Pivot Pin Visible Through Bolsters?

Wow those are great cutaways! How are the bolsters attached in the top one? I always assumed the pivot pin held them on.
 
Funny, I don't usually notice this (except on my Buck's), but after I read this thread I took a look at my Case BSA whittler, that used to open up my package from AG Russell, sure enough I could see the pin.
 
Any traditionals that don't show pins? I always thought the pins made my traditionals look ugly (and I like patina).
Might be just me.
 
I'm now looking at my Queen cattle king stockman and swear that I don't see them, even with the magnifying glass.
 
Update:
The pin was visible on the knife when new.
I did some buffing with my Dremel but all that did was shine both the pin and bolster up.
I can still see the pin.
Emailed Chris at GEC and she said it's an easy fix and send it back.
Gonna do that today.
I figure that's an expensive knife and I want it as perfect as possible.
Yes, I know nothing is perfect.
But as a reference point, my 2 other Stockmen, Case and Mooremaker, don't show the pins at all.
Lenny
 
I guess, that if one expects jewelry level quality from a production knife it's a defect. As far as a user knife goes this will not be a problem even 20 years or more down the line. There's an old adage that I have heard out in the shop that applies, although not to the OP and some others... " It's a tool not a jewel".
 
The pins show through on both of my most used knives case stockman and case trapper both from 2000. Doesn't matter to me, I assume than some rouge and buffing would make the pivots invisible again.
 
Like I said, I buffed it with a rouge filled buffing wheel on my Dremel.
It didn't become invisible.
I understand the "It's a tool not a jewel" sentiment.
But, as this is by far the most expensive slipjoint I've ever purchased, and in light of the offer by Chris at GEC,
I thought it wise to have them look at it.
Lenny
 
Even 30x series stainless pins will show up on a 416 bolster after a while.
I've even known different batches of the same type steel to show.
Polishing with Micromesh before buffing helps a lot
 
Like I said, I buffed it with a rouge filled buffing wheel on my Dremel.
It didn't become invisible.
I understand the "It's a tool not a jewel" sentiment.
But, as this is by far the most expensive slipjoint I've ever purchased, and in light of the offer by Chris at GEC,
I thought it wise to have them look at it.
Lenny

Lenny,

I'm curious about how GEC might go about fixing it. This could be an interesting tutorial/demonstration on how effectively it might be done, especially if they are using stainless pins with nickel bolsters (don't know if the are, but if so). Some 'before' and 'after' photos could be very interesting, if you're inclined to do so. In particular, I'm curious as to what level of finish (grit) is in place, both before and after, if it's possible to see/determine.
 
Sorry David, I didn't take any pix of the visible pivot pin.
I assume they'll just replace the pin, reshape the end to better match the curve of t bolster, and polish it.
 
Sorry David, I didn't take any pix of the visible pivot pin.
I assume they'll just replace the pin, reshape the end to better match the curve of t bolster, and polish it.

That's OK. Hope it works out to your satisfaction.

So you're noticing some of the pin standing proud of the bolster? I guess I'd assumed it was flush, but just too-readily seen. If it's standing a bit proud, I can see the dissatisfaction in that, with a new knife.
 
Sorry David, I didn't take any pix of the visible pivot pin.
I assume they'll just replace the pin, reshape the end to better match the curve of t bolster, and polish it.

Wow, I thought the pin was below the bolster or just flush. Yup, I'd send it back too. That one got past the QC department. Sorry about the tool not a jewel comment, however it does apply in some cases not this one. Enjoy your repaired or new knife.
 
Thanks for the support guys.
Even though after I Dremeled it everyting smoothed out, I could feel a gap between the bolster and pin
with my finger nail.
Kinda hard to explain.
I'll let you know when it comes back.
Lenny
 
Here's the answer to Josh's question and FYI others.

Exploded view of Schrade cut-away, Swinden Key bolster. Bolsters riveted from inside to liner. I 'think' they are cast into the bolster to go thru liner on assembly....

I really like these old knives, but you just can't bear down whittling lots of vampire heart stakes and not have them loosen up a little. Be regular and you should be OK.....

300Bucks

Explodedview.jpg
 
Lenny, what they'll likely do is re-glaze the bolster to even things up and get below the pin gap, or if that doesn't work they'll likely re-hammer the pin, then re-glaze and buff. It's pretty unlikely that they'll have to remove the pin altogether as that would require a complete disassembly of the knife. Pin shows are pretty common, sometimes just the slightest torque will have them appear. There's VERY little peined material between the pin and bolster that keeps the pin "hidden", what's actually holding the pin in place is a flaired head in the countersunk bolster. Now if the pin is pulled lower than the bolster and you have blade wobble, that's another story; either someone used the blade as a screwdriver or prybar or someone got a little rambunctious during glazing and took the head of the pin off.

VERY cool pics 300 Bucks!

Eric
 
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Hi guys!

Well, sometimes the pivot pin is visible. I had realized it on my well worn and used #66 Serpentine Jack. When I got the knife, there were no pivot pins visible. But after carrying it for some months, the pivot pins are visible. I think that depends also on, how the often the knife is used. I carried mine a lot. So think, sweat and some other things made the pin visible.

For sure, on the 300 series by Buck I had realized visible pivot pins. The same on some Case knives.

The only knife I havent seen it, though I carried the knife a lot, were the stainless bolsters and pins at the Otter Ankermesser.

Kind regards
Andi
 
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