(Plate Quenching) I've decided to cross over

indian george said:
Listen !!! I never told anyone how you put the Pantyhose over your head and then applied the war paint. :confused: PS: That was used pantyhose. :barf:
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If one is going to wear pantyhose on their head, why oh why would you want anything BUT used ones, eh?? ;)
 
fitzo said:
If one is going to wear pantyhose on their head, why oh why would you want anything BUT used ones, eh?? ;)
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mike that would depend if IG wore them first or not??
you're getting that picture an't you? :eek: :)
I hope you sleep well tonight and I didn't give you nightmares of the vistion :p
 
:barf: :barf: :barf: :barf: Man, am I glad i didn't have supper yet, Dan! Thanks! :D

I thought you said he was into fishnets? :eek:
 
fitzo said:
:barf: :barf: :barf: :barf: Man, am I glad i didn't have supper yet, Dan! Thanks! :D

I thought you said he was into fishnets? :eek:
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he needs something to keep the hair from poking through the Net doesn't he. :confused: :barf: :D
 
I hate to hijack this thing :D but Big John: I'd like to have a couple about 12 X 6 X 1 inch thick. If you got and willing to sell please email what you got and how much. Thanks. NOW back to lady's wear :) .

RL
 
rlinger said:
I hate to hijack this thing :D but Big John: I'd like to have about 12 X 12 X 1 inch thick. If you got and willing to sell please email what you got and how much. Thanks. NOW back to lady's wear :) .

RL
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hijack? Oh no Roger ... it's the new service,,
it's just intermission until you get back to the topic :D :D.


Brought to you by the makers of,,,,, IG ware :p
 
rlinger said:
Personally I prefer the shears.
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Are they called Beverly, by any chance?

I managed to pick a chunk of 1" Al 12"x12" on EBay a while ago, intending to use it as quench plates. Yet another project in the pipeline...

Peter
 
jhiggins said:
Roger and Kit:

Is it safe to assume that all air-quenching steels, as well as the stainless steels can be effectively quenched using the plate technique?
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So yes or no? With all the grab-assing being done, nobody wants to answer me! WAAAAAAAA!!!! :barf:
 
Kit Carson said:
Jeff,
Yes, at least for the steels I use.
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Still tempering the normal way also? Does the Aluminum plate quenching actually change the rate of quenching? I've seen Peter Atwood do this, but never really done it myself. I know one thing: I'd want to have at least a 4"x12"x1" pair of plates. Bringing a piece of steel down from 1500+ degrees is a lot of heat to dissipate - especially when dealing with 3/16" stock, and longer blades. Sure, the aluminum soaks it in quite rapidly, but it has to have a place to go. More mass=more heat dissipation.

Doh, I'm editing this for a correction. Peter Atwood was quenching S30V between teh two steel jaws of a woodworking vise, sans aluminum plates. Kelly Carlson and I visited him a while back, and I suggested he uses a couple aluminum plates to absorb the heat better. Kelly then commented that Howard Hitchmough does the same (HH lives up by me too). I think Peter uses aluminum plates now. Please holler if you are out there, Peter. :)
 
jhiggins said:
So yes or no? With all the grab-assing being done, nobody wants to answer me! WAAAAAAAA!!!! :barf:
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Jeff, I use heavy steel plates, a la Don Robinson. I have had excellent results with 440C, ATS-34 and D2. I also shoot compressed air between the plates to make the quench even faster and always quench with the foil on the steel.
 
jhiggins said:
Still tempering the normal way also? Does the Aluminum plate quenching actually change the rate of quenching? I've seen Peter Atwood do this, but never really done it myself. I know one thing: I'd want to have at least a 4"x12"x1" pair of plates. Bringing a piece of steel down from 1500+ degrees is a lot of heat to dissipate - especially when dealing with 3/16" stock, and longer blades. Sure, the aluminum soaks it in quite rapidly, but it has to have a place to go. More mass=more heat dissipation.

Doh, I'm editing this for a correction. Peter Atwood was quenching S30V between teh two steel jaws of a woodworking vise, sans aluminum plates. Kelly Carlson and I visited him a while back, and I suggested he uses a couple aluminum plates to absorb the heat better. Kelly then commented that Howard Hitchmough does the same (HH lives up by me too). I think Peter uses aluminum plates now. Please holler if you are out there, Peter. :)
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the idea is to get below the nose fast then you're good to go .
I'm thinking I wouldn't want it to cool from that point very very fast ,,, warp wize,, if you know what I mean
but the 1" seams to do the job just about right.
mine is 2" wide and I will cool them before the next press.
 
Thermal conductivity - Iron -.18, Aluminum - .53 . Interesting that you are quenching from a temperature well above the melting point of aluminum [~1000F]!!! The quench rate is definitely faster with aluminum. This will work for any air hardening steel. 1" should be enough. Definitely leave the foil on.It saves lots of fumbling and oxide forming while air gets to the hot steel. Clamping is done to insure no insulating gaps between plate/foil/blade. [like uniform -no warp]
 
I use a pair of 8" X 16" X 3/4" plates of 6160 aircraft aluminum. The will quench bowie size S30V blades and only get mildly warm. I just quench one at a time.

I just lean hard on the plates-a load of close to 200 lbs. They quench before you could get clamps on them. The heat goes out of the blades very fast.

With A2, coated with turco so that you can seen the blade as you get it in the plates, the edge starts turning dark before you can get the top plate down on it.

I have never had a blade warp in a plate quench.
 
Melting point of aluminum .... I did the "Put a paper cup with water on the hot coals for a camp fire trick." Sure enough the water boils before the cup burns.

Likewise quenching a single blade with 1" x 6" x 12" aluminum blocks I can press on the blocks bare handed. You can feel the aluminum absorb the heat, but it's not so hot as you can't touch it.

Doing several blades or a big 3/16" job it might get too hot to hold. I've done a half dozen blades in one sitting. But if they get too hot, just get bigger blocks.

Steve
 
does this work for complicated grinds? or even a full flat grind? (1/4" to zero)
 
Daniel Koster said:
does this work for complicated grinds? or even a full flat grind? (1/4" to zero)
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I think this woudl work best on unground blades. Many makers do the grind after HT anyway. Some say the feel is better. I've done it both ways, and for me, I know I will definitely pay much more attention to getting the grind right if I have gone through all the trouble of profiling it and HTing it already. If there is ever a chance to bugger it up, it's during the grind, agreed? :p
 
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