PIC Thread AS requested SHARP CG-FBM MOD

Sweet! Would you be interested in writing up a tutorial for that sharpening method?

I'd definately have a go if I knew what was needed in which order!
 
Or if you want a perfect edge that is thinned out. Just buy a 1x30" belt sander. It will cost about 50.00 and do a perfect job with little skill. That is how every knife is sharpened that comes out of almost every knife shop in the country. It will take five minutes to do the same job as above, then spend a couple minutes with the strop.
 
xanax said:
Or if you want a perfect edge that is thinned out. Just buy a 1x30" belt sander. It will cost about 50.00 and do a perfect job with little skill. That is how every knife is sharpened that comes out of almost every knife shop in the country. It will take five minutes to do the same job as above, then spend a couple minutes with the strop.
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yeah just don't start that learning curve on a 700 dollar Busse. The Internet is full of pictures of burnt tips and screwed up blades. The Belt sander is the way to go for sure if you have a place for it and some cheap knives to learn on.

The neat thing about doing it by hand is that it happens so slow, that by stopping and adjusting your movements to obtain your desired results, it is fool proof.

Oh yeah and there is still a element of skill and commitment involved in doing it with a belt sander.... Other wise factory knives would all be sharp. And brother.... that just ain't so.

Jim
 
There is a lot more skill in free hand sharpening (maybe not stropping) than there is in using a belt sander. I would recommend someone start with cheap knives also. Whoever sharpens Jerry's knives is using a different angle on the CG than the LE. This is obvious in the pics lately. I would guess this is because the CG model has less to grind away before you hit the CBT line, which is still a long way. Keep the knife moving and you wont burn the tip. The thinner the knife the easier to burn. The FBM isn't thin at the tip and you need 900 degrees F to mess up the temper on INFI. Also give anyone 1000 knives to sharpen and see how fast they fly through them. QC is going to be lower for that reason. I have taught people how to sharpen a knife with a belt sander and within twenty minutes they are usually pretty darn good. Better edges than most factory knives come. A flat stone takes months for most to master. Stropping your method would be fool proof but it takes to long for me.
After the belt sander you can either use a ceramic rod a stone etc. to remove the burr and then strop lightly at a lower angle. 3-4 passes on each side alternating is usually enough.
 
xanax said:
Or if you want a perfect edge that is thinned out. Just buy a 1x30" belt sander. It will cost about 50.00 and do a perfect job with little skill. That is how every knife is sharpened that comes out of almost every knife shop in the country. It will take five minutes to do the same job as above, then spend a couple minutes with the strop.
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xanax,

what kind of belt sander are you talking about? got a link? thanks :thumbup:
 
xaman said:
xanax,

what kind of belt sander are you talking about? got a link? thanks :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Mine is a cheap delta brand one. I will check it out when I get to work Monday, and get a model number off of it. I got mine from Home Depot but they have since stopped carrying them around where I live.
 
I've had good luck with the mousepad/sandpaper technique. I finish the edge off with a few strops on some cardboard (back of a desktop calendar) loaded with flexcut gold. But my edge isn't as purty as this one is!:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
I've had mediocre results with sandpaper/strop. I thin the edge out nicely and it looks like it should be sharp. It's certainly polished enough. However, I can't even shave with it when all is said and done. There must be some part of the process that I am messing up. :confused: Can't any of the sharpening zen masters make us a nice video how-to? I'd pay $5 to see it.
 
EverTheCynic said:
I've had mediocre results with sandpaper/strop. I thin the edge out nicely and it looks like it should be sharp. It's certainly polished enough. However, I can't even shave with it when all is said and done. There must be some part of the process that I am messing up. :confused: Can't any of the sharpening zen masters make us a nice video how-to? I'd pay $5 to see it.
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For me the thing is get RID OF THE MOUSE PAD. To soft and it rounds the edge. Use a flat hard leather. Enough give to follow the curve of convex edges and nott so soft as to ruin the edge.
 
Justabuyer said:
yeah just don't start that learning curve on a 700 dollar Busse. The Internet is full of pictures of burnt tips and screwed up blades. The Belt sander is the way to go for sure if you have a place for it and some cheap knives to learn on.

The neat thing about doing it by hand is that it happens so slow, that by stopping and adjusting your movements to obtain your desired results, it is fool proof.

Oh yeah and there is still a element of skill and commitment involved in doing it with a belt sander.... Other wise factory knives would all be sharp. And brother.... that just ain't so.

Jim
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Exactly what I was thinking about! Without a doubt, a belt sander is a great tool regarding re-profiling a blade / putting a convex edge on it, but unless you are very adept at it, it is very easy to ruin a knife's blade. You are also right about doing it by hand; the big advantage is that you can keep a close monitoring over the progress of your sharpening and make the necessary adjustments easily.
 
Justabuyer said:
Somebody asked to see a Thinned and convexed FBM. I got to tell you this was a butt load of work to do by hand. 3 1/2 hours. But this FBM is so much sweeter now. Ability to do work is about doubled...

With out further Diversion.... allow me to introduce the Busse Vampire killer

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Congratulations on this excellent example of hand sharpening and thank you for sharing these pictures. I do a lot of free hand sharpening using different sharpening media including water proof sandpaper and I can appreciate the amount of time you had to put to come up with this result. I am sure though that the elbow grease you had to invest in it will pay off. Besides, it is evident from the pictures that it will.
 
g_moutafis said:
Congratulations on this excellent example of hand sharpening and thank you for sharing these pictures. I do a lot of free hand sharpening using different sharpening media including water proof sandpaper and I can appreciate the amount of time you had to put to come up with this result. I am sure though that the elbow grease you had to invest in it will pay off. Besides, it is evident from the pictures that it will.
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Thanks Bro..... I can't lie its nice to get some recognition from somebody that has done it. But it is not like it is torture.... By and large I enjoy hand sharpening.
 
I chopped a little firewood with the FBM and it was as sharp when I finished as it was when I started. While reading this thread I gave it a one strop on 150-J sandpaper on top of a mouse pad and it is even sharper now. The right pressure on the mouse pad gives a proper angle to the blade edge but I admit that too much pressure can give an angle that is too severe to be useful in every application.
 
I scrapped the mousepad for a piece of hard leather. The results are outstanding. Good info here...:thumbup:
 
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