ Finnish winters.