Phillip Patton knife, progression thread

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Phillip is one of my heroes - you're too cool, bro!

Keep the pics coming - great thread!
 
Here are more images.

The next two images show the fitted guard.

guardfitted1.JPG


guardfitted2.JPG


Ground to shape.

profileground.JPG
 
This one shows it is with one of the "branches" ground in.

onebranch.JPG


Both branches ground in, and finished to 240 grit

twobranch.JPG


Showing the shaped guard on the blade.

guardonblade.JPG
 
Getting ready to drill the holes for the pins that will hold the guard on

drillingpinholes.JPG


Pin holes drilled.

pinholesdrilled.JPG


Chamfering the holes so the ends of the pins will expand and hold them in place

chamferingpinholes.JPG


Here the guard and blade are put into foil envelopes in preparation for heat treating

foilenvelopes.JPG
 
This is an awesome post! Can you hurry up and get some more pics up. The anticipation is killing me. What a treat, thanks ofr taking the time!!!
 
Yeah, what Big Smitty said :D

What a killer thread, like others have said, thanks for taking the time to show us !
 
This IS a great thread. I have learned quite a lot about some of the details of knifemaking.

Can't wait to see more.

Peter
 
I am interested to know whether Phillip took the guard material through an annealing cycle or just what in order to be able to work this air hardening steel after forging.
Perhaps I missed it, and apologize if this is question is redundant.

Well done, Phillip! Thanks for posting this construction thread, Keith.

Edited to add: Thanks for your back channel response, Phillip! Nicely done. Part of my intent was to illustrate that 440C would harden from forging heat and need additional effort by the maker to make it machinable, something that doesn't occur in most guard-making. I look forward to watching the progress of the build.
 
Below is Phillip's answer to fitzo's question.


What I did for the 440c was after forging, let it cool down until it became magnetic again, then I heated it up to just before magnetic and let it cool a few times, then put it in the forge to cool slowly. I let the forge cool down some first, because obviously you don't want it it get hot enough to form austenite. It's been my experience that 440c is easier to anneal using a forge than is L6.
 
While we wait for the next installment of knife photos, Phillip sent me these photos of his shop.

Power hammer.

powerhammer.JPG


Heat treating oven.

oven.JPG


Plate quencher.

platequenchsetup.JPG
 
Here are a couple more images.

This is what the blade looked like after quenching.

afterheattreat.JPG


Here Phillip has beveled the edge, getting ready to do the after-quench grinding.

establishingedge.JPG


After that, Phillip started grinding the hollows, and realized the blade was too hard, because it wore out the belt very quickly. When he had checked the hardness with his Rockwell tester, it showed the hardeness as being 60 RC when he tempered at 400 degrees, which is not what is should have been, but he decided to go with it. 500 degrees should produce 59-60 RC. He did the old file check on the edge, and it seemed harder than it ought to. Yesterday he started tempering it in increments, checking with the file, and this morning he tempered it at 500. The file still wouldn't bite, so he thinks it's ok. For some reason the area he checked with the hardness tester (under where the guard will be) was giving a false reading. It's a good reminder not to rely on just one testing method.
 
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