Performance knives

Lorien

Nose to the Grindstone
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When it comes to handmade knives, the most alluring ones to me are those oriented towards performance cutting. Like competition cutters.

When I'm building trails, I am often confronted with plants that are springy, fibrous and tough, with dense leaves that are like leather. Salal, Scotch Broom and Salmon Berry are everywhere, and due to the terrain are often unavoidable. Getting through without cutting is not easy.

To remove this stuff from the trail, I've used power brush saws, bypass and anvil style shears of various sizes, machetes, scythes- you name it. But I've found that nothing fits the bill like a forged, 10-12" bladed knife with a secure handle, a light point, a fine, convex edge and a subtle belly. Because I'm usually riding my mountain bike to get there, overall light weight is also an issue. Right now what I'm using is a Valiant golok, http://www.valiantco.com/java/GolokJagal.JPG whose handle I've modified to be ergonomic. I have a knife in the pipe by Burt Foster as a replacement. A good bush knife cannot be beat, especially when you have to carry it out there on a bicycle.

So, I'm here looking to learn what kinds of experiences and advice people had and have with 'performance' knives. Especially any input by those makers who are part of this forum and who've competed in cutting competitions. What considerations do you take when trying to achieve maximum knife performance?
 
I did an article for Blade a while back on the evolution of Dan Farr's competition cutters. You'd probably find it of interest to see the design elements worked for him, and those that didn't. I'll see if I can dig up a copy and send it to you.

I got to use all of the different versions - as well as quite a few examples from Dan's impressive collection (how many guys in recent years have actually chopped up stuff with a Fisk bowie? ;)) on a cutting competition rig. The experience was informative, to say the least. Learned more about handle designs that day than in the previous 10 years.

I'm sure your Burt Foster piece will serve you exceptionally well. He'd be among my very top pics for a knife of this kind.

Roger

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I got to use all of the different versions - as well as quite a few examples from Dan's impressive collection (how many guys in recent years have actually chopped up stuff with a Fisk bowie? ;)) on a cutting competition rig.

Actually quite a few. ;)
We did some cutting at Jerry's Micro Show last year using cutters from Lin Rhea, JR Cook and the Fisk beast below. As soon as I picked this one up there was no doubt what so ever what it had been made for. :eek:

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Here's a cutter Jerry offered at the Show. Again quite a cutter.

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Seems like those cutters would be highly effective and those are some nice ones shown. I especially like that Farr with the carved handle.

That being said, when I was doing a lot of mountain biking, I carried a folding/locking pruning saw made by hi-point. It is light and has agressive teeth that can cut through a 6" diameter sapling in a short time. I didn't have a need to remove plants and weeds, but those trees that fall across the trails too high to jump over were the main obstacles.

Peter
 
Yep, hard to beat a big 10-12" blade in the woods. I prefer a heavier blade, usually forge my own out of round bar or 3/8" stock, have more control over final balance when starting with thicker stock. Prepare food, clear brush, chop firewood, clean fish etc.... This size does it all. Im not sure how the modern cutting competition converts into real world hard use in the woods.

Adam DeRossiers-

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Jason Knight-
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Me-
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Actually quite a few. ;)
We did some cutting at Jerry's Micro Show last year using cutters from Lin Rhea, JR Cook and the Fisk beast below.
Kevin,
Some great looking knives you posted. :thumbup:
I was wondering if any Damascus blades were used?
Roger,
Always cool to see that beautiful Farr beast. :thumbup:

Doug
 
Matt,
I was composing my post when you posted,nice to see those amazing examples.
Jimmy Fikes let me know you were a collector before you started knifemaking,so I'm sure you got a handle on the performance thing.
No pun intended.

Doug :D
 
Thanks for the pictures guys! Roger that Farr knife and its fuller is really cool!

Matt, I've checked out your site and you make some incredible knives that are right up my alley, I'll be in touch.
I saw Desrosiers profiled once in KI, and he's doing some good stuff too, also noticed he's getting a website up and running.
I talked with Jason Knight a couple of times and I'm going to try and squeeze a knife out of him sometime over the next couple of years.
I discovered Burt first, so he gets the first chunk of cash out of my wallet! (man, it's been a long wait so far- and half a year to go!:().
Tai Goo is also going to be getting a knife together sometime as well which will have a little different use than I described, (woodwork mainly).

When doing these cutting competitions, how would you generally finish the edge? Polished or a little toothy?

Lanyards? Front style, or traditional?

Slab handle, or hidden tang?

Steel types?

A cutting comp is not the same as real world use- unless there are beer cans hanging from tree branches, it is unlikely I'll be cutting those in half. However, it seems to me these comps try to replicate heavy use in a short period of time and provides good testing. Generally, I'd be more interested in purchasing a knife from a guy who either does the comps, or spends a lot of time testing their knives in a similar manner.

And by all means, gentlemen, please feel free to post as many photos as possible;)!
 
lorien....i have seen burt's cutter in person....it is a massive beast that could cut you just looking at it wrong....you will not be disappointed with his knife.....ryan
 
And by all means, gentlemen, please feel free to post as many photos as possible;)!
Getting a lot of mileage out of this pic.
Bailey Bradshaw MS,CPM3V Comp Cutter.10" blade,15" oal,2" wide.
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Just received this Lamey yesterday,Matt says it was made 5 or 6 years ago.
8" L6 blade,Koa handle.
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Doug
 
My comp cutter is the knife on my homepage but heres another I just finished:
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1/4" O1, slight overall recurve, flat to convex in the belly, balances about an inch in front of the plunge, curved plunge for strength.

I find woods knives to be 90% chopping tools...most small tasks are reserved for smaller blades. As a result, a dropped point with a recurve and wide 2" belly seems to fit the bill. Handles should be as ergonomic as possible...no broomstick handles or the knife will twist. If for comp cutters you didn't need to stick under 2" in width, I'd probably go for a 9" blade with a 2.5+" belly recurved.
 
Kevin,
Some great looking knives you posted. :thumbup:
I was wondering if any Damascus blades were used?
Roger,
Always cool to see that beautiful Farr beast. :thumbup:

Doug
No Doug, we didn't cut with any damascus knives during that show. Of course Lin's MS test knife was damascus as they have to be.
 
Hi David,
that is a very sweet looking knife!
 
I keep coming back to Matt's cutter there. And we had a good talk today about knives and stuff.
$$$
Damn you Bladeforums!!!
 
Yes and no. I now recall that it was a two-parter in consecutive issues - I've got the one, but need to lay my mits on the other. PM me your address.

Roger
 
Yes and no. I now recall that it was a two-parter in consecutive issues - I've got the one, but need to lay my mits on the other. PM me your address.

Roger

Roger, I've got March and November of 2006. Are those the two you're looking for?
 
I have Part 1 in March, haven't grabbed the issue that has Part 2, but if you've got it in November, that must be it. I really need to organize these things. :o

Roger
 
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