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Please Help Me Get My HT Oven Working!!!
- Thread starter bigern26
- Start date
Should work fine. Just remember your running a 13amp load almost continous duty (3hrs or more) and one thing that should NEVER get hot is the plug strip! lol I just see alot of cheap plug strips that are meant for light duty at best fail. Just keep a eye or hand on it occasionally checking to make sure the plug strip is not getting warm and you should be fine!
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2008
- Messages
- 437
Ernie,
Sorry to bail on your thread like that but got short notice my father-in-law was having heart surgery so I've been gone for awhile.
Looks like these guys got you hooked up with wiring the oven, FANTASTIC !
The offer does still stand for the pics of the thermocouple mounting. If you need them just holler and I'll get some up for ya
Take care, Josh
Sorry to bail on your thread like that but got short notice my father-in-law was having heart surgery so I've been gone for awhile.
Looks like these guys got you hooked up with wiring the oven, FANTASTIC !
The offer does still stand for the pics of the thermocouple mounting. If you need them just holler and I'll get some up for ya
Take care, Josh
Josh, pics would be great, also looking for pics of the element hook up.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2008
- Messages
- 437
Here's some pics to show how the ceramic thermoucouple mount works.
These pics are of the mount on my forge.
The mount get's 3 holes drilled in a straight line. 2 outside holes are for the mounting screws that are drilled and tapped 8-32 (IIRC) The center hole will allow the thermocouple with ceramic insulators on to pass through the forge body.
Here's a shot of the one on the Evenheat
The thermocouple can be trimmed to whatever length you want. Use enough of the ceramic insulators to give you the desired length from the mounting block to where you want the tip of the thermocouple to be located inside the oven chamber and take the rest of the insulators off.
Here's a side shot so you can see how the thermocouple wires pass through the center two spots on the mounting block. I left them a little long instead of trimming them down to match the mounting plate.
Here you can see how the tip of the thermocouple sticks out inside the forge. Most of the ceramic insulator is covered in satanite but only the tip part reads the temp.
To mount drill and tap your holes then get the thermocouple to the desired length and connect it to the mounting block. put the thermo through the center hole and put the mounting screws in.
Connect the wires to your PID and your good to go.
Sorry I cant help you out with the element connection as my use here is for a forge instead of an oven.
Take care- Josh
These pics are of the mount on my forge.
The mount get's 3 holes drilled in a straight line. 2 outside holes are for the mounting screws that are drilled and tapped 8-32 (IIRC) The center hole will allow the thermocouple with ceramic insulators on to pass through the forge body.
Here's a shot of the one on the Evenheat
The thermocouple can be trimmed to whatever length you want. Use enough of the ceramic insulators to give you the desired length from the mounting block to where you want the tip of the thermocouple to be located inside the oven chamber and take the rest of the insulators off.
Here's a side shot so you can see how the thermocouple wires pass through the center two spots on the mounting block. I left them a little long instead of trimming them down to match the mounting plate.
Here you can see how the tip of the thermocouple sticks out inside the forge. Most of the ceramic insulator is covered in satanite but only the tip part reads the temp.
To mount drill and tap your holes then get the thermocouple to the desired length and connect it to the mounting block. put the thermo through the center hole and put the mounting screws in.
Connect the wires to your PID and your good to go.
Sorry I cant help you out with the element connection as my use here is for a forge instead of an oven.
Take care- Josh