Pics added ! New to me Buck 428 /

The 186 Titan is one of the few if not the only 110 format knife that has a screw through the blade pivot. You can drop any Selector or other 110 blade in this handle. If the blade is slotted, you have to remove the 186 blade and move the pivot bushing to the slotted blade. This switch is not as fast as it would be with a Selector handle, but it is not a big deal.
The 186 can be modified into a Selector type handle, but that is another story and a new level of complication.View attachment 393560
 
Since you introduced the 425M steel subject... 425M steel is a much better edge holding steel than 420HC. DM
 
I consider it good that all the blades with mine are the 425M, though I'm not sure that the hawk bill is. Opinions on steel are like fire, it either warms you or burns you.
 
Let me ask both David and PCL a question in a round about way. PCL are you making a 425M comment about what others outside of Buck knife supporters have said about 425M or are you talking about comments you have read on it in this forum ? I myself have not heard Buck brothers being critical. Do I have my head in the sand ?

David, I am a supporter of BOS treated 425M in 300 series blades. Just so everyone can bid against me, I actively seek those models, just to have for use. I figure 5 or 6 each ought to last me 25 or so years, I am not in love with the shields but that is another story..... David or others, share with us knowledge you may have on why Buck quit using it.

300
 
Ok, I'll try. In 1980 as Buck was gearing up their new plant toward mfg. blades of the 'fine blanking' method. It was discovered that 440C eat up this tooling. Hence, they could produce more knives going to a steel such as 425M which is close to AUS8. Inclusions were noticed with this steel in the custom shop while mirror polishing. So, this was done. As demand increased another steel change was deemed in order. Thus, 420HC came on the scene. This steel offered ease of sharpening. Something Buck had heard complaints about was their blade steels were difficult to sharpen and this was a good time to address it. This could have also stemmed from folks using Arkansas stones in attempt to sharpen these wear resistant steels on. Modern, Norton stones and the advent of diamond stones has circumvented this problem. Plus, just learning how to sharpen helps. Companies make changes all the time and we can't expect trends to not be considered. I'm glad we have some choices in steels. DM
 
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I am a strong believer in 440C and have many in daily service and many more "for dress". However, I have many of the other steels in common usage and I am proud to say that Buck has supplied very high quality steel in every knife I own, and I use them and sometimes abuse them. While I prefer the old ways and days, I say that any Buck steel is fine by me.
 
Buck selector on the bay I think its got a green handle and a Ducks Unlimited version too. Whoo hoo!
 
Wow, first post. Welcome. Normally, I would not answer this as this is beyond the questions of the original poster. But this thread has died, so, I guess it doesn't matter. Still, remember Forum etiquette and if you want to know stuff beyond the original topic then start a new thread.
First I drilled off the heads of all four pins. Then ordered 4 new pins, a locking bar and spacer/spring holder. Then put it all back together with the new blade and peened the pin heads. Not a project for a first time knife modifier. DM
 
David,
First, sorry didn't intend to break the rules, but thanks for answering. I assume I could take mine to a knife smith and have this done. Any recommendations? Promise to start a new thread for any further questions. Thanks again!
 
Its just etiquette. (unwritten rules)
I think Leroy Remer at RRR knives can do it. He may be backed up. www.triplerknives.com
The slip lock blade that comes in it will Not work as it has no notch to accommodate the lock bar. So, you may have to supply a blade. I'm guessing you have some Selector blades. They will work if you get someone to weld the gap closed. (the hook on the anchor end) Then drill the hole for the pivot pin. Utilize someone with a Tig welder. Not a cracker box as these will just make a mess. Insert a copper wire into the this hole (pivot pin hole) prior to welding as the stainless weld material will not adhere to that wire. Also, be careful as the handles are Valox and old. (1987) They can crack during the process and someone would have to make you a matching pair of handles. More $$. Have them made of micarta. In the end you'll have a very cool knife with a permanent, locking blade and a additional slot for any Selector blade. Hope you enjoy it. DM
 
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