Pics of edge damage from concrete & steel

Well thanks for the sentiments, guys. Best stay away from the Practical Tactical forum, where they discuss using knives on people.

Whoa, there Poss. :rolleyes: At this point in the thread you could have only been speaking to JGD and me. It sure sounded to me like you were composing a comic narrative. In which case, "Wow... I think I'm scarred." Seemed appropriate. Sorta like seeing a 300 lb woman in spandex. If, indeed, you were making an attempt at a serious post, then excuse my statement. It sounded like a script from a Jeff Foxworthy comedy show to me. Maybe an assumption got the better of both of us...
 
I was talking to some friends about running across a nest of rats in my garage while I had a short machete in my hand. They thought it rather odd that I hacked up the half dozen rats. It took a lot of quick blade work.

Given your situation I might try something like a pair of nunchaku for the job. I made my own out of a couple pieces of steel electrical conduit connected by cable. These have speed and high impact without risk of getting dull or breaking. You could tweak the weight to be optimum given a coons weight and furr. For example you might use pipe for the flailing end instead of conduit. You can't just rely on weight when the coon is so light and you can't rely just on speed when the coon is so padded by fur.
 
I've also cornered and killed a rat with my machete. Why not, they're vermin.

I've also smacked my bowie into concrete in the exact same place. I didn't notice any sparks, but I had the exact same type of damage. My bowie is an old Soligen carbon steel version from probably the 1950s.
 
Then again, a good frog gig (sp?) might be good to get him held in place before you do the damage!
 
While we're on the subject of killing vermin with knives. I have a problem in the summer with snakes in my basement. I had one lying along the top of the block wall, so I grabbed my Ontario RTAK and cut the head off in turn chipping out the edge when it hit the block wall. I was able the smooth out the edge on the belt grinder no harm done. Block wall + knife edge = chip.
Scott
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Does a higher polish lose cutting ability on the flesh? I would be concerned about stress lines from the scratches and maybe consider a fully polished edge and then a very slightly secondary coarse edge.

Yes, the higher polishes to seem to lose a very noticeable amount of cutting ability, since you asked. Although I must point out, I don't believe it's because of the flesh, but rather because of the skin. If you can get through the tough covering of skin, the flesh beneath is practically a given. I've seen lots of tests by guys who cut up bare meat, roasts, hams, etc., and they're entirely missing the boat in my opinion. I learned this through trial and error right away with my old bowie, and even switched to an even coarser grit in the winter time when their pelts were thicker. Once I made my new bowie, I started using a finer diamond stone (maybe around 600 grit) just because it looked nicer, and then I ended up relearning that same lesson again. Here's the quote from my coon hunting page: "Afterward, I was going thru the event in my mind. I still wondered why my blade seemed to glide thru effortlessly with such a weak cut. Then it hit me. I had sharpened the knife with a coarser stone, when I couldn't find my diamond stone. I have noticed this in the past, and at one time I actually even changed stone grit with the season; using a coarser grit in the winter when their fur is thicker. I had forgotten this lesson, and have always sharpened my new Bowie with a relatively fine diamond stone, instead of the alumina oxide. (I believe the alumina is about 120 grit or so, while the diamond is more like 600 grit) Now that I've been reminded, I'll just keep using the coarse stone.
I should mention that I've never compared the coarser edge to a "scary sharp" fine edge. It would take a lot of work to get 2 1/2 FEET of edge that sharp, and it would need to be redone every time I used the knife, so I just don't bother."

(edit- I forgot this)
Usually I will leave this coarser grit on the last mm or two of the edge, and polish the upper portion of the edge better, so it blends in with the finish of the primary grind. I do this mostly to reduce drag at the junction of the primary & edge grinds, though, and to a lesser extent for aesthetics. My blade has a number of rather deep scratches on the sides from scraping against rocks in the dirt and such. These scratches worry me far more than the scratches on the edge left by sharpening, but I don't bother to completely refinish my knife after ever scratch either.


Not really, he has described doing it on a fairly regular basis in the past, breaking one knife because of it, and grinding a large amount of metal off another because of accumulation.
Yeah, this sort of thing may be "par for the course" for me, but I get the feeling he was referring to coon hunting with a knife to be unusual.

Why is it "understandable" if it happens in real use, but not if you do it to simulate it? Would it not be better to understand what your tool could do before you are actually forced to depend on it? ...Beyond this, lots of large knives while not designed to actually be used to cut rocks and metals, are designed with such impacts in mind as accidental high stress impacts. So again why would it be unreasonable to actually see if the tool can handle it by just trying it out, instead of waiting for it to happen which could risk gross failure and leave the user without the necessary tool which he depended on?
At the risk of stirring up things, there is a lot in this quote I can agree with. If I had given my old knife some real testing before it was done, I probably never would have bothered putting in all the work finishing it. I would have never chosen to use stainless steel on that old knife if I'd seen some destructive testing. (or read steel spec sheets instead of knife magazines. :rolleyes: :) ) It could have saved me a lot of grief. I was quite inconvenienced when I was without a big knife after breaking my old one; thankfully I wasn't on a life or death mission in the middle of nowhere.
 
Paddling Man-
In that context, I can understand your reply. I am serious with this thread, but now that you mention it, I can certainly see where you'd think it was one of Kliff Stump's humorous reviews. I apologize for my assumption.

Jeff Clark said:
Given your situation I might try something like a pair of nunchaku for the job. I made my own out of a couple pieces of steel electrical conduit connected by cable. These have speed and high impact without risk of getting dull or breaking. You could tweak the weight to be optimum given a coons weight and fur.

I appreciate the advice. Me and some buddies did use ballbats, sticks, pipes, and even a golf club in the past, but I eventually abandoned blunt objects due to lack of effectiveness. These critters are a lot tougher than many seem to give them credit for. It was quite regular to have a coon take more than one solid blow from a bat and keep going. Not so with the bowie. 'Course, I like knives anyway. I see hunting with one as no different than the guys who love to hunt with bows, or who specialize in black powder guns, etc.
 
the possum said:
...because of the skin.
That is interesting, I cut a lot of cured pork fat, which has a very thick and hard outer rind and a very sharp highly polish knife glides right through it, the same holds for the freshly killed pig. Maybe it has to do with the hair which is acting similar to tougher rope which can cause polished blades to just skip over the surface.

-Cliff
 
I can see the reason why you need to get rid of them, they are destructive and nasty (despite the disney image). Just curious how you do it. I would assume you go for the head? Or do you just take a swing at them to stop them and the finish them off?

Like I said, when there is reason to get rid of them, then you need to do what is required. I assume though that you finish them off as quick as possible as opposed to injuring them and letting them suffer.

Possums are a pest around here. After dark, its dificult to walk outside without almost stepping on one. I was going to start shooting them, but I am not comfortable shooting in the dark. We live in the country, but there are still a few homes around and I wont shoot without a visible picture of everything that may be in the path.

Maybe a knife would be the answer which is why I am curious as to your technique.

Pretty knife by the way.
 
the possum said:
Paddling Man-
In that context, I can understand your reply. I am serious with this thread, but now that you mention it, I can certainly see where you'd think it was one of Kliff Stump's humorous reviews. I apologize for my assumption.

No, sweat. It was damn funny, though!

Where in So Il are you? I lived in Knoxville, TN (actually, Maryville, twenty minutes from the Smoky Mtn Nat'l Park) for about 15 years before I transferred to St. Louis five years ago. I've traveled thru So Il numerous times on my way back to visit with friends and paddle whitewater kayaks on the Plateau and the Ocoee.
 
Cougar Allen said:
Some of you guys could have a look at Possum's website..
His website isn't listed in his profile or sig line. Can someone point this out, please?
 
How'd that ol' coon cookup? Did you get a good skin or hat? Did you find any babies hidden in the barn?
 
That is interesting, I cut a lot of cured pork fat, which has a very thick and hard outer rind and a very sharp highly polish knife glides right through it, the same holds for the freshly killed pig. Maybe it has to do with the hair which is acting similar to tougher rope which can cause polished blades to just skip over the surface.

Yes, I would imagine it is the fur that causes blade impediment, not the skin. Skin is easy to cut, relative to most materials, I have cut myself by accident enough times to know that.
 
The way that hair or cloth can bunch up, mold to a blade, then roll or slide with the edge can have a huge impact on hacking or slashing efficiency. Many years ago I developed a test of slashing efficiency by using bunched up cloth and doing quick slashes at it. What worked best were thin trailing-point blades with a lot of belly like skinning knives with razor sharp hollow ground edges. What also worked well were a variety of knives with a lot of belly which I sharpened with a smooth mill-bastard file. The sort of ragged peeled edges left by a file cut through bunched up terry cloth extremely well. I got the idea a couple of ways. My uncle always used a file to sharpen his broadhead arrows since they cut well and caused heavy bleeding. I also sharpened machetes and bayonets with a file and noticed that they seemed to slice better before I smoothed up the edge with a hone.

I would suggest you try a file edge. I would probably just use a machete and a file edge in your situation.
 
Interesting. I had no idea of the "rest of the story" there possum. And I would have started to suggest a short spear / still wondered why you would have used a knife until I saw the pic of your bowie - guess that thing is long enough to keep some distance...
 
Paddling_man said:
No, sweat. It was damn funny, though!

Where in So Il are you? I lived in Knoxville, TN (actually, Maryville, twenty minutes from the Smoky Mtn Nat'l Park) for about 15 years before I transferred to St. Louis five years ago. I've traveled thru So Il numerous times on my way back to visit with friends and paddle whitewater kayaks on the Plateau and the Ocoee.
Good stuff possum, I'm in Western Ky, we've all got to get together sometime.
 
The damage doesn't look too bad at all! Just my $0.02 of course. Shouldn't take too long to fix on a coarse stone
 
Another thing that you might find useful is a rubber-powered hand spear like divers sometimes use. It is pretty easy to make your own out of a broom handle, a spearhead, and some rubber surgical tubing. You pull the rubber taught and grip the spear shaft with your hand. You just release your grip to "fire" it. It is pretty accurate and very fast.
http://www.ningalooreef.com/products.asp?cat=140
 
I can't imagine chasing a raccoon around with a knife. That sure would be funny to watch. :)

I'm sympathetic with the pest-control issue of raccoons. I used to be a caretaker on a small cattle farm in Arkansas. One particular family of raccoons just would not stay out of the feed. I tried to be as humane as possible, especially considering that I have no interest in eating them and no need for the fur. I tried making the barn more coon-proof (no such thing), using better containers, and even trapping and removing the raccoons. Eventually I shot them.

If I had decided that a knife was the more humane and least destructive method, I'd of used a $5 Tremontina machete, not a beautiful custom-treated knife. :)

Best Wishes,
Bob
 
Cliff Stamp said:
That is interesting, I cut a lot of cured pork fat, which has a very thick and hard outer rind and a very sharp highly polish knife glides right through it, the same holds for the freshly killed pig. Maybe it has to do with the hair which is acting similar to tougher rope which can cause polished blades to just skip over the surface.
-Cliff
Knifetester said:
Yes, I would imagine it is the fur that causes blade impediment, not the skin. Skin is easy to cut, relative to most materials, I have cut myself by accident enough times to know that.
Jeff Clark said:
The way that hair or cloth can bunch up, mold to a blade, then roll or slide with the edge can have a huge impact on hacking or slashing efficiency... The sort of ragged peeled edges left by a file cut through bunched up terry cloth extremely well... I suggest you try a file edge.

I had a feeling my opinion on this could cause some interesting discussion.
Yeah, I have no doubt the fur plays a part in it, but I can't be sure how much since I've never encountered a bald coon. ;) But I do believe the skin itself has a lot to do with it, because I've also noticed this during thrusts, which generally slide between the hairs rather than cutting them. It's why I make such a big deal about having a slender point on my coon hunting page. I figure this just makes sense anyway- the primary function of the skin is to protect the tender bits underneath, and it does this pretty well. Sure, you can cut skin, but it's still a lot tougher than living muscle or guts, and therefore the primary thing to defeat. (bone is next, then maybe we can worry about flesh)

Specifically, Cliff, you mentioned cured pork fat. We butcher our own hogs yet, and grill up cured hams at nearly every family occasion. Just out of curiosity, are you talking about the traditional method where the skin is still left on? Either way, I'd have to agree that thin polished edges seem to work best on the cured pork I've cut up as well. Ya gotta keep in mind the difference in relative firmness of the substances we're talking about though. Cured meat itself is rather firm, (compared to the mostly water in a coon's guts or their springy ribs) or if you're cutting it on a cutting board, you have plenty of support to get through that rind. Since I often swing at critters from the side, their weight is really the only thing to provide enough resistance/support.
Jeff- You ever tried to file bainite at 56 Rc? ;) Your experiences seem to match my own. A razor sharp polished edge, or a very coarse aggressive edge both seem to work very well. Which brings us back to a point I hinted at earlier. My bowie can take hairs off my arm with moderate pressure, but it's nowhere near "razor sharp". At this sharpness level, the toothy agressive edge will work better. I don't bother to go for a "scary sharp" polished edge, because I get nicks and edge damage that need to be repaired every time I use my knife. So I'd have to start with a coarse stone to remove them, then work down through all the finer grits to polish- on an 18" double edged blade. I can get the same cutting efficiency in 3 minutes if I just leave it at the coarse grit, so I just don't bother with all the extra work.
Also, you mentioned blades with lots of sweeping belly work better. A straight edge will do the same with a "draw cut". Though of course this wouldn't be efficient with a smaller blade. I actually wrote up a test I did a while back, comparing draw cuts to straight chopping cuts. I could share it if you're interested.
 
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