Photos of Prototype offer (Add your photo of your knives)

I think there are a lot of people here who are just beginning to learn about taking pictures, but that's a good thing. A few years ago we didn't have many pictures and had a lot of bad ones.

Now we have a lot of good pictures that are gradually getting better.

:)
 
Habbie is technically correct. The grey card is a pro method. As is the Ambient light meter method.

Stumps,
First thing is to go to a lumber yard/home center and get two large vinyl floor tiles. One that looks like stone. Or two piece's of neutral colored rough cloth, burlap would be great. STRETCH them over a piece's of cardboad with tape on back. Try one of those for your light box floor and as background. Maybe the background boards should only be 6 or 8 inches high if you have light from back. Angle your back board to get rid of any shadow on it. Another trick if your camera takes its light reading thru the lens is to get a white cardboard and cut a hole in it to fit your lens thru, only large enough to be handy but bigger than your camera. Then reflections won't show your dark camera. I generally use a white cloth curtain on the front of my box and only stick the lens thru and pinch the cloth together while taking the exposure.

But in the end look at viewfinder or screen, really look hard, see how the blades and bolster are showing reflections. Move it around for best reflective shade of color and shadow effect. This is the pro method also. Your eye is the camera before you trip the shutter.

300Bucks

PS A grey card is inexpensive, but you need to go to a photo store to get one, its about 5 x 7 in size. Or Internet.

Not the ultimate but just a version from recent past. Made a tripod device that attaches to box floor, so a tripod doesn't get tripped over.
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Here you can see how my cloth floor curves up in back, this is current. But I don't use backlighting.

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Here is how it looks with two piece background instead of curved. Early effort photo.
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Using the two piece method here is how you hide the crack, with something in back of your knives.
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Here is a blow up of Stumps photo, using your GOOD EYE as the camera, see the reflections in the bolsters and rivets. Is that you or something in your shop showing.......
Closeup-3.jpg


I hijacked my own thread but a specific photo issue was addressed to a forum member so I declare it OK.....HA And as BG said with the sharing of all the knowledge the photos are getting really good. I am envious of some of you.

300Bucks
 
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Just keep in mind that, regarding light, there are three factors: Aperture (how big the shutter opens) Shutter speed (how long the shutter stays open) and ISO (sensitivity of your light sensor).

You need just the right amount of light, so changing one of the three means you have to make an equal change in one of the others.

Taking pictures is all about light.

Fascinating stuff and real rewarding when you make a good picture.

:)
 
from the pictures those prototypes look really nice. i have the 300 series complete in the dymondwood scales and i love them. i would collect these if they came out as a regular series. i got the email about buying the buildouts from another member on the buck forums here, since i was never sent the email from our buck collectors folks.

thanks for the pictures everyone.
 
300Bucks said:
Here is a blow up of Stumps photo, using your GOOD EYE as the camera, see the reflections in the bolsters and rivets. Is that you or something in your shop showing.......
Closeup-3.jpg


I hijacked my own thread but a specific photo issue was addressed to a forum member so I declare it OK.....HA And as BG said with the sharing of all the knowledge the photos are getting really good. I am envious of some of you.

300Bucks
Click to expand...

Ahhh....I didn't really pay attention to that before. That is either the camera/tripod or maybe something in the garage. I'll try fixing that. I am busy today, but will keep working on this. Thanks!
 
Stumps said:
Huh??? Wow!! That sounds WAAAAAY above my pay scale!! :)

You are saying words I know nothing about....iso speed, exposure measurement, aperture.

I think I remember seeing something about a light meter on the camera. I'll have to play with it some more.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

LOL,

Above your pay grade...now that's funny. Stumps you and I need to get together and find a camera class. I don't know how to use all the cool stuff my camera can do. My camera has the auto focus and a set of 3 knives like yours it picks one clearly and the other two are out of focus? Even on one of the manual setting, it still picks one???? Oh well, it makes taking good photos a bigger challenge. I just can't take good group photos.
jb4570
 
For most knife photo questions, you don't need a camera class--just ask a question right here.

When asking questions, people should state their camera make and model so we know how to answer.

One solution to depth of field problems like the one mentioned above is to take your pictures looking straight down at a flat surface and depth of field won't be a problem.

Otherwise and in general, use a tripod and a slow shutter speed and an aperture of 5.6 or higher--that gives you more depth of field.

Telephoto will reduce your depth of field and getting very, very close to your subject will reduce your depth of field.

Most of the problems we have with knife pictures are easily solved.
 
Unfortunately I wouldn't purchase any of these even if they were on sale,for starters the delrin is rounded with no sawcut and that will make some slick handling for me,and the big blue buck logo just doesn't belong on the knife ,it says buck on the blade stamp,what would they need that ugly logo in the handle for?They should have kept the hammer/bolt logo,its what made Buck popular in the first place,and looked great on the knife,Why they added the big blue logo is beyond me,i know i'd buy a lkot more buck pocket knives as gifts if they were like the old models they used to make,even the blade snap is weak,the older model next to the new model in comparison........there is no comparison imho.

Not trying to be negative ,but they made some changes on these knives,and those who already bought and liked them no longer like the new ones,i've heard this in more than one conversation in the buck knife section art our hunting store.
 
Yes, I bought the 301s just as a novelty.

They seem solid enough, but don't quite have that old snap, tightness and feel of precision that they should.....just a slight difference, but it's there.

Maybe prototypes are that way.

And that big blue logo IS pretty awful.
 
the blue anvil buck logo is what attracted me to the dymondwood 300 series, i bought them all. i even bought a extra solitaire for me to carry around every day. i have some older boker tree brand slipjoints from the 70's and those are great, so i wanted to try out some newer slipjoints and the newer style buck slipjoints is what attracted me otherwise i may of went the case brand route instead. i never recieved the emails about the bcci buildouts and got the email from another member of this forum. otherwise i would of ordered some of these buildout slipjoints . so a email late and a dollar short and i don't have any of these buildout slipjoints. so if any of you guys don't want these after christmas season is over i'll buy them from you since you think they are such horrible knives...
 
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I don't have the 301 I ordered in hand yet so I can't be sure, but for now I agree with ya KC.... I like the look of the logo. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I ain't beheld mine...
 
The new style doesn't bother me a bit. Things change and thats what make collections interesting. If a collection only had one style and it never changes, whats the point of having more than one knife.
 
Thats right,but i'm a knife user,not a collector,and anyone i give a knife to usually plans on using it,like the ol' saying goes,they just don't make em' like they used to.
 
Not to be a wise guy, but what would you use a new 301 for, that the new shape would effect your usage. Its not like your cutting through thick brush or batoning kindeling. I'd figure that the rounded shape would make it more comfortable. The only thing I could see this knife being used for where it would be used heavily would be whittling and I still dont see the back draw.
 
Dangerous business......whittlin' with a slippery knife!!

Maybe that's why these protos stayed proto and never got promoted to type.

:)
 
I think this is a little improvement.

I did notice on the last pictures I posted in the SPS that I still have to get a couple reflections out of the bolsters. I'm a gonna keep tryin'!!! :)

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My main problem is I had some real bad nerve damage in my hands,had the carpal tunnel surgery a few years ago,but it only helped so much,so now i need to be extra carefull my grip isn't what it used to be,rounded off like those knives are,they would be no good to me,same goes for older guys with less dexterity,those knives won't help them with anything in the grip dept.
 
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