PID Controlled Forge

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JTknives said:
Ya i noticed that most of the ones i found where rated in inches not psi. I do need another one as that would make it more safe. Man i cant wate this is going to be sweet when it's running. I will beable to hit the right ht temps every time.
Click to expand...

JT,

When you go to purchase your relay to switch the high end fan and solenoid valve, look for one of the miniatures they are quieter than all the rest and the prices are reasonable.
The first one I installed made me jump every time it switched.

You will find this to be a very worthwhile project.

Fred
 
Fred.Rowe said:
JT,

When you go to purchase your relay to switch the high end fan and solenoid valve, look for one of the miniatures they are quieter than all the rest and the prices are reasonable.
The first one I installed made me jump every time it switched.

You will find this to be a very worthwhile project.

Fred
Click to expand...

I thought SSR stood for Solid State Relay, meaning no moving parts. like a transistor but for switching large currents.
 
Just came across this thread after your very informative "pimp my toaster oven" posting. Thanks Stacy!

Has anyone here used a PID controller with a venturi burner based forge?

I would guess that if the regular and high settings were not too far apart that the burner itself would be able to compensate for the airflow changes reasonably well enough so as not to require a manual choke (airflow) adjustment.

I should just try the manual (no solenoid) version over the holidays - I think I'm just a trip to the hardware store away from having all the bits I need. I'll just use my PID to tell me when to open and close the HI side of the gas piping. I suppose I could give myself an electric shock to tell me when to turn on and off the hi circuit, but I think I'll pass.
 
A PID can control a venturi. This two-stage unit will also work. Just set the burner to run OK at the LOW setting, and open the HI setting until the burner is running high enough to hole the desired temp (plus some). There is no air control, but it works fine. It sure beats the heck out of the on/off control the many use with a PID and a venturi.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
A PID can control a venturi. This two-stage unit will also work. Just set the burner to run OK at the LOW setting, and open the HI setting until the burner is running high enough to hole the desired temp (plus some). There is no air control, but it works fine. It sure beats the heck out of the on/off control the many use with a PID and a venturi.
Stacy
Click to expand...

I need to check to see if I get this... (I don't mean to limit this to you, Stacy)

* Using venturi burners, it's the same set-up without 'blowers/Hi-Low fan-speed controls', as in JT's diagram?
* With multiple venturi burners, would a manifold down stream of needle valves work well or would a person need solenoid/hi-low needle valves for each burner?
* Do you see problems with an idle circuit between the regulator and the rest?

Mike
 
I don't think you would need a solenoid for each burner. I would think one solenoid that feeds all the burners for the high burn and then a line that feeds the low. so each burner would be connected to two lines of gas. one from the solenoid and the other from the main. next each gas input on the burner needs a needle valve for adjustment. so each burner will have 2 needle valves one for high and one for low. these valves then join together and enter the burner.
 
JTknives said:
I don't think you would need a solenoid for each burner. I would think one solenoid that feeds all the burners for the high burn and then a line that feeds the low. so each burner would be connected to two lines of gas. one from the solenoid and the other from the main. next each gas input on the burner needs a needle valve for adjustment. so each burner will have 2 needle valves one for high and one for low. these valves then join together and enter the burner.
Click to expand...

Got it, JT, and thank you very much...

Mike
 
JT long ago drifted off into other hobbies.

Many people have built this type of forge control system. Most get +/- 2 degree control.

The info is in the stickys.


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