Photos! Post your CPK photos here!

Moorik said:
For the final stage, I slightly increase the angle on the sharpener, raising it by just 0.05 degrees.
Click to expand...
Nice work! The TP test is a good one. What do you sharpen with?

I am curious though, as the part I quoted above has me scratching my head.

That is a very difficult-to-achieve miniscule amount of change in angle... (0.00087" lift of the spine per inch of blade height) I'd venture to guess it's well within the error of any sharpening system. Even if you meant 1/2 degree, it's still only about a human hair per inch of blade height. Please share.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Nice work! The TP test is a good one. What do you sharpen with?

I am curious though, as the part I quoted above has me scratching my head.

That is a very difficult-to-achieve miniscule amount of change in angle... (0.00087" lift of the spine per inch of blade height) I'd venture to guess it's well within the error of any sharpening system. Even if you meant 1/2 degree, it's still only about a human hair per inch of blade height. Please share.
Click to expand...
I sharpen using a standard TSPROF sharpening machine.
Catching 0.1 degrees is extremely easy; the angle gauge literally shows it.
Achieving 0.05 degrees is also quite simple by calculating the number of turns needed on the machine to increase the angle by 0.1 degrees. I’ve gotten the hang of setting the angle to hit 0.05 degrees, ensuring I reach the cutting edge, especially on very soft stones, which work slowly. Often, when people sharpen, they fail to reach the cutting edge.

In reality, it’s not as complicated as you might think. I simply tighten the lifting mechanism, set the angle—for example, 22.5 degrees—then move to 22.6 degrees and make a few reverse turns of the lifting mechanism downward. This way, I don’t get a clean 22.5 degrees but something like 22.55 degrees. I’ve verified this with a more advanced angle gauge, and a microscope at 300x magnification also confirms that I’m hitting the cutting edge without creating a microbevel.

In text, it might seem complex, but in practice, it’s extremely simple. If you’ve sharpened enough times, you can do it easily.
P.S
The test would’ve been slightly better; I’m just not used to recording it on video, and when you test it without filming, it always turns out better.
Additionally, I didn’t wipe the cutting edge with a degreaser—it was even slightly oily after sharpening.
Plus, whenever you record a video to show “how great” something turns out, by all the laws of turning on a camera, it starts to go just a little bit worse. 😁
 
Last edited:
Damn, I don’t know which thread to specifically assign my knife sharpening and testing to.
But let it be here?

!Short Preface!
While watching videos on YouTube, I saw some debate between Nathan and some guy about DPS (degrees per side) on a knife. The guy was saying that even 20 degrees per side is supposedly too much, and such a knife can’t be a great cutter.
And, in short, I’m a fan of larger angles on knives; I always sharpen a bit higher.
Combined with the extremely durable 3V steel on the SDFK knife and my sharpening, the knife can cut through the very essence of the universe (hehe).


I know I’ve already posted about the sharpening process for the SDFK knife, but recently, I came up with something like a new idea in the context of how and with what you can sharpen a knife extremely quickly and with great efficiency.
Plus, it’s probably fun that I have the sharpest knife, with a value of 22.5 DPS?
(Extremely fun)
I apply diamond paste to a special cast iron honing plate, so it’s essentially not stropping, but a full-fledged sharpening process, just like with a whetstone, only with some of my little secrets.
Even if I just tell you what material and what paste I use, I’m 100% sure you’re unlikely to achieve the same result.
photo_2025-09-17_21-21-16.jpg

I start sharpening with 600 grit diamond paste, yes, I START with it, because the concentration of my diamond paste is over 60%, which makes it work very quickly, providing extremely good aggression and serving as an initial abrasive stage.
This is the result after 600 grit.
photo_2025-09-17_21-21-14.jpg

Compared to my previous sharpening, I think the cutting aggression here is much higher, and the sharpness is also higher (I know it’s subjective, but trust me).
The next abrasive is 5000 grit.
Probably, everyone who has ever sharpened would stereotypically say:
Jumping from 600 to 5000?! That’s ridiculous.
But, with diamond paste and the abrasive being cast iron, essentially, the diamond paste directly affects the cutting edge. It works out so that, with oil and paste, my cast iron honing plate is just a material that facilitates sharpening—the diamond paste itself does the sharpening.
And because it has a high concentration, my 5000 grit paste has a concentration of 50-70% (it’s normal for it to vary).
This greatly speeds up the sharpening process while achieving an extremely clean cutting edge. It looks like glass, frosted glass—there are no parasitic scratches, but it’s slightly matte and mirror-like. Here’s a photo:
photo_2025-09-17_21-21-17.jpg

I arrived at this method purely through experimentation. With just two abrasives and a high-concentration diamond paste, I achieve this kind of surface.

photo_2025-09-17_21-37-13.jpg

(The spots on the knife are just degreaser, because I strive to maintain 100% abrasive hygiene, wiping and cleaning the knife each time I switch to a different paste.)

The final paste is 1/0 micron; the grit of this diamond grain is somewhere around 15,000 grit, though I think it’s more like 12,000.
photo_2025-09-17_21-21-21.jpg

I completely remove the burr, and under the microscope, you can see the cleanliness of the cutting edge (the small shiny bits at the edge are just pieces of tissue; the microscope shows a 400x magnification).
Thanks to the quality of CPM3V steel with this heat treatment, you can perfectly expose the carbides (yes, they can be polished and then exposed—it’s a process involving the microscope, sharpening, and hours spent on it).
In essence, I understand that this is simply maximizing the cutting edge and this steel at 22.5 degrees per side, and I’m fascinated by exploring the advantages and limits of what the steel is capable of, not just in terms of strength but also its sharpening potential.
No matter what anyone says or what tests and studies show, an edge sharpened this way is significantly more durable. Because at lower grit values, you might get more aggression, but under a 400x-450x-500x microscope, you’ll see a micro-serrated edge.
Here, with 12,000-15,000 grit (I don’t know the exact value; it’s just a 1-micron rating, and I don’t go to 0.5 because I’ve learned to maximize 1 micron in a more interesting way, plus retaining cutting aggression), the absence of a micro-serrated edge results in a stronger and more stable edge.
I once saw a video where someone cut a hanging piece of paper with a knife using just pressure. Well, I can confidently say I can do it a bit better.


I know I’m essentially competing with myself, but achieving this level of sharpness is fun every time (this is probably my 20th time, but it’s still fun).

I use the forum and my videos as a sort of small diary of what I discover in sharpening and how I maximize this process, which, in fact, many people underestimate.
And the concept of DPS (degrees per side) seems completely STUPID to me.
Why would I use a lower DPS value per side when I can achieve this level of sharpness at 22.5 degrees per side, and my cutting edge performs like this?
In this regard, I don’t rely on anyone else’s experience AT ALL. I just test different materials, abrasives, pastes, and abrasive compounds to find, perhaps, new heights in the context of the cutting edge and what the steel is capable of.
Personally, I’m fascinated by the process of such complex sharpening (and it’s very complex). With enough skill, it takes me about an hour to an hour and a half, but in reality, I’ve spent countless hours maximizing and finding new levels of sharpness in steel that, as you can see, can be not only durable but also razor-sharp.
You could regrind the knife to make it thinner, you could adjust the bevels and DPS to lower values, or you could simply sharpen it this way, and with an EXTREMELY durable knife, it cuts like a scalpel.
((I’ve sharpened surgical scalpels, and by the way, they’re duller than my SDFK.))
An extremely glossy mirror finish that’s also matte—I assure you, no matter what you do, you won’t achieve the same edge effect.
photo_2025-09-17_21-21-22.jpg
 
Moorik said:
Damn, I don’t know which thread to specifically assign my knife sharpening and testing to.
But let it be here?

!Short Preface!
While watching videos on YouTube, I saw some debate between Nathan and some guy about DPS (degrees per side) on a knife. The guy was saying that even 20 degrees per side is supposedly too much, and such a knife can’t be a great cutter.
And, in short, I’m a fan of larger angles on knives; I always sharpen a bit higher.
Combined with the extremely durable 3V steel on the SDFK knife and my sharpening, the knife can cut through the very essence of the universe (hehe).


I know I’ve already posted about the sharpening process for the SDFK knife, but recently, I came up with something like a new idea in the context of how and with what you can sharpen a knife extremely quickly and with great efficiency.
Plus, it’s probably fun that I have the sharpest knife, with a value of 22.5 DPS?
(Extremely fun)
I apply diamond paste to a special cast iron honing plate, so it’s essentially not stropping, but a full-fledged sharpening process, just like with a whetstone, only with some of my little secrets.
Even if I just tell you what material and what paste I use, I’m 100% sure you’re unlikely to achieve the same result.
View attachment 2978584

I start sharpening with 600 grit diamond paste, yes, I START with it, because the concentration of my diamond paste is over 60%, which makes it work very quickly, providing extremely good aggression and serving as an initial abrasive stage.
This is the result after 600 grit.
View attachment 2978592

Compared to my previous sharpening, I think the cutting aggression here is much higher, and the sharpness is also higher (I know it’s subjective, but trust me).
The next abrasive is 5000 grit.
Probably, everyone who has ever sharpened would stereotypically say:
Jumping from 600 to 5000?! That’s ridiculous.
But, with diamond paste and the abrasive being cast iron, essentially, the diamond paste directly affects the cutting edge. It works out so that, with oil and paste, my cast iron honing plate is just a material that facilitates sharpening—the diamond paste itself does the sharpening.
And because it has a high concentration, my 5000 grit paste has a concentration of 50-70% (it’s normal for it to vary).
This greatly speeds up the sharpening process while achieving an extremely clean cutting edge. It looks like glass, frosted glass—there are no parasitic scratches, but it’s slightly matte and mirror-like. Here’s a photo:
View attachment 2978593

I arrived at this method purely through experimentation. With just two abrasives and a high-concentration diamond paste, I achieve this kind of surface.

View attachment 2978595

(The spots on the knife are just degreaser, because I strive to maintain 100% abrasive hygiene, wiping and cleaning the knife each time I switch to a different paste.)

The final paste is 1/0 micron; the grit of this diamond grain is somewhere around 15,000 grit, though I think it’s more like 12,000.
View attachment 2978596

I completely remove the burr, and under the microscope, you can see the cleanliness of the cutting edge (the small shiny bits at the edge are just pieces of tissue; the microscope shows a 400x magnification).
Thanks to the quality of CPM3V steel with this heat treatment, you can perfectly expose the carbides (yes, they can be polished and then exposed—it’s a process involving the microscope, sharpening, and hours spent on it).
In essence, I understand that this is simply maximizing the cutting edge and this steel at 22.5 degrees per side, and I’m fascinated by exploring the advantages and limits of what the steel is capable of, not just in terms of strength but also its sharpening potential.
No matter what anyone says or what tests and studies show, an edge sharpened this way is significantly more durable. Because at lower grit values, you might get more aggression, but under a 400x-450x-500x microscope, you’ll see a micro-serrated edge.
Here, with 12,000-15,000 grit (I don’t know the exact value; it’s just a 1-micron rating, and I don’t go to 0.5 because I’ve learned to maximize 1 micron in a more interesting way, plus retaining cutting aggression), the absence of a micro-serrated edge results in a stronger and more stable edge.
I once saw a video where someone cut a hanging piece of paper with a knife using just pressure. Well, I can confidently say I can do it a bit better.


I know I’m essentially competing with myself, but achieving this level of sharpness is fun every time (this is probably my 20th time, but it’s still fun).

I use the forum and my videos as a sort of small diary of what I discover in sharpening and how I maximize this process, which, in fact, many people underestimate.
And the concept of DPS (degrees per side) seems completely STUPID to me.
Why would I use a lower DPS value per side when I can achieve this level of sharpness at 22.5 degrees per side, and my cutting edge performs like this?
In this regard, I don’t rely on anyone else’s experience AT ALL. I just test different materials, abrasives, pastes, and abrasive compounds to find, perhaps, new heights in the context of the cutting edge and what the steel is capable of.
Personally, I’m fascinated by the process of such complex sharpening (and it’s very complex). With enough skill, it takes me about an hour to an hour and a half, but in reality, I’ve spent countless hours maximizing and finding new levels of sharpness in steel that, as you can see, can be not only durable but also razor-sharp.
You could regrind the knife to make it thinner, you could adjust the bevels and DPS to lower values, or you could simply sharpen it this way, and with an EXTREMELY durable knife, it cuts like a scalpel.
((I’ve sharpened surgical scalpels, and by the way, they’re duller than my SDFK.))
An extremely glossy mirror finish that’s also matte—I assure you, no matter what you do, you won’t achieve the same edge effect.
View attachment 2978618
Click to expand...
Very cool!

It's always fun to find the edge that works for you!

You should see if you can cut a free standing straw!

( like Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist after he sharpens comp choppers)
 
yoko said:
This is an old Pic , but I used venev stones and maybe went up to 800 grit...I can't remember

Nathan's cruwear takes a fantastic edge also!
View attachment 2978793
Click to expand...

yoko said:
This is an old Pic , but I used venev stones and maybe went up to 800 grit...I can't remember

Nathan's cruwear takes a fantastic edge also!
View attachment 2978793
Click to expand...
My straws at home are so tough that they can't be cut (some high-quality ones).
I'll find regular ones, like the ones they cut in the videos, and definitely try it. I think, in your honor, I could also find a plastic bottle of beer and chop it.
I saw on the forum that these kinds of jokes are popular, right? 😅
 
Moorik said:
My straws at home are so tough that they can't be cut (some high-quality ones).
I'll find regular ones, like the ones they cut in the videos, and definitely try it. I think, in your honor, I could also find a plastic bottle of beer and chop it.
I saw on the forum that these kinds of jokes are popular, right? 😅
Click to expand...
You have plastic beer bottles???????

(Make sure you drink the beer first lol)
 
Moorik said:
Damn, I don’t know which thread to specifically assign my knife sharpening and testing to.
But let it be here?

!Short Preface!
While watching videos on YouTube, I saw some debate between Nathan and some guy about DPS (degrees per side) on a knife. The guy was saying that even 20 degrees per side is supposedly too much, and such a knife can’t be a great cutter.
And, in short, I’m a fan of larger angles on knives; I always sharpen a bit higher.
Combined with the extremely durable 3V steel on the SDFK knife and my sharpening, the knife can cut through the very essence of the universe (hehe).


I know I’ve already posted about the sharpening process for the SDFK knife, but recently, I came up with something like a new idea in the context of how and with what you can sharpen a knife extremely quickly and with great efficiency.
Plus, it’s probably fun that I have the sharpest knife, with a value of 22.5 DPS?
(Extremely fun)
I apply diamond paste to a special cast iron honing plate, so it’s essentially not stropping, but a full-fledged sharpening process, just like with a whetstone, only with some of my little secrets.
Even if I just tell you what material and what paste I use, I’m 100% sure you’re unlikely to achieve the same result.
View attachment 2978584

I start sharpening with 600 grit diamond paste, yes, I START with it, because the concentration of my diamond paste is over 60%, which makes it work very quickly, providing extremely good aggression and serving as an initial abrasive stage.
This is the result after 600 grit.
View attachment 2978592

Compared to my previous sharpening, I think the cutting aggression here is much higher, and the sharpness is also higher (I know it’s subjective, but trust me).
The next abrasive is 5000 grit.
Probably, everyone who has ever sharpened would stereotypically say:
Jumping from 600 to 5000?! That’s ridiculous.
But, with diamond paste and the abrasive being cast iron, essentially, the diamond paste directly affects the cutting edge. It works out so that, with oil and paste, my cast iron honing plate is just a material that facilitates sharpening—the diamond paste itself does the sharpening.
And because it has a high concentration, my 5000 grit paste has a concentration of 50-70% (it’s normal for it to vary).
This greatly speeds up the sharpening process while achieving an extremely clean cutting edge. It looks like glass, frosted glass—there are no parasitic scratches, but it’s slightly matte and mirror-like. Here’s a photo:
View attachment 2978593

I arrived at this method purely through experimentation. With just two abrasives and a high-concentration diamond paste, I achieve this kind of surface.

View attachment 2978595

(The spots on the knife are just degreaser, because I strive to maintain 100% abrasive hygiene, wiping and cleaning the knife each time I switch to a different paste.)

The final paste is 1/0 micron; the grit of this diamond grain is somewhere around 15,000 grit, though I think it’s more like 12,000.
View attachment 2978596

I completely remove the burr, and under the microscope, you can see the cleanliness of the cutting edge (the small shiny bits at the edge are just pieces of tissue; the microscope shows a 400x magnification).
Thanks to the quality of CPM3V steel with this heat treatment, you can perfectly expose the carbides (yes, they can be polished and then exposed—it’s a process involving the microscope, sharpening, and hours spent on it).
In essence, I understand that this is simply maximizing the cutting edge and this steel at 22.5 degrees per side, and I’m fascinated by exploring the advantages and limits of what the steel is capable of, not just in terms of strength but also its sharpening potential.
No matter what anyone says or what tests and studies show, an edge sharpened this way is significantly more durable. Because at lower grit values, you might get more aggression, but under a 400x-450x-500x microscope, you’ll see a micro-serrated edge.
Here, with 12,000-15,000 grit (I don’t know the exact value; it’s just a 1-micron rating, and I don’t go to 0.5 because I’ve learned to maximize 1 micron in a more interesting way, plus retaining cutting aggression), the absence of a micro-serrated edge results in a stronger and more stable edge.
I once saw a video where someone cut a hanging piece of paper with a knife using just pressure. Well, I can confidently say I can do it a bit better.


I know I’m essentially competing with myself, but achieving this level of sharpness is fun every time (this is probably my 20th time, but it’s still fun).

I use the forum and my videos as a sort of small diary of what I discover in sharpening and how I maximize this process, which, in fact, many people underestimate.
And the concept of DPS (degrees per side) seems completely STUPID to me.
Why would I use a lower DPS value per side when I can achieve this level of sharpness at 22.5 degrees per side, and my cutting edge performs like this?
In this regard, I don’t rely on anyone else’s experience AT ALL. I just test different materials, abrasives, pastes, and abrasive compounds to find, perhaps, new heights in the context of the cutting edge and what the steel is capable of.
Personally, I’m fascinated by the process of such complex sharpening (and it’s very complex). With enough skill, it takes me about an hour to an hour and a half, but in reality, I’ve spent countless hours maximizing and finding new levels of sharpness in steel that, as you can see, can be not only durable but also razor-sharp.
You could regrind the knife to make it thinner, you could adjust the bevels and DPS to lower values, or you could simply sharpen it this way, and with an EXTREMELY durable knife, it cuts like a scalpel.
((I’ve sharpened surgical scalpels, and by the way, they’re duller than my SDFK.))
An extremely glossy mirror finish that’s also matte—I assure you, no matter what you do, you won’t achieve the same edge effect.
View attachment 2978618
Click to expand...

Nice work! How often/what is your process for maintaining the edge?
 
Casinostocks said:
Thanks man, CPK does thei Tri-Color scales just right. You're right, I've never seen that option on their larger knives. Can't recall exactly, but not sure if they were even offered with the HDFK all those years ago 🤔
Click to expand...
From what I've seen, tri color was only offered more recently. I believe tri-rag was offered prior to that. I could be totally wrong though, so take it with a grain of salt.
 
carnifex knifeworks said:
From what I've seen, tri color was only offered more recently. I believe tri-rag was offered prior to that. I could be totally wrong though, so take it with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...

I had a couple of FK2s with Tri-Rag scales many moons ago but my memory is quite foggy about that option and the HDFK. I think that there were some in tri-rag!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top